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440 intake

krowbar

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I'm in the process of replacing the valley pan gasket. I have a high rise Torker intake. the pan
felpro#ms96000 didn't come with any heat crossover block off. do I even need that? do I need to put a thin coat of silicone around the intake ports on the pan? I'm looking for some installation tips from you pros. sorry I'm a Mopar newbie.
 
Its not necessary to block off the heat riser. The Torker intake your using doesn't have a heat crossover on it. I feel that blocking it off is a good idea to keep heat off the intake which could lead to vapor lock and other fuel related issues.
The Felpro gasket 1215 has the heat riser block off in the gasket already. In the past I've had a gasket that came with two pieces of stainless that you trimmed to fit the heat riser. They were siliconed in place before the intake was bolted on. It wasn't a very good design in my mind. Have also heard of guys stuffing tin foil in the heat riser too.
To seal the intake I use gasket schellac like Permetex Indian head. Maybe others will chime in with what they use.
 
I use black RTV between the valley pan and the heads/block. I run a bead along the full length of the heads just below the ports and around the ports themselves, then the front and back of the block. I then use Hylomar or Permatex high tack around the ports on the intake. The RTV seals the valley pan against oil leaks and the Hylomar or high tack lets me remove the intake easily without disturbing the valley pan. I like to swap intakes from time to time.
 
Its not necessary to block off the heat riser. The Torker intake your using doesn't have a heat crossover on it. I feel that blocking it off is a good idea to keep heat off the intake which could lead to vapor lock and other fuel related issues.
The Felpro gasket 1215 has the heat riser block off in the gasket already. In the past I've had a gasket that came with two pieces of stainless that you trimmed to fit the heat riser. They were siliconed in place before the intake was bolted on. It wasn't a very good design in my mind. Have also heard of guys stuffing tin foil in the heat riser too.
To seal the intake I use gasket schellac like Permetex Indian head. Maybe others will chime in with what they use.
WRONG. This torker has the crossover.I had to get the #1215 gasket with the blockoff and fiber gaskets. I'm gonna use the sandwich setup with the fiber gaskets just because that's how it was when I pulled off the intake.
 
hay Krowbar I always use the six pack gaskets and block off heat crossover. Bob
 
Well....I got the old valley pan off. it was trashed, surface rust on top creeping through to the inside. I use the gaskets supplied and put gasket sealer on them. then I put silicone in the corners and along the front and back of the block. what a pain in the ***!! I had to stand on top of the intake to line up the bolts. luckily I had the hood off. then I was going to put the carb back on, but the holes in the new base plate I bought for it are smaller than the old one. now I have to ream out the holes in the new base plate. I hope this b**** doesn't leak.
 
The reason you had a tough time getting the intake on (I'm surprised you were able to get it on) is the extra paper gaskets. I have never used them - only a thin coat of sealer around the ports and goop the corners and along the end rails. Done deal. I have no idea why they even sell the paper gaskets with a valley pan.
 
The paper gaskets will usually make it harder to get the intake aligned and it's even worse if the heads have been milled....
 
The only reason I use the papers gaskets is because that's how it was when I took the old valley pan off. the guy I bought the car from built the motor so I don't know exactly what he had done to it. I wanted to keep it the same.
 
Aluminum expands at a different rate than cast iron so maybe that's the reason he used the paper gaskets? Most don't even think about that. You cannot use a steel shim gasket on the heads but it's not so bad on the intake. I've used valley pans that had a clear plastic like coating on them in the past and those are what I usually use without any sealers except for in the corners....
 
Seems like I remember the last one that was coated was a Victor. Does this engine have the composition head gaskets or the factory style steel shim gaskets. If it has the composition head gaskets, the way you did the intake should work well but it sounds like the engine doesn't have the steels...unless it has the comps and the heads have been milled. I've seen people cut off the port openings and use one paper gasket with the pan going just under the edge of the papers...
 
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