440 Pistons in 383

[Diodedog]

I built plenty of .070" 383s for budget customers using standard 72 style 440 pistons, never a problem with the blocks, I shim the boring bar if the wear is a bit high in one corner. The pistons are about 30 grams heavier and if you're on a low budget the pins can be shortened by grinding them down on a basic bench grinder to remove the 30 grams or an aftermarket pin used, I think Trend make a set about 190 grams for a decent price, the stock ones are about 225 grams.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

Your first option should be to do the minimum needed, first .040 then .060.
I would not be afraid of the 440 piston swap in a street motor, but it is likely the final frontier for your block. We had a 69 383 that had a scored cylinder and was already .060. So we went .070 and sleeved one hole with the 72 and later 440 piston. We cut valve reliefs in the pistons and got the weight closer to stock 383 weight, Diodedog is correct on the weight difference.
The only way I would consider building a block as rusty as the one in the picture is if it's original to your car. I would be very concerned about the lifter bores.
Engine is in our 65 dart, but it was a big project, still not running yet...so can't say how well the 440 pistons in a 383 works...

 

[Carcinogen]

Cost of new pistons is not much compared to time and money spent on labor and machine work.

I’d also look for another block, more complete and rust free. Would spend a lot of time and money chasing down all the bolts and hardware needed (unless you already have extra on hand).

 

[Archie Duiker]

Hi all,
I found a good deal on a 1967 383 block close by, but it's already bored .030 over and the cylinders are pitted a bit and probably will need another .030. Do you think the block could handle another hundredth over that to get it to 4.32, and would I then be able to use standard bore 440 pistons in it? Or should I just forget about it since it's already so bored out. The only other 383 block I can find close by for a good price right now is $50 more, surface rusty pretty much everywhere, but standard bore (and it's a further drive, which does play into it a bit more with gas prices today).
Thanks,
Zack

I think going with the standard bore 383 is a no brainer. .060 over is stretching it, and you don't have room for an overbore if it is ever needed in the future. You won't regret spending a bit more to start with a solid block now.

 

[Butch Harley]

S & J engines in Washington long or short block done!! good prices I have one 9 years old