440 Short block complete. Any words of advice?

[Sonny]

I decided to let my machine shop assemble the short block (KB pistons, crank, cam bearings, rings and bearings, freeze plugs). I will assemble the heads, cam, pumps, etc.

Build: ‘78 440 with .030 bore, stock 452 heads, Kieth Black 9:1 pistons, stock intake, thermoquad, comp cams XE268H, hp manifolds.

I have the “how to build a 440” book but it leaves out some details. Here are my questions:

-are all the head bolts blind (no sealant on threads)?
-what thread sealant for water pump housing bolts?
-any hidden oil galley plugs?
-which side of head gaskets go up? Add spray adhesive the book says...which one?
-cam button needed? Using hydraulic flat tappet cam with 1 bolt double timing chain.
Any other tips appreciated!
Sonny

 

[zyzzyx]

All the head bolt holes are in fact, "blind". No surprises!
I like using Loctite 515 gasket eliminator. Excellent product.
Back of the block. That's all. Don't forget the fuel pump actuator rod even if you're using an electric pump. (oil leak)
Gasket should be marked. If not, it doesn't matter. Make sure all the coolant holes line up!!!
Because the 440's oil pump and distributor get their rotational force from the camshaft, you DON'T need a cam button.
I have read a lot lately about guys building engines and how their fit and install a cam button on a 440.
If you don't believe me, just look at the engine before you put it together and pay attention to where the fuel
pump actuator rod sits on the cam. If the cam were to move forward an eighth of an inch, it would wipe-out
the first cam lobe. Never happened! Not even on de-celebration. The bevel gear that's on the cam and the
intermediate shaft are cut in a direction that keeps the cam thrusted up against the front of the block.
Again, if you don't believe me, check the direction of rotation and see for yourself. The distributor and the
oil pump are always trying to slow down the camshaft, so there's always a load on it.
The 1-bolt cam and sprocket are fine for street driving, it's just the old design. Racers would want to
change to the three-bolt design. Take the NEW oil pump apart and clean it good before you put it
on. Who knows what's inside! Sounds like your having fun now!!!

 

[493 Mike]

I decided to let my machine shop assemble the short block (KB pistons, crank, cam bearings, rings and bearings, freeze plugs). I will assemble the heads, cam, pumps, etc.

Build: ‘78 440 with .030 bore, stock 452 heads, Kieth Black 9:1 pistons, stock intake, thermoquad, comp cams XE268H, hp manifolds.

I have the “how to build a 440” book but it leaves out some details. Here are my questions:

-are all the head bolts blind (no sealant on threads)? Sealant not required.
-what thread sealant for water pump housing bolts? Permatex #2 or silicone.
-any hidden oil galley plugs? No
-which side of head gaskets go up? Which gasket are you using? I put steel shim style with the bead up. Composition style-gasket set should have some instruction. Add spray adhesive the book says...which one? I recommend dry installation.
-cam button needed? No. Using hydraulic flat tappet cam with 1 bolt double timing chain.
Any other tips appreciated! Prelube before starting. Break in cam properly. Make sure your chosen oil has enough ZZDP.
Sonny

 

[Sonny]

Thanks. Using felpro head gaskets. Nothing fancy.

 

[Don Frelier]

A couple tips:
1. Clean the head bolts and run a tap in the holes in the block.
2. I put light oil on the bolts, use the torque sequence pattern.
3. Do the last 10 ft*lbs in 5 lb increments and check again after the final torque.
It's recommended to recheck the torque after some heat cycles, no-one ever does.
But it sure would not hurt.
Sounds like a fun project.

 

[66Satellite47]

The head bolts just need oil
Standard sequence, let sit several days. If you can re-torque after a warm up.
Fel Pro teflon gaskets don't use sealer, only steel shim use it.
I only used cam buttons with big cam/valve springs
If you look you see the plugs

 

[Sonny]

Thanks guys. Picking up the block tomorrow weather permitting.

 

[moper]

-are all the head bolts blind (no sealant on threads)? Yes - no sealant. I use 30W oil on them, torque in 3 steps.
-what thread sealant for water pump housing bolts? I use liquid teflon
-any hidden oil galley plugs? No hidden ones. You just have to look for them. Timing chain area, and rear of block.
-which side of head gaskets go up? Add spray adhesive the book says...which one? Either side. They are non-directional. No adhesive unless they are copper or MLS. Some use on steel shim too, I don't.
-cam button needed? Using hydraulic flat tappet cam with 1 bolt double timing chain. No.
Any other tips appreciated!
Sonny

 

[5.7 hemi]

Why in the world would you use the fuel pump rod if your gonna go electric fuel pump? There’s no reason for it.

 

[zyzzyx]

If I'm not mistaken, the actuator rod seals off an oil galley in the block. Without it,
oil poursout of the hole from the lifter galley and you have no oil pressure. I'll
double-check this though.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Uh, no. I’m not running the fuel pump rod in my 470 that is efi.

 

[dryheat]

Are these the KB Hypereutectic aluminum pistons? Validate that your machine shop properly adjusted the ring end gap on the top piston ring or bad things may happen.

 

[66Satellite47]

If I'm not mistaken, the actuator rod seals off an oil galley in the block. Without it,
oil poursout of the hole from the lifter galley and you have no oil pressure. I'll
double-check this though.

No, never used the rod on any of my electric fuel pump motors. Not at all connected to the oil system. Just need to use the plug on the outside of the block.

 

[zyzzyx]

Yeah, sounds like you are correct! Can't find anything that says otherwise. Sorry for the bad info!
There is a plug just under the cam on the front of the engine that needs to be put in.
Thanks for correcting me guys.
Maybe I'm thinking of a Ferd or Chebby! I Dunow!

 

[wyrmrider]

x2 ondouble checking the ring gap

 

[Challenger340]

x2 ondouble checking the ring gap

BUMP !
Really good advice here !

If the Machine Shop didn't supply a spec sheet telling you what the Top Ring Endgap is on the KB Hyper's ? ..... STOP and find out !

 

[Sonny]

x2 ondouble checking the ring gap

I called and confirmed they did.
Thanks!

 

[dryheat]

Not that I don't trust their word ... but what did they tell you they set if to? On normally aspirated street engine .0065" x bore will give you the gap necessary. Should be at or near .028.