I know there's some other threads about these but I didn't want to hijack their thread but anyways.... I'm currently pulling a 440 to build for my Satellite and rather than put a few hundred in my stock heads I was looking at the Stealth heads for $1,000 shipped. Are thy worth the money or shouldn't I just build my current heads till I can save a couple grand and buy a better set? Thanks,
440 source stealth heads
- Thread starter Deaken
- Start date
I am not an expert but what kind of build are you planning and what is the budget? If big horsepower is a goal and you can swing it everyone seems to love the the new Trickflows.
I built my 440 using the Stealths because price was a concern. You still need to have them checked out and if using a bigger than stock cam, new springs and keepers. I am happy with my set, deck checked out, installed spring height were all very close and valve job was acceptable . I cleaned the pockets up a bit, relieved the pushrod tunnels and they are good to go.
I am running 10.4:1 on pump gas with no pinging or detonation, with .040" quench.
I built my 440 using the Stealths because price was a concern. You still need to have them checked out and if using a bigger than stock cam, new springs and keepers. I am happy with my set, deck checked out, installed spring height were all very close and valve job was acceptable . I cleaned the pockets up a bit, relieved the pushrod tunnels and they are good to go.
I am running 10.4:1 on pump gas with no pinging or detonation, with .040" quench.
Mike67
Well-Known Member
For just a little bit more you could have the eddys. Depending on your build (cr) Summit has the 75cc E-streets for $1089 assembled.
But if I was going to buy a cheaper head I would probably buy the Sidewinders from Todd over at Marsh Perf. You can choose the valves and springs as he will build them as you want.
But if I was going to buy a cheaper head I would probably buy the Sidewinders from Todd over at Marsh Perf. You can choose the valves and springs as he will build them as you want.
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Call them and see if they worked out the early problems. I got mine about 10 years ago. First was told to change the retainers and keepers.Then as more were commenting about other problems I had a head shop check them out. Ordered up a set of Comp cams retainers and 10* keepers.The shop said the guides were good but felt the valve and seat margins were a bit thin for their liking. They clean it up with a 3 angle valve job. Valve springs were right for the 440 Source recommended Comp cam with a .564 lift and heights were set. Also the surfaces were nice and straight and no milling was needed.Still sitting in the box waiting for the right short block to come along.
Assuming the bottom end is good it will just get a hone, new pistons, gaskets and seals. Looking at the Mutha Thumpr cam (purely for sound) outside of that my research is just now starting on BB motors. Realistically I'd like to keep the motor under 3k from carb to oil pan.
I believe it says the retainers and keepers are Comp Cam pieces now, but still state to swap them with higher than stock lift. Springs are good for s stock build.
lewtot184
Well-Known Member
I would look into the sidewinders too.
XCELLR8
Well-Known Member
I would like to know what the final price would be after all the finishing parts are installed. I like what I have read so far.
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XCELLR8
Well-Known Member
I have the smallest Thumpr cam in my stock bottom end 400 and it sounds like a dragster. It is too radical and I'm thinking about a smaller cam. For a cam that states it works with mostly stock parts, it's a lot more than you would expect.
Mike67
Well-Known Member
When I checked into them a little over a year ago,I asked for upgraded Comp .600 rated springs, locks & retainers, some mild pocket porting I think it was in the $1400 range. I don't remember if that included upgraded valves.
The biggest benefit I saw in it was that Todd told me that these would be truly ready to run as they come out of his machine shop set up. No need to take them elsewhere.
Give him a call, he's a very informative and super nice guy. There are a lot of details I've left out from our convo.
So I guess you wouldn't recommend it? Is it just to loud? To hard to crank when it's cold? What's the pros and cons? I've only watched a video on it and liked how it sounded.
Sweet5ltr
Well-Known Member
$3,000 from carb to pan
My opinion, purchase the best heads you can afford. Trickflow or Edelbrock. Couldn't imagine investing $1,000 in a pair of inferior Chinese cylinder heads that rarely flow anywhere near advertised.
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp...ting-flow-charts/#mopp-1205-440source-stock-1
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp...esting-flow-charts/#mopp-1205-edelbrock-stock
Not only that, but the 440 source heads may require additional clearance for 3/8" push rods; even with 1.5RR. You'll have $1,400+ into these heads to make them right. I'm not saying they can't become a decent cylinder head with additional labor/prep work, I'm just stating, don't purchase them believing you'll be saving money over their competitors. You always get what you pay for.
Second, purchase the best damper available.
Third, ARP bolts for all critical components.
Forth, a reasonable indicator of lope is by reviewing the amount of overlap the camshaft develops. Big Mutha' Thumpr' has nearly 90* overlap. The .590 MP solid-lifter has 100* overlap for comparison. Both have slower ramp-rates. If you're purchasing this series solely based on sound, just go with the Big Mutha' Thumpr' and skip the rest. You will love the sound. I drove the .590 MP on the street for years, absolutely no issues.
Fifth, invest in quality valve train components. Comp, Harland Sharp, Smith Brothers Pushrods, etc.
I assume 3k is unavailable? The thing is I'm not trying to build a 10 sec car. I know I can't afford too and even if I wanted to it would be with something drastically lighter. That being said... I do want a reliable car that sounds great, it's sole purpose will be to use as a weekend car and maybe a crusie in. IF it makes a pass at the track it will be because I went and got board watching. I'm still debating if it'd be better to just build my stock heads or if it's worth investing in some aluminum heads. From what I've been told the factory heads flow good and once there off I'm gonna ask the guy at the machine shop what he thinks or the cost to make them right. If that number is to high then I'd rather spend a little extra and get a set of aluminum heads.$3,000 from carb to pan
My opinion, purchase the best heads you can afford. Trickflow or Edelbrock. Couldn't imagine investing $1,000 in a pair of inferior Chinese cylinder heads that rarely flow anywhere near advertised.
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp...ting-flow-charts/#mopp-1205-440source-stock-1
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp...esting-flow-charts/#mopp-1205-edelbrock-stock
Not only that, but the 440 source heads may require additional clearance for 3/8" push rods; even with 1.5RR. You'll have $1,400+ into these heads to make them right. I'm not saying they can't become a decent cylinder head with additional labor/prep work, I'm just stating, don't purchase them believing you'll be saving money over their competitors. You always get what you pay for.
Second, purchase the best damper available.
Third, ARP bolts for all critical components.
Forth, a reasonable indicator of lope is by reviewing the amount of overlap the camshaft develops. Big Mutha' Thumpr' has nearly 90* overlap. The .590 MP solid-lifter has 100* overlap for comparison. Both have slower ramp-rates. If you're purchasing this series solely based on sound, just go with the Big Mutha' Thumpr' and skip the rest. You will love the sound. I drove the .590 MP on the street for years, absolutely no issues.
Fifth, invest in quality valve train components. Comp, Harland Sharp, Smith Brothers Pushrods, etc.
Mike67
Well-Known Member
I don't think there is anyway you could come close, dollar for dollar, for the trade off a stock head vs aluminum. Not to mention losing 40lbs off the nose.
$3K is pretty light...Im a cheap bastard and am always looking for a deal that meets my needs...Im not really cheap but all my funds are from extracurricular activities, side jobs, buying /selling.
Anyways I've bought a lot of parts to build my motor. Most of my stuff is second hand, low use parts and for everything I have motor wise is about $5k invested, well actually about 6500, top to bottom, I just bout an efi kit. What I'm getting at is there are deals if you're patient. My full assemble RPM heads w rockers cost me $800. I've seen others new going for 1k, another member here sold new TFs for 1200 IIRC...
$3K is pretty light...Im a cheap bastard and am always looking for a deal that meets my needs...Im not really cheap but all my funds are from extracurricular activities, side jobs, buying /selling.
Anyways I've bought a lot of parts to build my motor. Most of my stuff is second hand, low use parts and for everything I have motor wise is about $5k invested, well actually about 6500, top to bottom, I just bout an efi kit. What I'm getting at is there are deals if you're patient. My full assemble RPM heads w rockers cost me $800. I've seen others new going for 1k, another member here sold new TFs for 1200 IIRC...
Mike67
Well-Known Member
Lol! Neither do I... Thats why its taken a lot of trading, selling. & work and over 2 years to collect a pile of parts. I can't just open a catalog and start ordering stuff.
But if you are not in a hurry I've seen some great deals, here, FABO and there are a bunch of Mopar classified sites over on FB. Most of my purchases have been from people that either started a project or changed directions and it has saved me thousands of dollars.
Good luck with it though!
But if you are not in a hurry I've seen some great deals, here, FABO and there are a bunch of Mopar classified sites over on FB. Most of my purchases have been from people that either started a project or changed directions and it has saved me thousands of dollars.
Good luck with it though!
Back at you sir, but this has bee a project over the past 13 yrs. Life has happened several time and it has just sit most of the time. So where I'm not in a big hurry I am ready to drive it.
XCELLR8
Well-Known Member
Here is a video of my car. Yes I know the plug wires are long, I have since fixed the issue with new wires.
Not that I would not recommend it, hell I like the way it sounds. The problem is low vacuum and driveability. Maybe it's my set up, 7.8 to 8.2 compression smogger 400 with stock trans and converter, along with the 2.71 rear gears. The car idles good and runs great when I get the RPMs up. It's the off idle to 1200rpm it coughs and sputter, and it wants to die when in gear at a stop light. I have run 850cfm to a 600cfm carbs and all kinds of jetting set ups. I have a 3.23 rear end to put under it and I'm looking to put some aluminum heads to up my compression. Rebuilding iron heads and getting them to flow you are in the $1200-$1500 range, from what I have read.
moper
Well-Known Member
Stealths are good value. That means for the money spent they give decent return. Not you don't have to spend the money. Ready to bolt on, with upgraded springs, retainers, and locks, the valve job corrected, and the gasket surfaces milled flat, you'll be into them for close to $2K depending on the shop that's doing the work. And for most performance builders - that's what they need to be in condition to run hard reliably. They will be much better than any factory head, plus lighter, plus a much better chamber to work with when designing the engine which is as important as the power.
In terms of camshafts - the ones being marketed for sound now, simply suck for power. You do not ever buy a cam for sound. You buy it to make the power you want, with the other parts you have, and the sound is whatever it is.
In terms of camshafts - the ones being marketed for sound now, simply suck for power. You do not ever buy a cam for sound. You buy it to make the power you want, with the other parts you have, and the sound is whatever it is.
I didn’t go through all the threads but I thought I’d throw some info in. I am using 440 source stealth CNC heads on a 512 stroker kit from440source. They went on great. Had to update some valve hardware but that’s it. 512 run very strong and no complaints!
I will say this.. I like them but I don’t have much to compare them to other than good old iron heads. They beat that by a long shot!
Good luck
I will say this.. I like them but I don’t have much to compare them to other than good old iron heads. They beat that by a long shot!
Good luck
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