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440 still running poorly

Why do you say that???? It seems to me that this has been beat right to death.
I may certainly be wrong, won't be the first time. I just think it's something basic that's been overlooked, or not ruled out as a cause of the problem. Just an opinion, no intent to offend anyone.
 
Your vacuum reading, is this actually in/hg or do you mean psi but negative? Is the gauge steady or bouncing?

What intake manifold is on it? These are raised runner heads, no?

How are you determining the lifter is on the base circle before adjusting the valve? (are you using EOIC method as PRHeads mentioned?)
 
Why do you say that???? It seems to me that this has been beat right to death.

But it's never been checked/verified.... As I posted in the previous thread just pull the drivers side valve cover & by following the procedure explained below you either find your problem or eliminate it as the problem....

Something I've done to confirm the cam timing is close to correct is to set #1 at the split point and see if the damper is at TDC.... I have in the past laid my fingers on #1 intake & exhaust rockers & have a second person use a breaker bar to turn the engine over, the exhaust valve opens then closes... As it is closing I pay attention to the intake, the moment I feel movement on the intake I mark the damper, then continue turning in normal rotation till the exhaust stops moving, mark the damper, split the distance between those marks & you should be @ TDC....


Not as accurate as dial indicators & degree wheels but it'll get you close enough to know if your looking in the right direction....
 
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Try this.... The arrow points to the split point.... That point in cam timing occurs within a few degrees of TDC...
You can see both valves are open slightly @TDC, the exhaust is closing & the intake is opening....

Most peoples fingers are sensitive enough to feel motion before your eyes perceive motion.... So find the split point & see if the engine is at TDC...

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These are raised runner heads, no?

I believe he’s using the TF240 heads, which are std port, std port location.
Can still use a stock valley pan gasket and intake manifold.

In the other thread it was mentioned the cam was “degreed”, but then I think it was determined maybe that didn’t happen.

If in fact it was actually “degreed”, then all the timing set discussion is moot.
If it wasn’t, then I agree doing what Wild R/T suggests as a quick check might shed some light on just how close the cam timing is.
This is the kind of check someone “with skills” and a full understanding on what the goal is can easily do and get worthwhile results.
On the other hand, if you don’t really understand what you’re trying to accomplish, it may end up being a wasted effort.
The OP will have to make that call.

If it’s determined the cam timing could be off, then the only logical next step would be to actually properly degree the cam in.
 
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Intake, compression, power, exhaust. If its understood how this works, it helps a little to understand where/when/what the cam is doing in relation to the cranks position. TDC, both valves closed or, ABOUT to not be. I don't know the op's "level" as Im no expert myself, just not much of the spec details mentioned upfront unless I missed it.
 
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