440 too hot -tried EVERYTHING!

[dryheat]

If none of the above suggestions have fixed your issue there is one last test that you can perform. It truly is the "test of last resort".

I had similar issues on a non mopar engine. After many days of frustration a friend suggested that I check the coolant for hydrocarbons. He worked in a garage so I took my car over and he was able to sniff the coolant with the emissions testing equipment. Very HIGH HC readings in the coolant.

Bottom line was that one of the head gaskets had a leak and was pushing HOT air/fuel into the coolant during the power stroke. I was not loosing coolant nor was the oil chaning colors and my compression test seemed normal.

Napa sells a chemical test for the pressence of HC's in your coolant for around $15 ...

Might be worth a try if everything else seems OK.

 

[oldbee]

@dryheat--But, if ur pushing compression into the cooling sys. it seems to me that it should pushing out the overflow??

 

[rlsbee]

I'd double check the timing too like HEMI-ITIS said. I had heat problems because I was not running enough advance for the cam overlap I had. Too much fuel was burning in the headers and heating everything up. Once I got it as advanced as it needed to be the thing cooled right down.

I'll add my 2 cents and agree also. My Bee always ran hot until I started playing around with the timing. I ended up cranking in a lot more initial timing and it really cooled down. The down side is that you have to limit total timing somehow. I bought a distributor that had adjustable stops.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

If the carb is too lean,it will cause it to run hot.Does it cool down after idleing?Does the temp go UP when your cruising,or just when you beat on it?

 

[Plymouth_Bob]

the reason most 440s or engines in general run hot like that and wont clear up after changing parts like the OP has done is because the piston to wall clearance is TO TIGHT which is creating alot of friction and heat buildup in the cylinder walls which in turn causes the coolant to overheat. now i would start off by questioning the radiator is it stock or after market, whats the cfm rating on it and whats the HP rating for it, do you have electric fans or a pulley run fan? if its a flex fan junk it invest the 300$ in a dual set 1400 cfm rad fans and make sure your radiator is up to par. companies like BECOOL have good tech support lines to help you determine what you need. IF this does not clear up your cooling issue then start looking for internal problems

 

[Dennis H]

Don't know. Elusive problem.

My assortmant that works is a 180 Napa SuperStat, clutch fan, shroud, 26" 4 row Copper radiator, Mancini Billet housing, green ccolant. Do the acid strip test and use AmsOil or Royal Purple Ice to reduce surface tention. Use a laser temp gauge to be sure of accurate reading. Timing and carb as mentioned on page one. Let us know the fix.

 

[has2bmopar]

Do you have an aftermarket aluminum water pump housing???

 

[has2bmopar]

I just posted this on another thread, it may or may not come into play here....

I am very surprised that no one has noticed the hideous poor casting of the inside of the cheap aftermarket aluminum water pump housings. I ordered one from 440 Source and noticed right away, the very restricted passenger side port, it is even worse inside around the corner/ inaccessible to 440 Sources suggestion to just port it to the correct size. I already had a new Mopar Performance housing in wait for my Hemi, and compared it to the cheap copy... The real Mopar housing is really open inside and the smallest point is the port at the gasket surface, matching the gasket. 440 Sources response was that their water pumps are so awesome it will never make a difference... B.S. The pressure being equal no matter the amount of pressure will favor in volume the path of least resistance, so the vast majority of flow will be given to the drivers side (left bank). Even if the over all flow was enough that it didn't show it was over heating at the sending unit, the right bank will be much hotter the left. Has anyone been scoring right bank cylinders? I was very unimpressed with 440 Sources refusal to refund my money, so I could buy a Mopar Housing, instead I had to dream up a possible future for some over priced ARP headbolts, as it would be store credit only and I had to eat the shipping both ways, for a part that would likely fry any engine, or maybe just half of it. My personal experience was with 440 Source, but beware of any of the lesser housings and inspect the ports, as I noticed at a Mopar event in Minnesota that the PRW is the SAME thing, and have seen others that are shrink rapped to a piece of cardboard so you can't see the ports or feel the heavily restricted internals. I did take pictures of both housings with the gasket laying on them. If people quit buying the afflicted ones, maybe they will correct the problem. Until then... In my opinion, pay more now to the company that designed the part, or you may pay dearly later for buying the cheap copied counterfeit.

 

[jerry]

Found the problem. I use an aftermarket temp gauge and when we removed the console we lost the ground for it. It was moving up as the motor warmed, but it was about 60 degrees off - showing 230 when it was actually 170.
A lot of work over a damn ground.
Thanks for all your help, I learned a few things
Also, I restored a buddy seat and LOVE it. Changed the whole feel of the car.

 

[Sonny Black]

jerry, good for you!
sometimes it is something so simple!

 

[dryheat]

Glad you found it!

Thanks for posting a final resolution ... so many of us forget to do that.

 

[racedodge]

cool to hear!!! congrats on the find.