Cooling issues 69 RR 440 at wits end!

[Butch Harley]

Trap heat I made these

 

[BrettL]

So i know a lot of guys have posted similar issues so bear with me....

Data:
22" aftermarket 3 core radiator
New clutch on fan
No shroud ( can't get anything to fit rad)
Put 3000 cfm pusher fan on front of radiator
Removed tranny lines and put new cooler away from rad
Tried all diff thermostats and ended up with just a restrictor plate.
New upper and lower hoses.
New "stock" CW water pump
New 15lb rad cap.


Car runs pretty cool for about 15 minutes and then temp creeps up slowly to 230+ when I turn off.

Have 2 guages and both show same hot condition.

Pukes water/antifreeze after i shut off steam, etc.

I give up!

Only other thing is to change radiator with one tgat fits a standard shroud but I can't find any that they say works with stock shroud.

So..questions:
1. Any other ideas other than rip engine apart and look for some obstructions (relatively new build with decent cam and big headers.

2. Any idea for 22" radiator that works with stock shroud?

3. Shoukd i ditch clutch fan and use non clutch?

Thanks for all your help

ECP 26" Aluminum Big Block Mopar Radiator - Big Cooling Tubes

 

[1KoolBee]

While a 26 would be better, especially if you have the core support for it. It’s not absolutely necessary. My dad had a ‘68 Polara with a 383. It had a 22” 2-core radiator that did ok, then he added aftermarket A/C. Later he bought a 19’ Prowler travel trailer. Then the cooling system couldn’t keep up. He got a 22” 4-core radiator, an external trans cooler, and a better fan and the Polara never overheated again, no matter how many dogs & kids and how much crap we put in that trailer. The factory drum brakes were another story!

 

[Moparfever65]

First step get a co2 test kit from Amazon to check head gasket for leaks. Second if big block no more then 60 thousands clearance between impeller back side and facia of pump housing. Third you must have minimum 2/3. fan blade in some kind of shroud. Then 1/4 inch clearance max around edge of blades to id of shroud. The clutch mechanism you have is it a ac version or standard which makes a difference. The electric pusher simply put is bulshit with a proper cooling system, just b increases demand on alternator. Can you also tell us if the overheat is happening at hywayvspeeds or off idle

Agreed. Check the coolant for combustion gas first. Big blocks don't heat up very fast. Easy to do.

 

[1KoolBee]

Agreed. Check the coolant for combustion gas first. Big blocks don't heat up very fast. Easy to do.

Yes, definitely start with the simple easy stuff. Timing and combustion gas check first. That way you don’t feel like a dumb-sh*t later on. I’ve definitely learned that the hard way!

 

[Road Grabber]

A lot of stuff mentioned.
Compression ratio can be a factor. I have a 22” in front of a stock 383 no problem but my 440 with 11 to 1 has the biggest rad I can fit cause it needs better cooling capacity.

The mention of burping is very important. Not overfilling is also important. Checking compression for a head gasket is also good advice.

Make sure your belt is correct and doesn’t slip with your pulleys. It does make a difference. Timing a good start.

When you hit the accelerator while standing in front of the grill does it pull your pants towards the engine?

Will it overheat idling with the hood open?

Does it overheat the faster you go on the highway?

More stuff to check..,,

 

[profholley]

There is no denying that many vintage Mopars struggle with heat soak and high coolant temperatures in summer traffic. But that is not the radiator’s fault, not entirely. When you consider that most of these cars are 50+ years old and often run with:

• Incorrect ignition timing or curve
• Leaner-than-optimal air/fuel mixtures
• Missing or ineffective fan shrouds
• Weak radiator caps or improper coolant pressure
• Cheap parts-store water pumps

It is no surprise that they run warm. But the issue is not the cooling system's design. It is that something else has gone wrong.

The Factory System Was Built Right

Original Mopar cooling systems were engineered to survive stop-and-go traffic, desert heat, and quarter-mile abuse. A well-maintained factory system typically includes:

• A 2 and 3-core copper/brass radiator
• A 4, 5, and 7-blade mechanical fan (sometimes with a clutch)
• A full fan shroud
• An appropriately rated 16 psi radiator cap
• A correct thermostat (usually 180°F or 195°F)

Factory radiators were often larger and more effective than those used by GM or Ford in comparable models. When restored and paired with a finely tuned engine, they still do the job, proving their worth and reliability.

check Mopowergarage.blog for more information about Mopars

 

[dadsbee]

Nobody wants to hear from me.. lol. 6 cars, factory rads and oe water pumps.... none puke!

 

[440 4 speed]

Nobody wants to hear from me.. lol. 6 cars, factory rads.... none puke!

No use in telling the people the truth. As I have mentioned before, Chrysler would have gone bankrupt in the 50’s or 60’s if that was a poor design.

 

[Vitamin_A12]

Just curious, you don’t happen to have one of those early 440 Source water pump housings do you? They were cast wrong and allowed the water pump to cavitate. Engine will overheat quickly no matter how much water you throw at it. Ask me how I know…