Makes me wonder if the belt tensioner is designed with too much pressure....I've run into that on some belt-drive motorcycles that have belt tensioners. Lots of drive belt replacements. I egged the mounting holes on my tensioner last time I serviced the bike, to allow slightly reduced tension (but still enough to keep on track) by letting the tensioner be mounted in a slightly rotated-away position. We'll see how that does. I get about 15k out of a belt the old way; coming up on that now on belt #3, we'll see if it goes longer. (I carry a spare regardless, and can change one roadside with hand tools - also carry a tool bag - in about 20 minutes). I also have older belt-drive bikes where you throw the book tension spec in the garbage, and run the belt "scary loose" (no tensioner), to prevent damage to transmission output shaft bearings. I just had to rebuild a transmission in one of my bikes, due to the previous owner keeping the belt too tight. A too-tight drive belt can also damage rear wheel bearings, to the point that Buell Motorcycles actually came out with a three-bearing rear wheel in 2010 as a retrofit to many of its motorcycles (2 YUGE bearings stacked on the belt side of the axle, and a single bearing on the brake side), in the name of durability and strength. I run a 3 bearing wheel on my go-to bike, with zero issues; I had to put new bearings in the OEM 2 bearing wheel at 20k miles. Bike is just shy of 50k now.
I do replace my tensioners on the Cummins (or any car with one, for that matter) if they stick or click. Run the vehicle and watch the tensioner, if it jumps around in sudden, large increments...it's bad. Small, constant movements are pretty normal, but occasional, big movements (usually accompanied by clicks) are no bueno. If the belt flops around...tensioner is bad, and has failed in the loose position. If the tensioner is HAARRRDDDD to get out of the way for a belt change...it's bad. There should be pressure, but not hernia-inducing, "where's my 10' breaker bar" work. I get all mine off with a standard 1/2" drive ratchet. If I feel clicking when I'm releasing it to remove the belt...I buy a new one when I buy the new belt.
But I am glad I'm not the only one "going through water pumps"....