65 Belvedere ignition issue. Left me stranded.

[Timmayy]

So this just happened. My wife and I were in my 65 Belvedere wagon. In the middle of a rotary it decided to huff and puff and stall out. I was able to get far enough over for cars to get by but it's no fun dodging traffic while diagnosing the problem. I checked the basics, I always carry starting fluid, and sprayed down the carb. Still doing the same thing. Won't stay running. I try changing out the orange box (electronic ignition and I always carry a spare). Not the problem. My wife now calls AAA for a tow, we are a couple miles from home. I'm still checking wires and connections etc. Some kid walks over and starts to give me a hand. I also carry a test light so I start checking wires with his help. I need two sets of eyes and my wife wouldn't be much help.

I find out that when the key is in the start position, the car runs fine while still engaging the starter. As soon as I let off onto the run position, it craps out. I took some wire and the kid jumps the electric choke to the + side of the coil. Starts right up and I'm able to get home. No AAA needed.

I've had the key ignition go out on me in the past on another Mopar years ago.

My question is, where is a good place to order a new one with key that's reliable. It seems that all the stock stuff I'm getting from local parts stores are junk. Unfortunately I don't have keys for the parts cars I have or I would switch it out.
Help me out Mopar brothers.

 

[Don67Satellite]

@Timmayy check the Ballast resistor if it craps out when key goes to run. Another thing to carry a spare.

 

[Charles Cook]

Take your parts car ignition and have a key made.

 

[Timmayy]

@Timmayy check the Ballast resistor if it craps out when key goes to run. Another thing to carry a spare.

Checked the BR and got power coming from both sides. I do have spares though and I will try one tomorrow. Thanks.

 

[Timmayy]

Take your parts car ignition and have a key made.

Will a 66 Charger one be the same as a 65 Belvedere?

 

[Charles Cook]

Will a 66 Charger one be the same as a 65 Belvedere?

Not sure about that. If the connection on the back of the switch are the same, it may work.

 

[steve340]

If the power is making it to the ballast resister in the run position it will be the resistor.
If the power is not making it to the resistor it will be the ignition or a connection.

 

[bobsgtx]

I could be wrong but can't you remove the tumbler form the old ignition switch and put it in a new one? I did this for years on International trucks that would smoke the B terminal on the switch.

 

[Timmayy]

If the power is making it to the ballast resister in the run position it will be the resistor.
If the power is not making it to the resistor it will be the ignition or a connection.

Just tried a new BR and that wasn't it.

 

[Timmayy]

I could be wrong but can't you remove the tumbler form the old ignition switch and put it in a new one? I did this for years on International trucks that would smoke the B terminal on the switch.

I'm looking at it now. It looks like I might be able to.

 

[Timmayy]

Yup, put the key in and depressed the small pin and it came out.

 

[Timmayy]

I pulled the one out of my 66 Charger parts car but I don't have the key to remove the tumbler. I can go Monday to the Key Man and get one made but I ordered a new switch from O'Reilly's just in case.

 

[RemCharger]

I would think the blue/white wire connection at the bulk head would be more likely than the switch.
Try disconnecting power to the choke as well. Less stress on the circuit

 

[Timmayy]

So this is where I'm at. All with the key on the run position.
Getting power to the + coil side.
Getting power to the orange electronic ignition box (conversion)
Tried my spare orange box.
Getting power to the ballast resistor, bright on input side, dim on output side.
Getting power through the bulkhead.
Getting power on both sides of the fusible link.

Is there something I'm missing?

It will still run if I keep the starter engaged and stall as soon as I let it go.

The car got me home by directly jumping from the electric choke to the + coil side. Any other ideas?

 

[bobsgtx]

You are going to need a voltmeter to see what you have. Test lights unless they have built in volt meter have limited use.

 

[Timmayy]

You are going to need a voltmeter to see what you have. Test lights unless they have built in volt meter have limited use.

Electrical in not my strong point. What volts should I be looking for at the ballast resistor, + coil etc.?

 

[CarolinaCharger]

You need to know exactly how many volts at the coil with the switch in the run position. It's starting to sound like a weak coil to me. All you're doing is basically bypassing the ballast resistor and supplying 12 volts to the coil with the wire from the choke.

 

[RemCharger]

Electrical in not my strong point. What volts should I be looking for at the ballast resistor, + coil etc.?

With the key on run, test the battery voltage.
Then compare it to the other points of testing. 1 wire side of resistor should be batt volt, other side maybe 8-9. Coil should be same as low voltage side of resistor

 

[Timmayy]

Today after work I'm going to check voltage and switch out the coil and ballast resistor from my running car.

 

[Ron H]

Check the ignition wire connection at the BH, tight, won't move with gentle pressure? Any evidence of that wire having overheated? This was the gremlin on my '63 after the elect checks, ballast, and testing the ignition switch. Only detected this when pushing on the connection with a buddy trying the key getting immediate start up. Connection would vibrate when driving causing instant stall. My BH wasn't in the greatest shape and planned to replace it...this hassle made me do it sooner.