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65 k frames

Rob Vaughn

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So I have two 65 coronet k frames one appears to a big block or probably a 318 poly if that s the case a 440 should sit in there am I correct?
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Top one isn’t a ‘65. Notice that the engine is farther back. Looks like ‘66-‘70
 
The one on the left is not a '65. It is a '66 - '70

You will need the correct brackets that bolt to the bolt to install a big block on that '65 K member.

Also you will need the correct oil pan or you will have to notch the K member on the right side for clearance.
 
Top one isn’t a ‘65. Notice that the engine is farther back. Looks like ‘66-‘70
Nate is top rate. The top one seems to be of a later year. 65 V8 K will accept a big block as long as you have the correct insulators and mounts.
 
Someone must have changed it the car is a 65
 
Either way do yourself a favor and trim the inside of the K frame for oil pan clearance. You'll thank yourself later.
Doug
 
Either way do yourself a favor and trim the inside of the K frame for oil pan clearance. You'll thank yourself later.
Doug
where exactly?
It must have had a big block in it at sometime
 
where exactly?
It must have had a big block in it at sometime
Only matters if you want to use a non-stock oil pan. The earlier K frame, with the engine farther forward was pretty limiting for possible oil pan configurations.
 
'62 to '65 had their own big block oil pan. It is curved differently on the right front
Looks like it may have been changed the undercoating tells the truth! After 56 years? Ya very likely! Thanks for all the input! Been messing with these mopars since 1985 and I'm still learning! I love it!
 
This cut is more than most may require. However the pan come off really easy.
On my sons 62 we just nipped the inner flange on the right side. One oil pan removal changed all that. Hole saw the inner corners where you want the hole to end up, Bend two pieces at around a socket to fit the radius. Then fit the right and left section trimming at the middle for proper fit. Tack weld the two pieces to the K frame. The pieces can be taller than the K frame. After tacking break out the cut off wheel and trim for the correct fit at the top and bottom. Then complete the welds. I've done few. Pretty easy. as you can see mine has the mounts and flanges removed as well.
Doug

S34.jpg

S36.jpg S40.jpg View attachment 1133261
 
This cut is more than most may require. However the pan come off really easy.
On my sons 62 we just nipped the inner flange on the right side. One oil pan removal changed all that. Hole saw the inner corners where you want the hole to end up, Bend two pieces at around a socket to fit the radius. Then fit the right and left section trimming at the middle for proper fit. Tack weld the two pieces to the K frame. The pieces can be taller than the K frame. After tacking break out the cut off wheel and trim for the correct fit at the top and bottom. Then complete the welds. I've done few. Pretty easy. as you can see mine has the mounts and flanges removed as well.
Doug

View attachment 1133262
View attachment 1133258 View attachment 1133260 View attachment 1133261
That’s pretty interesting and very nice workmanship. What do you think about the strength? I’d be tempted to model it and do some FEA to find out.
 
My car wheelies every time it leaves the line. The radius in the boxing simulates the original design. 9 years over 750 passes. My sons turbo car runs on the street as well as the track. Both cars run between 140-150 at the strip. Neither have had an issue.
Doug
 
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