Looking at the printed circuit board, I followed the different circuits around and figured out which were ground, which was for trun signals and warning lights and which were for the 2 gauges. I tested the gauge circuits and they had 7 ohms of resistance between the pin and the gauge stud. I used a 3/8" wrench and found all 4 were loose. I loosened, then snugged them up and figured out that was the reason for the high circuit resistance. I checked it again and it was now .7 ohms.
I also heard something fall onto the floor as the dash came out. It has a broken ear. Upon closer inspection, I found 2 others that were broken as well. I found that 65 to 70ish are all the same, so I got a bunch from Rock Auto since I ordered all the brake parts as well.
Next, I moved on to the voltage supply for the gauges. It looked fairly new, so I'm assuming it was replaced at some point. I figured out power and ground inputs and the the power output. I used test leads to check if it worked, but it did not.
Next, I tested tge 2 gauges to make sure they worked as a lot of guys shared horror stories of the voltage regulator sticking and frying gauges. I used 2 triple A batteries and 2 jumper wires. Bith gauges moved and registered as expected for 3V of power.
I also heard something fall onto the floor as the dash came out. It has a broken ear. Upon closer inspection, I found 2 others that were broken as well. I found that 65 to 70ish are all the same, so I got a bunch from Rock Auto since I ordered all the brake parts as well.
Next, I moved on to the voltage supply for the gauges. It looked fairly new, so I'm assuming it was replaced at some point. I figured out power and ground inputs and the the power output. I used test leads to check if it worked, but it did not.
Next, I tested tge 2 gauges to make sure they worked as a lot of guys shared horror stories of the voltage regulator sticking and frying gauges. I used 2 triple A batteries and 2 jumper wires. Bith gauges moved and registered as expected for 3V of power.