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67 Belvedere floor pan transmission clearance

Didder

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I want to convert my 67 Belvedere ll from a 3 speed on the colum to a 4speed on the floor. I am told the floor pan for the 3 on the tree or automatic Trans has a different tunnel than the 4 speed floor pan.
They make what they call an adapter piece that can be welded/riveted in for the shifter itself.

My question is , will the 4 speed bell housing and transmission have clearance ? All I can find says there is a significant difference in the tunnel dimensions but nothing states if it is just the shifter area or the whole tunnel is larger for the 4 speed.

Has Anyone else done 4 speed swap?
 
Add the 4-speed hump to the floor pan and cut out the existing metal under the hump and you have all the necessary clearance.
 
I want to convert my 67 Belvedere ll from a 3 speed on the colum to a 4speed on the floor. I am told the floor pan for the 3 on the tree or automatic Trans has a different tunnel than the 4 speed floor pan.
They make what they call an adapter piece that can be welded/riveted in for the shifter itself.

My question is , will the 4 speed bell housing and transmission have clearance ? All I can find says there is a significant difference in the tunnel dimensions but nothing states if it is just the shifter area or the whole tunnel is larger for the 4 speed.

Has Anyone else done 4 speed swap?
 
The hump is on the side of the tunnel for the shifter clearance, the bellhousing and trans fit just fine.

Get a hump and place it on the floor, it only fits on one spot. Mark around the hump and remove. Cut and inch inside of the mark you made around the hump and you are done.
 
Here's a couple of pictures of when I did my 67 Belvedere two years ago. I laid the hump in place, traced around it, then taped two markers together and retraced the outline to give me a second identical shaped outline about 1" to the inside of the initial outline. I then cut on the inside line everywhere except the back where the torsion bar crossmember prevented me from doing so. There I simply cut it straight across along the edge of the torsion bar crossmember. This way you have plenty of floor pan left to either screw or weld to and won't risk cutting the opening too big. You'll know right where the hump belongs as soon as you set it in place as it really only fits nicely right where it's supposed to go.

KIMG0998.JPG


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And you don't have to be neat or accurate ... many of those holes from the factory look like they were done with an axe!
 
Thanks guys, the engine and transmission are out of mine right now so I wanted to be sure before I got to far into it.

This helps ease my mind, thanks again
 
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