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67 Charger Suspension input needed!?

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2:18 AM
Sep 8, 2018
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Salt lake city, Utah
I was wondering everyone's opinion on suspension upgrade for my 67 Charger. I just want it to handle more like a modern car since it will have the high performance 440 in it. I do care for it to handle any track time but I don't want it to feel sloppy and loose. Do you have suggestions on what I should upgrade to make it handle better? I want to replace as little parts as possible (because of money obviously).

Here are the parts that have or will be replaced no matter what.
--Rear leaf springs (will custom order)
--Has monroe shocks on it now (cheap nothing special)
--Has new (stock oem parts) ball joints, pitman/idler arms, tie rods, sway bar end links/bushings.
--New performance tires
--Disk brakes all around (no brake booster)

Here are a list of parts to consider
-- Different steering box
-- Better quality shocks
-- Upgraded Torsion Bars
-- Upgraded upper control arms
-- Brake booster (with vacuum pump because engine does not produce enough vacuum)
-- Upgraded better than stock ball joins, pitman/idler arms, tie rods, sway bar end links
-- Upgraded sway bar
-- Tubular K member
Here's my 2-cents...
1. I would suggest you look for aftermarket wheels (17" or 18") since there aren't any 14"/15" performance tires available (at least no z-rated, soft compound tires that I'm aware of)
2. Keep the car as low as possible (turn down torsion bar adjusters & consider 1"-2" lowering blocks in back from Autozone...definitely NO super stock springs in back).
3. Firm Feel steering box
4. Better quality shocks
5. Add frame connectors
6. Increased diameter front sway bar & add a rear sway bar

This is all that I would do if it were my car & I had unlimited cash....nothing else
Was it originally a bigblock car? If not, new torsion bars are a must in my opinion. My car was a 318 car and now houses a 340 but the tiny 50 yr old 318 torsion bars were the main cause of the spongy suspension. If I had put a 440 in it, on those TB it would probably ride like a brick as they would constantly be at full tension.
This is what Im doing though its not all together... parts are all here just not assembled....it may work well...it may not, but I think it will be a huge improvement!
I bought a QA1 k member, tubular uppers and lowers, Qa1 adjustable strut rods, new billet tie rod adjusters, new PST 1.03 torssion bars, Borgenson PS Conversion kit and all new pitman and tie rod ends. Later on I may add the front sway bar, jist figured it woukd be useless with skinbies up front.
The rear has alreay had the leafs (ss) moved inboard, and set up for ladder bars if needed. Qa1 adjustable on all 4 corners.
I currently have new bias ply tires N50s on rear, runners up front but will change to a radial after I recoup some cash
Well I don't really have a total, the k member was $500, ps box $500, strut rods 200 & torsion bars $300, billet adjuster $60, were purchased retail around $1500.
The upper and lower control arms are new but I was able to get them from members here that ended up not using them I think I got them for $500 for all 4
Things I bought that I won't need are a new PST 16:1 manual box $260, PST super rebuild kit $450...I will use some of the parts out of it like Pitman arm, tie rods
So in reality a little over $2000.
PST does offer a complete kit similar to mine except its a coil over set up for $3000 minus the coilovers/rack & brakes but because you are a FBBO member I think you get 20% off. Its called HDK
You can buy a complete QA1 with shocks set up minus steering /spindles /brakes for around $2200 pt# HK02-CRB1
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Best bang for your buck..... Rear sway bar, installed mine back in the 80's, rebuilt the rear end ten years or so ago, and did not reinstall, due to not wanting to bend and alter my new rear brake lines. Drove it for a couple of years with out it, and reinstalled to get rid of the body roll.
Night and day difference. Also, idler arm is a weak link for the first gens , if you are running wide front tires, they will wear out quickly.