67 R/T... Back to Life

[69L48Z27]

I started putting the vent windows back together. Dug my frames out and polished the stainless, riveted the pivots, and glued the chrome back on. All chrome is redone and original to the car.

Here's the parts, I already assembled the channel on the glass and it's pivots. This is what left:

Vent chrome

Riveting the pivots back on

The epoxy

You don't need to get too crazy with epoxy, these were originally just crimped on. Some oozing around the crimps is all that needed. I used panel bond on the last car I did these to. Either epoxy would be okay.

 

[69L48Z27]

Vent windows are done. All original parts rechromed and original rubber was cleaned up and reused.

 

[69L48Z27]

Next up is the body plugs. I had all the originals and I chose to clean them up and reuse those too.

 

[69L48Z27]

The exhaust is from Gardner's and it fits really well. I picked this up at Spring Carlisle to save on shipping. Still pretty pricey but it comes with everything, I didn't end up using anything from my original exhaust. It all slides together and there's no fab required at all, just goes together like it's supposed to. That's what your paying for. This is supposed to be the best possible OE correct exhaust out there, I'll take their work for it. Mufflers have part numbers but no pentastar.

 

[showard]

Great job! Your vent windows look brand new.

 

[watermelon]

looks like you have a new parking brake cable

can you provide details on where you sourced it? does it function nicely?

i need to take a look at mine. its not working. i have original drums in rear still, did wilwood discs up front



thanks,

watermelon

 

[69L48Z27]

looks like you have a new parking brake cable

can you provide details on where you sourced it? does it function nicely?

i need to take a look at mine. its not working. i have original drums in rear still, did wilwood discs up front



thanks,

watermelon

Yes, new parking brake cables. They are the 'OE' style from Inline Tube. I ordered them from an Inline Tube vendors at Spring Carlisle, $100 IIRC.

Function seems fine so far.

 

[watermelon]

thank you



watermelon

 

[69L48Z27]

So nobody caught my rear exhaust hangers being on backwards? Was looking in the service manual and they need to be turned around.

With the holiday I have some time to work on the R/T. This weekend I moved the car from garage to garage, cleaner working environment and more lighting. It's time for the cut and buff. This is probably my least favorite task because I do this all by hand but it's so rewarding when it's done. Sunday I was able to get almost the entire way around the car with 1000 and 1500 grit. I'll post later about the process and supplies.

I had another bag of parts plated. This time I got the original covers for the starter relay, horn relay and washer pump re-yellow zinc'd. I think it's really called yellow dichromate.

 

[69L48Z27]

Happy 4th everyone!

Part of the deal with my paint and body shop was they were going to let me take the car and not do any cut and buff. I spent the better part of the week getting the car done. I'll walk you through the supplies and products needed.

Just to get us kicked off I spent nearly 40 hours and several hundred on supplies not including the buffer. I did all this sanding by hand, no DA.

Here's the materials needed and my weapon:

- Wet paper - 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000 grits. If your only doing one car you don't need more than a 25 pack of each and you'll have enough left to do another car.
- 3M Perfect-It - this consists of three stages of buffing from compounding to ultra fine polish.
- Makita buffer
- stiff and soft sanding blocks

 

[69L48Z27]

The process is as you would expect, wet sand from coarse to fine grit. I think I went around the car 6 times or so. Then you also have to creep up on it depending on what finish your looking for. If you screw up and don't keep your mind on your work the car will go back to the paint shop. There is no recovering from blowing through the clear.

I will say the Lucky 7 laid down some paint, orange peel or texture was minimal along with very few defects and nibs. My goal is to flatten the clear to the panel and take out all texture and defects.

This can be very nerve racking if you don't do it everyday but take your time and check your work constantly. Once you do a little of this you'll get the feel for it. And stay off your edges!

Here's what we're starting with

View attachment 623598

 

[69L48Z27]

Only work one panel at a time and one section of the panel at a time, stay focused.

 

[69L48Z27]

Make sure you use plenty of water.

When you wipe the panel you'll see really quick where your low spots are. Gloss will be poking through and you'll see the texture. Once all texture is gone then it's time to start refining the sand paper grades. Goal is to take out the scratches from the grade before. Panel is flattened out at this point.

Here you see the texture left in the light spots.

 

[69L48Z27]

Here's a before and after reflection.
After

Before

 

[69L48Z27]

And the final product. Again, about 40 hours all in. The shop quoted me 60 hours to do this. I'm only referencing this to because whether it's 40 or 60 hours it a whole bunch of money saved.

Oh and what a mess. The wet sand slurry and buffer lint and dirt is crazy. I spent half the day cleaning the car and garage.

The payoff, time to get this thing put together!

 

[mcmlvii]

Wow, your hard work paid off big time.

 

[watermelon]

ohh wow. that is nice. time well spent. thanks for the lesson too!


watermelon

 

[showard]

Great "wax on wax off" exercise. Your muscles are probably sore now. Worth it though, looks great.

 

[69L48Z27]

Great "wax on wax off" exercise. Your muscles are probably sore now. Worth it though, looks great.

For sure. The buffer is what gives the best work out. Odd angles and down low...

Thanks!

 

[69L48Z27]

Had another day in the garage. Spent the morning on touching up a few spots that I missed on the cut and buff. Seems like it never ends...

Started in the engine bay. Stater relay and horn relay are originals. I had the cases re-yellow dichromate'd. Not sure if thats a word or not. Screws for all the fire wall stuff were zinc plated as well.

The washer bottle came from Year One and the pump is original, had the motor cap replaced too.

VR is a solid state unit, eBay. I ran one on my GTX and it worked pretty good, thought I would do it again. Ballasted resistor is from YO also.

Booster nut was re-plated too. Nuts for wiper motor were silver originally, the are also replated.