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68 charger restoration input from the experienced.
- Thread starter PNW68ChargerRT
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gtxdana
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What part of Oregon are you in? I'm in the middle of a 70 GTX restoration, but I can actually see some light at the end of the tunnel.
For media blasting, I used J&M in Troutdale and Leonard in Sherwood. Both do good work and won't get carried away and warp panels. I took the shell to J&M on the rotisserie to make it easier on them to do the top, bottom, in and out. If you know you're going to replace quarters, you may as well use a panel cutter and an air hammer and open up a big window so they can access the inner structures easier, and not waste a bunch of time, and money, blasting metal that's going to get cut off anyway.
Some Car Guy
Well-Known Member
I would suggest finding somebody to let you drive or at least ride in one of these 68-70 b bodys so you can decide what you want to do. You might want to price out a build in oem spec and some sort of upgrade pro touring or even just hopped up suspension.
It’s really hard to describe how these cars drive as most people have no idea how it feels to go from a modern car to one of these. If your goal is make it feel like a new car, be prepared to break out the plastic.
I’ve had many many Mopars. I like how my 69 GTX feels with stock everything except the ball joint sway bar links(drop in upgrade for 66-69 b body from about a 2016 ford truck) and Bilstein shocks.
Just lots to consider, would take lots of typing. Easier in person, I would be trying to find guys or a club locally. You can buy whole kits, cut the car up, or just do little tweaks like sub frame connectors and such.
How original is this car? Another angle that needs to be considered.
It’s really hard to describe how these cars drive as most people have no idea how it feels to go from a modern car to one of these. If your goal is make it feel like a new car, be prepared to break out the plastic.
I’ve had many many Mopars. I like how my 69 GTX feels with stock everything except the ball joint sway bar links(drop in upgrade for 66-69 b body from about a 2016 ford truck) and Bilstein shocks.
Just lots to consider, would take lots of typing. Easier in person, I would be trying to find guys or a club locally. You can buy whole kits, cut the car up, or just do little tweaks like sub frame connectors and such.
How original is this car? Another angle that needs to be considered.
PNW68ChargerRT
Member
Holy smokes! I applaud the dedication to getting that car back on the road! Do you have any photos of it before you started?
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they're all pretty much the same +/- ........ I've stitched a bunch of them together
PNW68ChargerRT
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Absolutely beautiful! Did you do the body and paint yourself? If not, may I ask who you used? I'm down in Newberg and I have heard of leonards blasting. Thats one thing I need to keep an eye on is a rotisserie. I have the capabilities to fab one up but I don't really want to spend my time on that. If possible, I would like to pick your brain on a few things in starting the process. Thank you
PNW68ChargerRT
Member
I didn't even think about asking someone to drive one. Ill have to make some local connections and at the least take a ride in one. Great to know about the sway bar links. The car is about as original as it gets. Everything is there body wise and most of the interior. It runs and drives ok but the transmission isnt original and does of a D warranty block. I do have a lot of extra parts that I have aquired to, Including original wheels and hubcaps.
gtxdana
Well-Known Member
The body and paint, the parts that need to be perfect, were done by real body and paint guys, not me! Both are/were under the table side shop owner/employee side jobs. The body guy is not at a place where he can do another big project at this time, but I can ask my painter. Some pictures would be helpful to get an idea on how much work will need to be done.
You're in luck! I'll be selling my rotisserie, with everything you need to mount a B-body plus the casters for rolling the body around when it's off the rotisserie when I get the body back from the painter and get the underside painted. At my age, I won't be doing another nut and bolt restoration. Well, probably not...lol.
Hey, I'm just down the road from you in Donald. While my '69 R/T is currently in 1,000 pieces in my garage as I (slowly) reassemble it, I do have a '68 Super Bee that's all stock that you're more than welcome to take a ride in anytime.
Some Car Guy
Well-Known Member
There we go. Super cool thing to do.
QQ1 was a 68 color and that Charger is a 69, which is probably B5, a slightly different shade.
Big bill
Well-Known Member
You are correct it dose not get the rust out of the seams and it’s hard to get coating back on hard to reach spots . One must remember these bodies were dipped when manufactured.
Big bill
Well-Known Member
I have bias ply tires on all my cars and they are stock junkers and drive and ride great.
gtx6970
Well-Known Member
Dipping creates issues unless you have it E coated shortly after.
If not it will bleed rust for ages from under seams ( found this out the hard way )
IMO remove all rusted damaged metal THEN have it media blasted and epoxy primed.
QQ1 is a great color .
2 stage base clear will be easier to repaired down the road IF you need to versus single stage
If not it will bleed rust for ages from under seams ( found this out the hard way )
IMO remove all rusted damaged metal THEN have it media blasted and epoxy primed.
QQ1 is a great color .
2 stage base clear will be easier to repaired down the road IF you need to versus single stage
Hey could you provide more info on this sway bar mod? Thanks
EDIT: I found the thread thanks for the heads up
Last edited:
1 Wild R/T
Well-Known Member
If your are truly chasing stock restoration the car should be painted single stage acrylic enamel.... But there is zero chance I would seriously consider that... QQ1 is metallic & metallic single stage can't be color sanded & buffed... It's also difficult to do spot repairs..
So, BC/CC
I don't know where to have it done in your area but down here we have a place that glass beads car bodies then seals the car completely in a powder coat primer.. The great thing about powder coat primer is it is electrostatically drawn to the car so it finds any bare metal & seals it... Nooks, crannies, inside frame rails... Originally I had concerns about how well the paint would bond to the powder... I have a buddy that had it done 12 years ago & the paint is still flawless..Another guy had his car done last month & to do the whole car, top/bottom/inside/outside/engine compartment/trunk blasted & powder coated was $2100.00.
So, BC/CC
I don't know where to have it done in your area but down here we have a place that glass beads car bodies then seals the car completely in a powder coat primer.. The great thing about powder coat primer is it is electrostatically drawn to the car so it finds any bare metal & seals it... Nooks, crannies, inside frame rails... Originally I had concerns about how well the paint would bond to the powder... I have a buddy that had it done 12 years ago & the paint is still flawless..Another guy had his car done last month & to do the whole car, top/bottom/inside/outside/engine compartment/trunk blasted & powder coated was $2100.00.
Belvedere408
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Newberg is a great little town, I picked up my favorite dog all time down there 15+ years ago.
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