68 Roadrunner shroud recommendations

[Ed Martin]

I have a stock 383 with a recently re-cored radiator that is fine at highway speeds (180 degrees); but will overheat in traffic and can boil-over when pulling into the garage in the North Carolina summertime. I keep the coolant level at least 1+ inch from full but covering the core. I'm thinking about putting a shroud on it. I see several places to get one. Any recommendations? Do they all need to be spot-welded in place? Thanks!

 

[66Satellite47]

What T-stat? Full, near top of tank is better, the pump pulls the level down a bit. If the radiator doesn't have the mounts. Make your own, bend some strap & make the mounts.

 

[davek]

the shroud bolts to the radiator. What fan is on your 383,if its a clutch fan your clutch could be bad. Has your car always done this? Im in s carolina and no shroud on my 440-6 pack. We need more info to help. picks of engine might help to see what you have.

 

[dadsbee]

383HP rebuilt stock, other than a "purple" cam, in 1978. Stock 22" x fresh 2 core rad and a 190 stat. I power shift the **** out if it, up and down and it runs right there even on a 95F muggy day. Get your cap pressure tested before you jump too far into it..

 

[Ranger16]

Ed, I have a '69 383 with the original 22" radiator. When I got it, I was running rather warm, 200°. Got up to 230° in traffic waiting to get into the Power Tour venue. When I gor home I changed the thermostat from the factory 190° to a 180° and added a shroud. Now I rarely ever hit 190°, even idling in traffic on a 90°+ day. I got the shroud from Mega Parts. It was not cheap and to make it worse, the mounting brackets are extra, but in hindsight, it was money well spent. Looking at their site, it appears that the '68 is even more expensive than the '69.
https://www.megapartsusa.com/products.php?cat=542

 

[turbine68rt]

I have a stock 383 with a recently re-cored radiator that is fine at highway speeds (180 degrees); but will overheat in traffic and can boil-over when pulling into the garage in the North Carolina summertime. I keep the coolant level at least 1+ inch from full but covering the core. I'm thinking about putting a shroud on it. I see several places to get one. Any recommendations? Do they all need to be spot-welded in place? Thanks!

Just got back from Carlisle and yes, it was rather warm there. 68 440 mag, stock 22" never used a shroud, has a fan clutch and entire time it never got above around 190°, even idling in traffic. What initial timing are you running? What type of fan?

 

[RoasterStrudel]

From personal experience, I'm a firm believer in a shroud. I had an excellent working cooling system with a big clutch fan, stock shroud, and a high flow water pump.

Then I had this bright idea of running to e-fans...Both engine and trans temps ran 40° hotter on the same radiator. Obviously worse at lower speeds. Went back to the same clutch fan without a shroud, engine cooled off about 20°, but it still wasn't right. Chalked it up to indirect airflow/turbulence around the outer perimeter of the fan blades without the shroud.

Not telling ya what to do, but I'd advise a well-sealed shroud. As others said, test the cap pressure too. Simple, inexpensive, and could cure your boiling over if that's part of the problem.

 

[Ed Martin]

Ed, I have a '69 383 with the original 22" radiator. When I got it, I was running rather warm, 200°. Got up to 230° in traffic waiting to get into the Power Tour venue. When I gor home I changed the thermostat from the factory 190° to a 180° and added a shroud. Now I rarely ever hit 190°, even idling in traffic on a 90°+ day. I got the shroud from Mega Parts. It was not cheap and to make it worse, the mounting brackets are extra, but in hindsight, it was money well spent. Looking at their site, it appears that the '68 is even more expensive than the '69.
https://www.megapartsusa.com/products.php?cat=542

Thanks Ranger16. So I see at Mega for a 68 22" they say: "Top and bottom stiffener is spot welded in place like original." I guess that means I would have to get some welding done. Did your 69 fit without welding? You mean you had to use mounting brackets for 69 (I don't see any listed) or is that for 68? They say the 69 shroud can be use on 68 with an additional bracket kit.

 

[Ranger16]

Ed, apparently the '68 & 69 are vastly different. My understanding from Mega Parts description is that the '68 is a two part metal shroud that is pre-welded together. No welding needed on your part if I understand it correctly. Mine is a one piece plastic shroud. I had to use these mounts. https://www.megapartsusa.com/proddetail.php?prod=101-FS9176. These look like the ones listed for your car. https://www.megapartsusa.com/proddetail.php?prod=101-FS9555.

P.S.
The mounts are shown farther down the page I linked.

 

[Ed Martin]

Ed, apparently the '68 & 69 are vastly different. My understanding from Mega Parts description is that the '68 is a two part metal shroud that is pre-welded together. No welding needed on your part if I understand it correctly. Mine is a one piece plastic shroud. I had to use these mounts. https://www.megapartsusa.com/proddetail.php?prod=101-FS9176. These look like the ones listed for your car. https://www.megapartsusa.com/proddetail.php?prod=101-FS9555.

P.S.
The mounts are shown farther down the page I linked.

Ranger16, that's exactly what I was wondering … whether the shroud is welded OR do I have to weld to something. I will call them to check.

 

[Ed Martin]

Thanks everyone, these are great suggestions! Here's a couple photos. It's a standard 7 blade fan and using a 180 degree thermostat on 22" 2-core (re-cored about 4 years ago) radiator. If I keep the radiator level too close to the top, it can boil over when shut off if I am coming in from too much low speed traffic. I haven't checked the timing in a few years. I will first get a new cap. It never did this when I first got it (one year old in 69), but has for the last 10-20 years. I should have upgraded the radiator to a 3 re-core. I really think it was marginal from the factory when new without a shroud and has deteriorated since then.

 

[origcharger]

Thanks everyone, these are great suggestions! Here's a couple photos. It's a standard 7 blade fan and using a 180 degree thermostat on 22" 2-core (re-cored about 4 years ago) radiator. If I keep the radiator level too close to the top, it can boil over when shut off if I am coming in from too much low speed traffic. I haven't checked the timing in a few years. I will first get a new cap. It never did this when I first got it (one year old in 69), but has for the last 10-20 years. I should have upgraded the radiator to a 3 re-core. I really think it was marginal from the factory when new without a shroud and has deteriorated since then.

View attachment 974709 View attachment 974710

I believe the shroud attachment for that radiator uses brackets that attach to those holes in the side, neither the brackets or shroud for that are what you would call cheap but would look factory stock. Example;
http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.php?cat=160

 

[Ed Martin]

I believe the shroud attachment for that radiator uses brackets that attach to those holes in the side, neither the brackets or shroud for that are what you would call cheap but would look factory stock. Example;
http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.php?cat=160

Thanks origcharger. That's what I was thinking, that the brackets attach to those rectangular holes in the side. No, they aren't cheap! Thanks for the link.