68 RR wheel alightment

[dcala84141]

What is the procedure for setting caster camba? Where is the starting point to make these adjustments? Do I set the eccentrics in the upper control arm equally midway both front and back? Is the caster done first or do I set the camba first? I know the toe in and out is done first. I to changed the lower ball joints and did upper and lower control arm bushings and it changed the wheel alignment. No wheel alignment shop wants to touch it they say car is to old

 

[91r/t]

Biggest thing I have ran into is getting the alignment shop the specs for alignment. I have them somewhere written down and they are in the factory service manual. They won't touch it alot of times because they have no idea what numbers to align it to. Try telling your alignment shop that you have or can get the specs and they might try it for you.

 

[halojumper]

Biggest thing I have ran into is getting the alignment shop the specs for alignment. I have them somewhere written down and they are in the factory service manual. They won't touch it alot of times because they have no idea what numbers to align it to. Try telling your alignment shop that you have or can get the specs and they might try it for you.

Just wondering. Doesn't the use of modern radial tires makes the stock specs undesirable?

 

[91r/t]

Just wondering. Doesn't the use of modern radial tires makes the stock specs undesirable?

They say they can be improved upon, but for toe and camber my cars seem to drive fine around town and wear tires evenly. I am sure they want different specs for perfection or road racing, but if I am doing that I am not trying it in a 50 yr old sled with 4 drum brakes haha! Someone can chime in with more experience in that type of driving, but for everyday cruising my factory specs are great and both my cars drive fine. I believe they say caster is the number you can gain more with if you can get more outta it, but again for going to ice cream and shows, she drives like a dream.

 

[JimCoronette]

Where in NY are you?
There is a shop in Newburgh that knows how to align Mopars.
They've done 3 of my cars over 3 decades, the last one 2 years ago.

 

[halojumper]

They say they can be improved upon, but for toe and camber my cars seem to drive fine around town and wear tires evenly. I am sure they want different specs for perfection or road racing, but if I am doing that I am not trying it in a 50 yr old sled with 4 drum brakes haha! Someone can chime in with more experience in that type of driving, but for everyday cruising my factory specs are great and both my cars drive fine. I believe they say caster is the number you can gain more with if you can get more outta it, but again for going to ice cream and shows, she drives like a dream.

That's what I was wondering about. I'm sure the track/autocross guys are more critical in their alignment specs. On my '67 I swapped in a disc brake kit with tubular upper and lower control arms, I also put in the the T/A challenger/AAR cuda distribution block. I went with the eleven inch rear drums with the 7/8 rear wheel brake cylinders. I was asked why I didn't put discs on the rear. I said drums are good enough for the girl I go with.

 

[Nate S]

I’ve done many home alignments. The first and most important thing is to let the front wheels move easily. I have two pairs of 1 foot square steel plates with grease in between. You can push the whole front end of the car around on them. Without this the drag of the tires on the ground screws everything up. You need to then roll the car back then forward to let it all settle. You also need a good level surface (actually check this with a level).

From there, caster and camber are intertwined. If you are using bias ply tires setting the cams in the middle is a good place to start. If you are using radials you’ll want as much positive caster as you can get. I’ll usually pull the rear cam in as far as possible and start there.

Caster is measured by turning the wheels one way and measuring camber, then the other way, then subtracting. You can look this up. Hot rod has an article. I’d get caster right then equally adjust both front and rear in or out to set camber to FSM specs. Go back and check caster after that, then camber until both are stable. Adjust toe last.

 

[dcala84141]

Where in NY are you?
There is a shop in Newburgh that knows how to align Mopars.
They've done 3 of my cars over 3 decades, the last one 2 years ago.

I’m on Long Island Newburgh is a little to far, but thanks for the info

 

[toolmanmike]

This chart will get you close. It doesn't help you get close at home so you can drive it to the alignment shop though.

 

[dcala84141]

I’ve done many home alignments. The first and most important thing is to let the front wheels move easily. I have two pairs of 1 foot square steel plates with grease in between. You can push the whole front end of the car around on them. Without this the drag of the tires on the ground screws everything up. You need to then roll the car back then forward to let it all settle. You also need a good level surface (actually check this with a level).

From there, caster and camber are intertwined. If you are using bias ply tires setting the cams in the middle is a good place to start. If you are using radials you’ll want as much positive caster as you can get. I’ll usually pull the rear cam in as far as possible and start there.

Caster is measured by turning the wheels one way and measuring camber, then the other way, then subtracting. You can look this up. Hot rod has an article. I’d get caster right then equally adjust both front and rear in or out to set camber to FSM specs. Go back and check caster after that, then camber until both are stable. Adjust toe last.

Thanks for the info, I’ll follow your procedure. I have F-70 14 bias ply and I also have radials 215’s and 255’s for a different look F-70 with dog dish, radials with the magnum 500