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'68 Sat riding low and leaning - torsion bar adjustment?

Cletus

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Here's some more rookie questions for y'all...
My Satellite does lean a bit to the right and rides kinda low, not a very "muscle car" look IMO. I'm planning to raise the rear, perhaps with lift blocks or air shocks. The front, however, is a different story. Been trying to gather info on torsion bar adjustment and got under the car to see what I could find there.

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The leaning is best seen when car sits on a level floor.

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View from behind. When car was parked outdoors, I first figured the leaning was in the road, leaning towards he curb.

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Side view. While the attitude is kinda good, the car is way too low - I've had ground contact when riding slowly over speed bumps and paving. Those are 14" tires, btw - I believe I'll swap them for 15".

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So I took a peek underneath, trying to localise the t-bar adjustment bolts. Is that the one sticking out just to the left of the middle of the pic?

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If so, that would be the other one. Does it look like the right hand side bolt is sitting lower than the left? I've understood from reading the forums that the bolts needn't be sitting on egual height, but this looks like a bit too much of a difference.

Right now, I can't even get a normal jack under the k-member or even the rear axle, so placing the car on stands is not possible until I manage to raise it. Are those bolts the adjustment bolts? What other tips and advice would you offer when it comes to making the car ride higher?



(EDIT - have no idea why the pic below is there...)
 

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Get a service manual to get the specs for the ride height, and adjustment procedure. Those bolts do adjust the ride height, and can have different protrusions depending on torsion bar condition and temper. As far as the rear goes, the ride height looks fine to me. You can have a slant depending on the leaf springs you are using. I had hemi springs, and mi slanted a little too.
 
Thank you. I have what I believe are stock springs, and they do seem a bit tired to me eye. Though it seems stock springs aren't supposed to have a lot of curve according to various internet sources (please correct me if I'm wrong). As for specs, I do have the service manual. However, it mostly speaks of front end maintenance and wheel adjustment and covers only torsion bar removal and installation. Manual barely touches the adjustment procedure - it's righty-tighty raises, lefty-loosey lowers, more or less.

That's why I figured I'll ask around you guys who have been there and done that - while the service manual is priceless for learning about the mechanical stuff, I value the input of people who have the practical experience :)
 
If you cannot get a jack under the rear end, then you simply need a lower jack. Raising the rear (air shocks or spring change) is not going to change the height of the rear end housing...just the height of the cars' body.

As for getting a floor jack under the K frame, lift up on the bumper while you have a buddy slide the jack under. Most cars can be raised an inch to 3 inches just by human strength.

You have the correct bolts Identified, just need to get some tension off them (jacking the car) to make adjusting easier. As far as how much?...there is no set amount (i.e.: 2 turns equals an in). Just have to experiment until you get the height you desire. Good luck!
 
Cletus, those are, indeed, the bolts for adjustment. It appears someone has turned them out quite a bit--normally, only the heads of the bolts are visible--and in some cases you have to look up into the recess of the lower control arm to see them. Popular rule of thumb is to measure the front ride height in a straight, vertical line from the ground through the center of the wheel to the fender well opening--common measurement is 27" to 28". Same method for the rear, common measurement is 24" to 25".
 
Raising the rear (air shocks or spring change) is not going to change the height of the rear end housing...just the height of the cars' body.
D'oh! Of course... I'm dumb. Sometimes when I think, I really don't...

Thanks for your input, gentlemen. Now, once the bolts are located, I'll see if they'll move at all... (any idea why someone would want to turn them out that much, btw?)
And as far as I understand, an inch of lift or so would be fine without any concern for the camber/caster/toe-in situation? Or are the bolts that far out that I'll have to make wheel adjustments anyway?
 
Get an alignment after you adjust the t-bars, your tires and wallet will thank you for it.
 
Get an alignment after you adjust the t-bars, your tires and wallet will thank you for it.

Agreed. If you have not had an alignment since owning it, it would be a great idea...once you have the ride height where you want it.
 
Went to work on the torsion bars, and everything went smoothly. Adjustment bolts moved with ease, raised the front first and worked myself down do a suitable height. Car doesn't slouch or lean anymore... rides with a way better attitude now.

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Thanks for all your input and help!
 
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