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'68 Satellite 4-door light refurb...and big fat engine swap.

Honestly, sometimes these little problems can be downright sadistic.


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Case in point, the throttle adapter bracket finally came in for this thing. I went through the effort of locating a proper factory throttle/kickdown stud to ensure the throttle cable would sit parallel with its mounting bracket, as the current Holley studs place the throttle cable outboard of the bracket next to the kickdown.


HAH!


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Go figure, turns out this thing is perfectly engineered for the Holley stud. :banghead:


Plus, the throttle return springs from the 2 barrel application are WAY too stiff. I'm going to try some generics, but I hope I can find a factory-looking two-spring setup that isn't this stiff.


-Kurt
 
Moved the return spring mount to the intake bolt instead of the A/C boss:


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Solved the spring tension issue, but tempted to bend the arm 180 and remount it so it is parallel with the throttle bracket, though that would negate the safety tab. Might leave it as-is.


-Kurt
 
Not much tonight, other than I discovered that the van rim I pulled in the junkyard - which I mistakenly thought was a 16" after I pulled it - turned out to be a minty, 1980's 15x7" rim. Perfect rim for the spare, as I'll need 15" rims minimum to clear the Viper calipers up front.


Rim is at far right:


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Thing is, I know, swear, and insist that this thing had a huge 16" tire on it when I got it - and somewhere here, I have video of me removing that thing in the yard. I also removed that tire with a manual tire remover, and I'll say one thing right now: It wasn't loose enough to be a 16" tire on a 15" rim. No way, Jose.


Yet, the rim is marked 15x7" Made In Canada, and the hoop is the exact same size as my Dippy police-spec rims, and it's an inch smaller than the 16" rims on the family's recycle bin on wheels (read = a Kia).


Someone must have magic-ed this thing into a 15" rim when I wasn't looking. I'm not complaining.


-Kurt
 
Arrrrrrrrgh.


The Holley 20-37 doesn't even come close. Shaft diameter is notably bigger than the throttle cable holes:


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That, and it's a VERY loose fit - the threaded end has no business in a hole this size.


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I saw more than one source advertising this piece for "GM," and I'm about ready to believe this shaft has NOTHING to do with Mopar applications at all.


I put the previous Mopar shaft on it for the moment. It works as is, but I don't like it. We'll see.


-Kurt
 
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I've been intending to post a proper update with a video teaser, but got tripped up this weekend by a failed 3TB Seagate hard drive. Haven't lost any of the video, but I've maxed out a spare drive and have no drive pairs (one backup) over 500GB to allocate for the project video footage I've assembled over the last year. Wish I could afford a few drives to assemble a decent RAID array, and even a JBOD that would handle all my video files isn't THAT cheap when you're practically flinging money at the car.


In the meantime, you'll all have to be content with a few engine photos from Sunday. Front of the intake is a MESS from the thermostat outlet leaking (t-stat wasn't centered at first install, cue a big geyser of water during the pressure test), and was compounded by the bypass nipple leaking (ditched the Teflon, gave it a good fat coating of sticky gasket shellac and shoved it back in there - I don't care how much of a pain it'll be if I ever have to get it out again, so long as it doesn't leak).


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-Kurt
 
Shopping list is getting shorter:



  • Sanden CP7H13 U7312
  • Kickdown from 4-barrel 360 (Thermoquad kickdown would work)
  • Fan shroud (Mopar #P2998326)
  • 18" clutch fan (from junkyard)
  • Mopar air cleaner
  • Possible change of spark plug wires - the Accel ends do not fit tightly in the Borg-Warner distributor cap



Sacrificial anode radiator cap is on its way, along with a '70-style dual belt squareback alternator.


-Kurt
 
The downpipes had not been completely welded when I first started the engine. Finished my semi-booger welds tonight:


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That said, I have a bit of a quandary going with the ball-end Walker exhaust manifold connectors. These things have thick flanges with no bevel/chamfer at the flange:


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(FYI, the pic shows the 2.5" versions - they won't work if you're trying to cross-reference part numbers. You need the 2.25" version, P/N #41725 for the large-flange Magnum manifolds).


Unsurprisingly, I don't have the ball ends centered on the manifolds so that the pipe clears the torsion bar with ease (no matter how centered it looks here, it isn't):


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This said, can I rely on the flat flanges to seal the ball end, even if the pipes are not parallel to the manifold? They seemed to be nice and tight during the engine startup, but I can tell you that you'd never hear an exhaust leak running it with those short downpipes.


Should I get a pair of chamfered 2.25" flanges (like the one below) and replace the flat flanges? Honestly, I'm a bit paranoid about getting an answer on this one, for it looks like I've run into yet another one of those unusual little questions that the internet has never answered until now. Seems like everything has beveled flanges except these things from Walker.


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-Kurt
 
Almost finished up my "too cheap to pay an exhaust shop" booger-welded exhaust system.


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Not really too concerned that it might not flow as good as it could. I just care that it works and saves me a few hundred dollars.


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Both pipes are just hanging from the Walker flared-end collectors in front, one lower than the other. I don't want to cut or measure the collectors for cutting just yet, as I'm waiting to buy a pair of proper beveled collector flanges from Treblig and install them at the same time I button everything up.


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-Kurt
 
Point #1: I hate Daylight Savings Time. Might as well work on the car at midnight.


Point #2: I really like these exhaust flanges. Thanks, Treblig!


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Point #3: If all goes well on the weekend, perhaps those flanges will become part of my exhaust, permanently.


-Kurt
 
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what an inspiring thread. I have the same car except mine has a back pack, but I can already feel a engine swap much like the one here.

I think I have seen you on FABO .....I am mainly on fabo but getting into B-body wagons because they quit making A-body wagons after 66 and I don't so much get into the "early A" at all.

great work your doing here and your car is awesome
 

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what an inspiring thread. I have the same car except mine has a back pack, but I can already feel a engine swap much like the one here.

I think I have seen you on FABO .....I am mainly on fabo but getting into B-body wagons because they quit making A-body wagons after 66 and I don't so much get into the "early A" at all.

great work your doing here and your car is awesome

Thanks; really appreciate it.

Mind you, I wouldn't do this engine swap if you have a healthy mill under the hood right now. Too much work just for a roller cam, Magnum heads, and a few extra cubic inches (provided you use a 360 over a 318). Unless you choose to do the bottom end and port the intake and head runners, there probably won't be much of a performance difference.

Speaking of performance differences, I haven't even mentioned the distributor curve, limter plate, and replacement spring (one for stock, so I hear). That'll come in time...

-Kurt
 
Today, I tried welding and installing my pipes in this evening...in the rain.

Of course, it was neither nighttime nor evening when I first started.


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It looked promising enough in the early afternoon. Flanges went on nicely, welds couldn't have been better, and this is what I call one hell of a perfect fit seeing that I figured out all the bends on this redneck exhaust without ever lifting the car up an inch, and pretty much threaded it through the bottom of the car flawlessly:


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Then I welded on a small extension to make up the gap at the muffler (you can see it in the first photo), and installed the left pipe.

Turns out I was a bit too well tucked in. The straight section of 2.5" pipe pulled up just a quarter inch from the floorpan. Not enough for my liking.

After cutting and fooling with the fit at the back, I put it back in - and this time, I angled it wrong. So I closed up for the evening. Grrrrrrrrr.


-Kurt
 
Today, I got smart. I put the final section of 2.5" pipe in each muffler, and mitered it until it matched the pipe in front of it. With a few crosshairs placed on the pipe, I was able to get each section welded up perfectly.


That, and the USPS surprised me by delivering my 2.5 OD to ID exhaust band clamps just as I was finishing up the second pipe. Score!


But I don't have a photo of any of that (boo). I don't even have a photo of the brand-new Edelbrock 1406 I dumped on top of it (double boo). But I had barely enough fuel in the Summit - just before I pulled it - to record just a bit of what the new exhaust sounds like before it shut off. Please excuse the lens flares.


satellite start - YouTube


Not as quiet as I had expected...


Also had to get a power steering cap from the auto parts store. The original cap's seal was a goner - the P/S pump was a geyser of fluid on both of these startups.


-Kurt
 
At last, the carburetor that the Mopar gods intended in the first place. Note how much better the throttle linkage and return springs sit.


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Spent the majority of the day trying to figure out why it wouldn't stay running - and only then realized that the Edelbrock (first time I've had one) has a 1/4" port in the back for power brakes, and it was gaping open!


Goodness knows I thought I heard a vacuum leak.


That said, I plugged it, and the engine started right up. Two problems:


1. The steering is locked solid. I must have installed the pump cam ring the wrong way. That would also explain why it's spitting fluid.
2. The engine idles good, but there's a valvetrain noise coming from the right side of which I'm quite worried about. Not a healthy sound.


It'll all have to wait though. I consider it a victory that I got it running, and will bask in that victory as I spend a bit of time this week plumbing the Summit carb on my '71 Mustang.


-Kurt
 
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Pulled the Saginaw PS pump this evening and flipped the cam ring around.


Would have been easy, but the van/Ramcharger two-piece P/S bracket has one drawback: You have to loosen the bracket to allow the pump's rear stud to slide out of its rear hole. The result? Water pump starts leaking. Probably seeping between the threads too, even though the threads have been shellacked.


At any rate, I'll be able to jack it, start it, bleed the steering, and then get to work on the valvetrain noise.


-Kurt
 
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Opened up the valve cover today and did a compression test on the entire right bank. 150+ PSI on each cylinder. Nothing wrong there, so no Miss Valve hooking up with Mr. Piston, thankfully. Granted, a leakdown test would be a better indicator, but hell with that - I don't have the tool.


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I'll say one thing though - this thing does NOT starve for oil. I can idle my Valiant's 225 with the valve cover open and don't need anything more than a cardboard box, but this thing shoots oil through the pushrods as if it were at war with the valve cover.


That said, I found that the fifth rocker in from the front was just a tad looser than it should have been - probably had a bit of load on it when I tightened it initially. Tightened the crap out of every rocker bolt, closed up the cover, and...


...perfection. This thing runs so smooth you could build a house of cards on the intake manifold (if it wasn't for the fan). I've heard that the HEI conversion improves the idle considerably, and the 3.9's timing chain tensioner helps keep the distributor timing accurate as well - but I've never heard a specific report of how the two work together. Flawless seems to be the word.


Keeping it running is another matter entirely. I don't have the choke hooked up, and it's quite apparent that either the Edelbrock or this engine is very picky about having the perfect A/F mix or it won't stay running.


I don't have the alternator (a squareback I found on Craigslist) hooked up to the pulley system yet (still need that compressor), so I'm not sure if there will be any output off the field terminal if I wire it up as-is. Electricity isn't my strong suit (yet, anyway).


-Kurt
 
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Today saw the Satellite's very first run under its own power.


Still a few things to do before it's complete (PCV system, finished fuel line, compressor, 18" fan and shroud, etc), but it's more or less all there.


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That custom alternator bracket is gone. The spacing against the head just didn't work the way it was supposed to, and the slot was simply too large to work well. Metal seemed brittle too. I replaced it with one kicking around in the shed - I think it came from a Universal diesel engine. Looks the part effortlessly.


The 1406 was rejetted and fitted with springs and metering rods to 1405 stock specs. Conversion went like a charm.


One thing does have me concerned though - the 6.5psi max pressure requirement of the AFB carb. Since the AFB/AVS carbs were spec'ed new on these cars back in the day, I would assume the stock fuel pump adheres to this specification, though the stupid plastic fuel filter really makes me wonder about that.


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At any rate, I'm not keen on adding a regulator into the line - I don't want the added complexity or more potential leak spots.


One other problem: The throttle plates hang open on acceleration, which turned out to be the source of most of my high-idle/choke issues. Soon as I started pulling back on the pedal with my foot, the problems went away. Either the 2bbl return springs aren't cutting it, and/or the throttle cable housing isn't backed down far enough in its bracket.


The 904 is also slow to shift at times, but I'm pretty sure it's low on fluid - seems to have lost most of its fluid sitting in the driveway. That, and I need to get that all-important kickdown linkage (which a local Mopar guy says he can get for me for $50 - seems a bit high when the whole linkage can be had for $150).


Now that I've had the car over 2 mph, the shot tie rod ends are more apparent than ever. The Viper front brake conversion is next for this beast, so that'll all get taken care of at that point. Funny how I still ignore the weatherstripping, the shot driver's door latch, and the fact that the keys that I got for the car fit the ignition and trunk only - not the doors. Priorities, priorities :)


I'm going to close this post with some celebratory beauty shots. Now that I can put the car anywhere under its own power, it's a lot easier to do!


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-Kurt
 
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Big steps backwards this extended Thanksgiving holiday weekend - but, in the long run, it's a good thing that I caught this:

Remember how half of the lifters on the engine had been replaced on the passenger's side?


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There was a good reason for that. The lifters on the driver's side all started failing to pump up with fluid after about a week or two of sitting, which brought me to the point of pulling the intake to find out what's up.

Long story short (VERY long: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=316085&page=9 ), the driver's side lifters do pump up, but bleed down very quickly and cannot maintain the necessary preload on the rockers.

At first, I thought this was a gallery blockage issue, which I quickly dismissed by checking flow at each bore (excellent) and by swapping lifters from one side to the other (bad ones wouldn't flow no matter where I put them, the good ones always flowed regardless of their position). Oil pressure is excellent, so that pretty much ruled out block issues. Also checked for the infamous and oft-missing rear gallery threaded plug - it's there.

Now that's where this just became sadistically irritating: Neither the Sealed Power nor Melling lifters I bought today - brand new - would pump up. I tried soaking them, then pumping them with oil in my drill press (with a pushrod in the chuck), and trying to prime them under the hood with and without pushrods installed.

Nothing worked.

Side-by-side comparison - no oil at left w/new Sealed Power lifter, oil to no end with one of the good lifters from the engine:

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And a video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wALp_S2rhsc

In the video, the new Mellings are on cylinders #6 and #8; the "good" lifters from the passenger's side are distributed in the front of the engine on #2, #4, #1, and #3; and the problematic lifters from the drivers' side are mounted in the #5 and #7 spot. The Sealed Power lifters were already returned to Advance Auto by then.

The video hasn't been edited and may be confusing (priming begins at 0:53), but as you will see, the Mellings barely dribble oil, the "good" old lifters shoot oil like no tomorrow, and the "bad" old lifters bleed down almost immediately after oil pressure is applied to them.

I also show how the old lifters have oiling holes at 90 degrees rather than 180 (straight up), and the video also shows me spinning one of the lifters 90 degrees to demonstrate that the flow doesn't change on the new lifters regardless of position (not that it's actually possible with the flats or the camshaft in the position they're in, but it does prove that the problematic lifters do not improve regardless of where the oiling hole is pointed)

At any rate, I must have tried every lifter bleeding trick in the book, and I've come to one conclusion and no other: Both the Mexican-made Sealed Power lifters and the U.S.-made Mellings are junk.

I now am awaiting a used set of Magnum roller lifters that one of the fellows on the Mopar A-Body forum disassembled, cleaned, and tested for his stroker small block until he decided to change the direction of his build. I'd rather have good used (and fully cleaned) lifters that work than new lifters that don't!

Oh well.

P.S.: I was hoping that I'd be able to clean up my workshop after the engine was done.


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"JUST KIDDING!"

This is what happens when your car hobby money has to come from selling stuff on eBay. It's an explosion of project car parts - in boxes - alongside stuff that doesn't sell on eBay - in boxes - and random crap you don't know where to put - in boxes - plus projects you never had time to organize and threw - in boxes - topped with everything else you forgot to put...in boxes.

Heck, that engine lift strap is still hanging on my bike stand, and I didn't even notice that until this minute. Maybe I have to take more photos of my junk heap to figure out what to do with it.

That also reminds me - the fire-damaged LED light panel should come back in the house now, if it doesn't smell like bad barbecue still.

-Kurt
 
I haven't really been posting much about the lifters, but I finally found out a LOT about the LA roller lifters vs. the Magnum roller lifters (yes, there is a difference), and the need to pump the Magnum lifters up with a priming shaft in the engine - NO exceptions.

Everything is covered in nauseating detail in this thread at FABO, and is a must read if you want to learn about the variations of Mopar roller-cam lifters:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1971061331#post1971061331


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Long story short, I'm going to get 16 new lifters for this thing, prime them correctly, and button the whole thing back up again. What a saga...

-Kurt
 
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