69 Coronet, 440 6 pack ex wannabee in Aus

66Satellite47

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aussiewannabee69

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I had an AVS done locally here, and it was about 230 for it. He puts them on an engine that he has on a run stand and dials them in for you. He calls you up and lets you hear it running and idling, revving, etc. I was happy with it. I would say in your area, 300 US would be a fair amount, but a question came to me while writing this, does he replate them for that dollar amount? If so, that doesn't sound too hateful.
He said that will be the max per carb.. could be cheaper. so at most it would cost $1800 for the set with the linkages done to.
 

aussiewannabee69

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That kit sure looks like a center carb style kit. Like I've said not the 6 Pak kit.
Edit: that kit won't have the parts you need for the end carbs.
Yeah i agree now that i have pulled the carbs down. The Promaxx gear comes with some of the end stuff that i will need.
Plus if i get ProCarb ( the local carb replater) to do them, he said he has the correct parts to fit to. Will wait and see what i need once i get the Promaxx gear.
 

aussiewannabee69

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So I started assembling the transmission and got the shift kit installed. TF2. I got the transmission completely assembled on the weekend only to realise I made an error. I was looking through assembly photos and realised I hadn’t used any extra springs in the front drum like myself and the transmission guy had discussed. I had only 9 in there, where he recommendeds to use 15 and a different retainer. Think it’s a CRT piece. Anyway so I’ve had to disassemble and order more parts for it. On the plus side I know how to build one back the front because I had it all together and had to disassemble because I dropped the little E clip on the parking rod in there. Measure the end float and was within spec. So pretty happy with how the trans in going. Looking forward to it being together

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66Satellite47

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I typically use either 10 or 12. Seldom used the 15. 12 is a good safe combo. Not sure what the TF 2 wants.
 

aussiewannabee69

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I typically use either 10 or 12. Seldom used the 15. 12 is a good safe combo. Not sure what the TF 2 wants.
Maybe to do with the 4.2 kick down lever and billet servo? I don’t know. I will just build it as per the trans guys plans because I don’t have any idea haha
 

66Satellite47

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The 4.2 lever is a good choice. If your guy knows his stuff, go with it.
 

aussiewannabee69

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I typically use either 10 or 12. Seldom used the 15. 12 is a good safe combo. Not sure what the TF 2 wants.
Maybe to do with the 4.2 kick down lever and billet servo? I don’t know. I will just build it as per the trans guys plans because I don’t have any idea haha
The 4.2 lever is a good choice. If your guy knows his stuff, go with it.
Well ive heard good things about his work so fingers crossed everything goes ok. Very helpful. Anytime i need something i just text him or call and he responds within 30 mins even on the weekend.
 

aussiewannabee69

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So my first attempt at bogging went alright. It’s much more time consuming then i thought. I didn’t get a picture of it just before spraying. But the epoxy went on pretty good.

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72 Satellite

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I have started the tear down on the carbs. I have found they had the secondary hose blocked off. Is that a common thing? The fuel nuts were all stripped so i will have to get new ones of those. The metering plate was stuck on there and to get it off it’s now bent. If I don’t go with promaxx are they pretty common to buy? Also can anyone ID the intake. There are no markings

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Probably blocked off the secondary hose to increase fuel mileage. I know I did it when I was a youngster on my 69 440 6-pak Charger.
 

66Satellite47

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Ya, the blocked or disconnected end carbs was a mileage thing. Don't know how that actually worked. But we can correct that.
 

ckessel

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Do a few right leg spasm's after its together. After the spasm's stop happening, your mileage will return.
 

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