69 gtx

[69 GTX]

Thank you very much for helping! Glenwood!

 

[Glenwood]

Glad I could help.

That's how I want my engine bay to look! nice work on the brake system!

 

[69 GTX]

So here we go again Proline stuff.

 

[69 GTX]

Left hole is the one I added to get through the subframe with the brake line. I'll have to split the line so I can get it through. Then put a union in.

 

[69 GTX]

Got the pedal in, Had to dig for a while to find the MC rod bolt for the pedal. I had to use a flapper wheel to open the eye on the rod a little. used some grease and installed it. works great now.

 

[69 GTX]

While I was putting it up on stands I measured the front end travel for giggles. Measured 2.5 inches, so I should be able to hit the 5" mark pretty easy to make the cal tracs work.

 

[69 GTX]

So unpacked my new 3" TTI exhaust. Looks great. Looks like I will have to cut the ends off the tail pipes for my SS tips. So other than welding in bungs for the O2 sensors it should be pretty straight forward. The H pipe is supposed to clear the Gear Vendor OD. The X pipe wouldn't.

 

[69 GTX]

So I got the flare tool out and cut the brake line to go through the sub frame connector. It would have been easier to put the fitting closer to the connector (closer to drive shaft) to make it easier to get that leg through. It's kinda a tight short run there coming through the torsion bar crossmember. I had to slightly tweak the back part of the line to go from the rear around the offset springs & mini tubs but very little. The Pro line stuff is nice although if a guy has the time he could make his own.

 

[69 GTX]

So got to spend a little time on the car Sunday. I was working on putting the fuel lines in but ran into the same frame connector problem as the brake line on the other side. So I decide I better get the Max Wedge governor installed in the new tranny. I had CRT (Cope Racing Transmissions) build my 727 tranny with the GV OD. But forgot to mention that my car was a column shift and that I wanted my shifts close to 6,000 RPM while in drive. So he sent me the MW governor.

 

[69 GTX]

So here's the stock one on the left & MW on the right. Looks like they turned down the OD of the outside to make it weigh less so it takes more RPMs for it to overcome the spring.
So I removed the snap ring cover under the rear trans mount cover to remove the tail shaft. This is done for both the GV & stock tail shaft.

Taking it off isn't bad but reassembling it takes a little time.

So here's the stock one before removal. Remove the big snapring then the little c-clip and it will come right out. Reverse for installing. Check to make sure clips are seated and all there!

Otherwise you'll get all done and do this ^. I found I forgot to install the big snap ring after the first time together! On the flip side it didn't take near as long the second time! So tranny is now ready for installation once I get the flex plate & convertor.

 

[69 GTX]

So I started on the fuel line for the other side of the car last night. Had to split the fuel line at the bend after the torsion bar crossmember. Using a compression fitting there. As I get to the back of the car I see my mini tubs are causing another issue with fitment. Along with the offset springs. I'll make it work but in hind sight maybe I should have just opted to make my own rear lines instead of buying the preformed ones. They are great parts don't get me wrong, but just not frame connector/mini tub friendly. I'll post some pictures when installed.

 

[69 GTX]

I also made some shims to get the rear end square when I get to that point.

 

[Gpuller]

What size fuel line?

 

[HYRDGOON]

Hard to say what's gonna work off the shelf once so many changes are made to these old girls. As long as there is a solution in mind though it's all good!

 

[69 GTX]

3/8

Here are the shims I made.

 

[69 GTX]

www.spoilersbyrandy.com Found a site that has some good looking front spoilers for 68/69 RR Sat. GTX

 

[69 GTX]

Well got a little more work done on the GTX over the weekend. First finished up the front brake lines.

I still need to install the proportioning valve. Anyone have a favorite place to put one. I was thinking the line between the MC & distribution block. So it'd be easy to set.
I also got the fuel lines ran to the back.

I used compression fittings to make the sharp corner through the sub frame connector for the main line. It was going to be too tight to get the return line through the same hole so I angled it through to the other side of the connector.

Had to do some work back by the wheelwell. With it being mini tubbed there wasn't room to run it behind the lip of the inner wheeltub.

I've got it tucked tight against the well but not sure if this will be Strip legal. I may have to revisit this....

I put the 3" tail pipe up in there to see how it fit. Tight but clears everything. This is the view from the back.

This from the front. I ordered 3 ft of heat shield sheath to help protect the fuel lines from heat from the exhaust pipe.

I also worked on the carbs a little. I needed to re jet the carbs after I got it home from Jim's shop. His shop was at 5000' ft altitude and I'm at 1000'. So according to Holley I need to increase 1 jet size for every 2000', so 2 jet sizes it will be for starters. I pulled the carbs apart and documented the jets.
Here is where it was at. Looking at the carbs from the front of the engine and left side being pass. side.
rear carb
L R
92/89
center carb
62/62
front carb
89/94
Also I have a quick fuel metering block on the center carb. It has a 5.5 PV with 49 jets underneath. Idle restriction jets 28
Emulsion jets 28 (3x) I'm going to leave those as is for now till I can get the car on the road. With the help of the LM-2 I can get these dialed in. I will have a O2 sensor on each side to help tune also. Hopefully this will help me get it dialed in fairly easy.

 

[69 GTX]

Doing some rework to the Schumaker motor mounts I bought.

You can see the hole for the .5 bolt is way oversized, .7 & off center. Making some bushings to weld in to correct it. Last thing I need is 590 HP not being tied down securely. Easier to correct now than after the fact. I also had to run a tap through the welded nut as it egg shaped after they welded it. I would not buy these again!!!!

 

[69 GTX]

So I just got off the phone, Mike said that it was purely cosmetic, and no impact on function. He did state that he didn't realize they were that bad. I did mention that the bolt was not square in the mount but to no avail. But he would refund my money if I ship them back with the receipt. I did just about lose it when he told me to shut up though. He didn't want to refund the shipping charge of 15$ that they charged for shipping, but then decided to. It will be the last time I deal with them.
You can make your own conclusions.
I just hope I can find my receipt!
So I'm guessing he's thinking the clamping force of the bolt is going to secure the motor mount from moving on that side. Having worked in the R&D department for a major AG company I know that doesn't always work. I get it that tolerances are needed for production situations (AKA Detroit assm. line). Ok I gotta stop before I say something I might regret.....

 

[HYRDGOON]

I have the Mity Mounts on my car and they are doing the job. Also have a Schumacher torque strap but I had to remove it since I'm going to the Magnum Force front end