69 vs 70 b body sway bar length
- Thread starter Sedbld
- Start date
67-69 sway bar.
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Not for meSo.......2 x cubits plus 1 x span plus 4 grains.
Metric is so much easier.
Says 67-69 underneath the pic.
1130mm (1.13m/11.3dm/113cm) for the SAE-challenged LOL!
Maybe I should have replied, but I just edited the original post.
My 1970 "Jigsaw" Charger....
This is the distance between the tabs on the control arms. I modified a GM truck bar to fit the car.
Sorry, no 70 suspension parts left. They are impossible to measure on the car.
I have a '70 K w/ sway buried out in the barn - will try to get a measure tomorrow. Really, I would think the eye-to-eye dimension should be the same for both? I don't think the control arms are different? The front-to-back "depth" should be different for '70 because it runs straight east-west thru the K, instead of "over the front" like earlier?
Thanks mark Levi! That would be great if you could measure it. The 70-72 are different length because not only did they run it through the k frame but they moved the control arm tabs closer to the torsion bar side of the arm. Definitely appreciate it!
I never realized the arms were different, but that does make sense - the shorter sway bar "Lever" needs less deflection to reach the same torque if the bar diameter is the same.
I learned my new 'something' for the day - I can clock-out and go home now!!
@Sedbld
I have a spare front sway bar for my '70 Charger 500 to use for measuring.
The short answer: 38-15/16" (38.9375") from hole center to hole center (eyeballing it) while trying to hold the camera parallel to the floor and the lens down the hole centerline. Parallax is a pain.
Using a floppy steel tape for measuring was a nuisance, but I measured a bit less than 39". So, I used my long "ruler" graduated in millimeters. See below @kiwigtx:
Top picture: 1088.5 mm
Bottom picture: 99.5 mm
1088.5- 99.5= 989mm
So, 38-15/16 inches.
Caveats:
Yeah, rubber bushings go in the holes...call it 39" if you want.
I have a spare front sway bar for my '70 Charger 500 to use for measuring.
The short answer: 38-15/16" (38.9375") from hole center to hole center (eyeballing it) while trying to hold the camera parallel to the floor and the lens down the hole centerline. Parallax is a pain.
Using a floppy steel tape for measuring was a nuisance, but I measured a bit less than 39". So, I used my long "ruler" graduated in millimeters. See below @kiwigtx:
Top picture: 1088.5 mm
Bottom picture: 99.5 mm
1088.5- 99.5= 989mm
Convert to inches:
989/25.4=38.937 inches
Note: 15/16=.9375
989/25.4=38.937 inches
Note: 15/16=.9375
So, 38-15/16 inches.
Caveats:
My eyesight
Parallax (me and my camera)
Harbor Freight ruler accuracy
Manufacturing tolerance
__________________________________________Parallax (me and my camera)
Harbor Freight ruler accuracy
Manufacturing tolerance
Yeah, rubber bushings go in the holes...call it 39" if you want.
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Thank you very much DeltaV. Definitely what I needed. So it looks like a difference of about 5 1/2 inches between the two bars. So now my hunt begins to find a bar in the scrap yard.
Thanks to you all for the help much appreciated!!
Thanks to you all for the help much appreciated!!
What year is your Charger? Ok, I saw your other thread...you have a '69 Bee.
I have a 67 GTX ex weekend race car with 21k original miles , paint and 95% original sheet metal. It’s a partially cut up survivor On jack stands in the garage most of it’s life lol
Hi all just wanted to update the post on trying to get a sway bar to fit a 69 k frame that has QA1 lower control arms with 70 style sway bar tabs
It has taken a few weeks but this is what I came up with not that everyone will agree with it but there’s no option that I know of for this combination unless has a custom done bar made
i took an original 66-69 bar and bent the legs in some in the center of the leg part of the bar. I also bent the link eyes up slightly to make the eye straight. I did this by heating the bar very very slowly and on a metal working table drilled holes for bolts too hold the bar in place while very slowly bending into shape. Also had to make a small set of adapter plates from 1/4” plate that allows the bar to bolt just slightly forward of the original k frame mounting area. Going to start driving this spring and hopefully it doesn’t “spring “apart lol
It has taken a few weeks but this is what I came up with not that everyone will agree with it but there’s no option that I know of for this combination unless has a custom done bar made
i took an original 66-69 bar and bent the legs in some in the center of the leg part of the bar. I also bent the link eyes up slightly to make the eye straight. I did this by heating the bar very very slowly and on a metal working table drilled holes for bolts too hold the bar in place while very slowly bending into shape. Also had to make a small set of adapter plates from 1/4” plate that allows the bar to bolt just slightly forward of the original k frame mounting area. Going to start driving this spring and hopefully it doesn’t “spring “apart lol
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