'70 Charger Overheats after 40 minutes on highway today [but before this it did not overheat at idle or shorter trips]

[Ron H]

Your alt belt looks mis-aligned

 

[matchek]

Interesting when I got to Radiator Express I do find a radiator with ports oriented like mine (a 26 inch wide but says for a 318). SKU: 230466

 

[Ron H]

Check the other belt, not sure but appears to be running against the fan spacer..

 

[Don Frelier]

My top hose from the thermostat is on drivers side and the water pump connection is on my passenger side as shown in the pictures below. The top braided hose goes to the thermostate where at the very bottom you can see a corrigated hose which connects from the water hose to the engine block.

FYI my engine block is stamped Oct 1972.

Is this port arrangement standard for 70 Charger 440?'

View attachment 1466577

View attachment 1466578

View attachment 1466579

Your top hose is the "universal" type as well.
That's just a covering to make it look better.
NO the port arrangement is opposite of what you usually see.
If it were me I'd get a water pump housing with the standard port layout and a radiator to match.
You still might have to spend some time and effort to get your pulley arrangement aligned but it's kind of a mismatch right now.
Hopefully you get something that works better in the end.

 

[matchek]

Check the other belt, not sure but appears to be running against the fan spacer..

Thank you . The belt around the alternator does look not perfectly alighned. It does not appear that the belt is rubbing against anything . Don't know where the fan spacer is.

 

[matchek]

Your top hose is the "universal" type as well.
That's just a covering to make it look better.
If it were me I'd get a water pump housing with the standard port layout and a radiator to match.
You still might have to spend some time and effort to get your pulley arrangement aligned but it's kind of a mismatch right now.
Hopefully you get something that works better in the end.

Thanks Don. But what is the standard layout? The engine block says Oct 1972. From what I see, the water enter the bottom of the block from the passenger side. The water pump out is also on the passenger side. I hear what you are saying, but I don't know how getting a water pump supplying the drivers side would help me.

 

[Don Frelier]

This is the Mancini aluminum water pump housing, pump, bolts and you can get the heater hose nipples as well from them.
Then you can likely buy hoses for a 70 with a 440 from RockAuto or any parts store.
You might still need to work on the alignment of your alternator but maybe it will be correct after changing the housing?
Don't know about that one.

 

[Ron H]

It's the fan pully - see a black strip around it where the belt looks to be contacting it - that belt looks glazed. Mal-aligned belts affect engine efficiency and pre-mature wear on those parts water pump/bearings, etc. MO, I'd repair those.

 

[matchek]

It's the fan pully - see a black strip around it where the belt looks to be contacting it - that belt looks glazed. Mal-aligned belts affect engine efficiency and pre-mature wear on those parts water pump/bearings, etc. MO, I'd repair those.

Thank you Ron, I see the black marks. I will let the mechanice know. It does not hit it at idle and don't hear when driving so not sure if the belt was lose when it was owned by the priort owner or not.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Also why do I see so many people talking about "re-coring"? Would you just want to get a new one and be done with it?

Because re-coring is MUCH less expensive.

 

[matchek]

This is the Mancini aluminum water pump housing, pump, bolts and you can get the heater hose nipples as well from them.
Then you can likely buy hoses for a 70 with a 440 from RockAuto or any parts store.
You might still need to work on the alignment of your alternator but maybe it will be correct after changing the housing?
Don't know about that one.
View attachment 1466583

Thank you . I see the water pump actually discharges on the drivers side. I attached a better picture showing my water [corrogated] hose. Since it is corrogated, my hunch tells me that it might not be a standard hose but a generic hose to be able to contort to fit any size.


By the way, I bought a thermometer gun. At least at idle, my temperature are as follows:

At Thermostat: 196F
Radiator inlet: 177F
Radiator outlet: 157

All this time I thought I had a 180F thermostat but looks like I have a 195F thermostat. The manual says standard equipment is 190F except 318 gets a 195F.

 

[matchek]

Thank you . I see the water pump actually discharges on the drivers side. I attached a better picture showing my water [corrogated] hose. Since it is corrogated, my hunch tells me that it might not be a standard hose but a generic hose to be able to contort to fit any size.


By the way, I bought a thermometer guy. At least at idle, my temperature are as follows:

At Thermostat: 196F
Radiator inlet: 177F
Radiator outlet: 157

All this time I thought I had a 180F thermostat but looks like I have a 195F thermostat. The manual says standard equipment is 190F except 318 gets a 195F.

 

[matchek]

Because re-coring is MUCH less expensive.

By the way, is "re-coring" the same thing as "cleaning it". The mechanic said there was a guy who would clean it out for like $250 to $350 and some of the news one cost that much. We didn't talk long about it

okay, I see, re-coring is when they actually cut the radiator and put new internals. I cannot imagine that being much less expensive nowawadays with labor the way it is. I may look into it but probably will go new if had to as don't know how old the one i have is

 

[Ron H]

Thank you Ron, I see the black marks. I will let the mechanice know. It does not hit it at idle and don't hear when driving so not sure if the belt was lose when it was owned by the priort owner or not.

Maybe already posted; the lower hose looks cramped and not a great type of hose, MO. It can restrict coolant flow and possibly collapse more when hot. I'd suggest getting a pre-formed one for the setup.

 

[matchek]

By the way, is "re-coring" the same thing as "cleaning it". The mechanic said there was a guy who would clean it out for like $250 to $350 and some of the news one cost that much. We didn't talk long about i

Correction the standard Radiator for a 440 was 22" without A/C. With A/C 26". [727 trans]

With a 318 and 904 trans, standard radiator was 19".

 

[Ron H]

T-stat’s as you probably know, allow the engine to heat up more or less before opening. Pretty much ‘it’ unless it’s sticking open/closed or somewhere btw. A higher temp one is preferred in cold climates to obtain defrost/heat sooner. Since my ride sits in a heated garage and only driven during warmer months, have a 165 in it. FWIW, just some research I had done when having higher engine temps, reduced the coolant mix to around 35% and lowered the oil weight (in my case, was running stupid hi-visc oil for my motor). This was among other things I did and got the desired results.

Maybe not your hassle, but from what you have described and the replies from members, sounds like your radiator should be cleaned out and hope no need to get another one. Could try flushing it yourself first with rad cleaner if wanting a DIY try. Another tidbit, if not mentioned earlier, check the rad cap they can go skunky ensure it's rated for your system.

 

[matchek]

T-stat’s as you probably know, allow the engine to heat up more or less before opening. Pretty much ‘it’ unless it’s sticking open/closed or somewhere btw. A higher temp one is preferred in cold climates to obtain defrost/heat sooner. Since my ride sits in a heated garage and only driven during warmer months, have a 165 in it. FWIW, just some research I had done when having higher engine temps, reduced the coolant mix to around 35% and lowered the oil weight (in my case, was running stupid hi-visc oil for my motor). This was among other things I did and got the desired results.

Maybe not your hassle, but from what you have described and the replies from members, sounds like your radiator should be cleaned out and hope no need to get another one. Could try flushing it yourself first with rad cleaner if wanting a DIY try. Another tidbit, if not mentioned earlier, check the rad cap they can go skunky ensure it's rated for your system.

Thanks Ron, I did order Thermocure and was thinking about taking out the thermostat and having it run than threw it. Perhap any gunk will come out easily.

 

[matchek]

It is silver and not black but Jeggs appears to have the size , orientation, and 3 rows that I have for $285. That is cheaper to clean it by a professional.

Champion Cooling Systems All-Aluminum Radiator 1970-74 Mopar (26" Core)​

Part Number: 166-CC374​

 

[matchek]

By the way, for clarification and confirmation, for your Charger 440, if you were facing the front bumper of the car, looking toward the windshield and steering wheel, where are your radiator inlet and outlet ports located?

For reference, my entrance (from thermostat) is upper drivers side, and my exit (supplying water pump) is lower passenger side.

 

[matchek]

T-stat’s as you probably know, allow the engine to heat up more or less before opening. Pretty much ‘it’ unless it’s sticking open/closed or somewhere btw. A higher temp one is preferred in cold climates to obtain defrost/heat sooner. Since my ride sits in a heated garage and only driven during warmer months, have a 165 in it. FWIW, just some research I had done when having higher engine temps, reduced the coolant mix to around 35% and lowered the oil weight (in my case, was running stupid hi-visc oil for my motor). This was among other things I did and got the desired results.

Maybe not your hassle, but from what you have described and the replies from members, sounds like your radiator should be cleaned out and hope no need to get another one. Could try flushing it yourself first with rad cleaner if wanting a DIY try. Another tidbit, if not mentioned earlier, check the rad cap they can go skunky ensure it's rated for your system.

Cleaning out my radiator and engine block now. I removed the thermostat - it says "180A" and "7142" on the bottom thermostat post. Do you think this is supposed to a 180F thermostat?