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70 Hemi Superbird Restoration..................errr.....scratch that........

You remember I was wearing glasses right? Just need more magnification.
 
You remember I was wearing glasses right? Just need more magnification.
Lol I do. I have numerous cheaters with different focal lengths. I just never seem to have the right ones on at the right times!
 
Crank is officially on order at Crower. Lead time is 8-10 weeks so I’d better get moving on everything else. Crower said this crank would laugh at 2500hp.
 
Just wondering, what kind of HP do you think you'll be making, 1200? BTW that's a uneducated guess. Now that I give it some thought, I got about 600hp out of my 1327 cc motorcycle, so maybe closer to 1500?
 
Just wondering, what kind of HP do you think you'll be making, 1200? BTW that's a uneducated guess. Now that I give it some thought, I got about 600hp out of my 1327 cc motorcycle, so maybe closer to 1500?
Precision rates this turbo for 1200hp potential in a single application which should translate to 1800-2000 in a Twins application. My target is 2000fwhp but 1800 is way more realistic for this combo. I’m more interested in a combo that does everything well than a peak power number. I want it to idle like a kitten and scream like a lion, lol. It’ll sure be a step up from my 700hp street car.
 
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Here’s the turbo specs... they’ve got the billet CEA wheel and the ball bearing center section with standard H covers.
 
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The Peterson filter/primer showed up today. This a neat little gem. It’s primary function is a filter mount for the dry sump. The cool feature is the built in primer pump. Put a cordless drill with a socket on that hex ball and boom! 20psi prime!
 
Ok...so here’s the next overly complex project that requires more one off crap to be made... you’d think I could do things the easy way, but nnnnoooooo... not this guy. I had a buddy come over to check this out and it looks like we can do this on the CNC. Were gonna modify this dry sump oil pump by making a new back cover.
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The new cover will be modified to allow the installation of this accessory drive adapter. It will require disassembly of the pump and we’ll have to drill and tap one of the shafts.
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Once the new cover is made and the drive kit bolted to it, we’ll add this plate for the cable drive.
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After that, we can hook up the drive cable and hook that to this fuel pump....
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The end goal is to have a rear mount mechanical EFI pump that is quiet, doesn’t require an auxiliary belt drive and shuts off should something happen to the distributor drive gear/pump shaft.
 
Might check to see if the shaft is hard before trying to drill and tap. Some shafts just have a hard coat and once your past that then it's ok.
 
Might check to see if the shaft is hard before trying to drill and tap. Some shafts just have a hard coat and once your past that then it's ok.
The side of a file says it’s machinable. Looks to be a drill rod of some sort. A2 or O-1??
 
Drill rod probably, should be good to go! Great idea.
 
Do they use a wider LSA for the turbo cams?
 
Do they use a wider LSA for the turbo cams?
Generally speaking, they use small cams, lazy lobes and wide LSA for turbo cams. Cam Motion just recommended a 248/248 on a 116 for my buddy’s 555 BBC w/twin 80’s. That’s why they make great street cars. You can have your cake and eat it too.
 
Then ran into this issue...
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The pump wouldn’t fit down onto the boss as it’s body is larger than a standard wet sump pump and it hits the webbing on the World Products block. No worries though....
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A little Bridgeport action solved this problem.
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