70 Road Runner Restomod

[70RRgtxb]

I am new here and starting a New Project, a 70 Road Runner destined to be a Restomod. Good Donor Car with decent Paint and Upholstery. I Want a weekend warrior & reliable Driver… something that you could take on the “Power Tour”. I sourced a Cleveland Performance 392 w/8 speed auto, 8-3/4” w/3.23 rear. My questions to you and others:

1) Best or recommended vendors that specialize in the “swap kits”.

2) Do I need to replace the whole K member for the swap or can I just upgrade my good original by adding better disc brakes, coil overs, A-arms….?

3) Power steering is a must, is rack N pinion the ideal option? Best method of relocating the steering shaft? Brand of Tilt wheel steering column? Is there a way to integrate the 8 speed shifting action with a aftermarket column shift?

4) Headers or stay with the stock manifolds?

5) Do you have to change the oil pan?

6) The front accessory mounting kits are expensive, are they mandatory for the engine to fit properly in the engine bay?

7)Can you use the factory wiring harness (my engine is set up and running on the shipping pallet) or do you need to buy the aftermarket harness & ECU?

8)What about MDS and VVT?

9) Transmission has NO Dipstick, how do you retrofit for proper fluid fill?

10) Quality of ride is much more important than handling. Are the rear leaf springs good enough as is?

11) Will the 8-3/4” rear with an aftermarket posi-trac section handle the 500 hp?

12) What other potential pitfalls should I be looking for?

Thx

 

[ckessel]

#1. Holley, USCT[ us car tool], TTI are some companies that can help.
#2. You can stay with your existing k-frame. Check in with BAC[ Bergman Auto Crafters], one of our sponsors.
#3. See BAC for steering box. Stay far away from a Unisteer R&P conversion.
#4. Headers to fit swap can be had through TTI and Holley/Hooker.
#5. Yes. TTI and Holley/Hooker can let you know what to use.
#9. Most likely Miller Special Tools, supplier of said to Mopar, has it. It's what the dealer techs use for services. At least on older stuff.
#10. BAC and Firm Feel can set you up with upgraded, oe based units.
#11. Yes.
#7. It would be smart thinking to plan on a full, rewire/upgrade to the car. 4 wheeled computers don't get along with sketchy electrical systems.


There are full changeout suspension systems available in the aftermarket. Some really well thought out, others not. A couple of the companies have front and rear systems, but by the time you check off options etc, you're in the realm of full frame systems cost wise. If your floors and inner structures are toast, full frame is a good option. You'll probably want to set a budget and work within that. Also, how mechanically adept are you? Thats another item to contemplate for the budget.

 

[Photon440]

Good luck with your road runner, I'll be watching..
You'll find some answers in this thread: New Hemi Engine Swap

 

[70chall440]

ckessel has it pretty much nailed. I agree that you should go with a new wiring harness because the new engine will require a bigger alternator and cleaner electrics. Lots of companies but I personally like Kwik Wire, not a fan of painless.

You might want to look at Dakota Digital for a new instrument cluster. Not mandatory but will make your life a lot easier plus you can connect it to the Holley system and share data from the handheld to the instrument cluster (thinks like AFR, fuel pressure, etc.)

Source your motor mounts from whomever you source your headers from (TTI, Hooker, etc.)

You will need a new fuel system, look at Tanks Inc. for the tank, pump and sending unit.

Yes you need a full control system such as the Holley Terminator X system. This will take care of the engine. You will need to research how to control the trans although I think Holley has a system for that as well.

 

[Budnicks]

#1. Holley, USCT[ us car tool], TTI are some companies that can help.
#2. You can stay with your existing k-frame. Check in with BAC[ Bergman Auto Crafters], one of our sponsors.
#3. See BAC for steering box. Stay far away from a Unisteer R&P conversion.
#4. Headers to fit swap can be had through TTI and Holley/Hooker.
#5. Yes. TTI and Holley/Hooker can let you know what to use.
#9. Most likely Miller Special Tools, supplier of said to Mopar, has it. It's what the dealer techs use for services. At least on older stuff.
#10. BAC and Firm Feel can set you up with upgraded, oe based units.
#11. Yes.
#7. It would be smart thinking to plan on a full, rewire/upgrade to the car. 4 wheeled computers don't get along with sketchy electrical systems.


There are full changeout suspension systems available in the aftermarket. Some really well thought out, others not. A couple of the companies have front and rear systems, but by the time you check off options etc, you're in the realm of full frame systems cost wise. If your floors and inner structures are toast, full frame is a good option. You'll probably want to set a budget and work within that. Also, how mechanically adept are you? Thats another item to contemplate for the budget.

Good list @ckessel

add Summit Racing
& Mancini Racing to the list too
have a lot of good resto parts too

even Year One has some stuff worthy of getting
nobody else has, but extortion prices on the shipping
& they rarely discount anything of worth for MoPars

World, Callies or other big bore 4.5"+ Siamese 4-6 bolt main blocks

Callies cranks

lots of aftermarket out there for our MoPars now

TrickFlow 240cc std port/270cc MW port, AFR

or a tad bit cheaper & a lil' less power Edelbrock RPMs for heads,
can be ported & improved to almost TF levels, great bang for the buck

depends really what you want to do, how stock or how fast
or how good it handles, that you want to go

fill your library, before you fill your garage
lots of great books on everything
don't need to reinvent the wheel
it's been done for decades
even the MoPar Performance books are good

QA1 has some great pieces too,
you don't need to do a full tubular or coil over deal
you can piecemeal it, vastly improve the handling

Hellwig for sway bars

Bilstein for shocks

440source for strokers, or what ever engine parts MoPar, reasonably priced
Made in the USA products too, or short blocks &/or components at a great price

@PROSTOCKTOM on here for strokers

 

[70RRgtxb]

#1. Holley, USCT[ us car tool], TTI are some companies that can help.
#2. You can stay with your existing k-frame. Check in with BAC[ Bergman Auto Crafters], one of our sponsors.
#3. See BAC for steering box. Stay far away from a Unisteer R&P conversion.
#4. Headers to fit swap can be had through TTI and Holley/Hooker.
#5. Yes. TTI and Holley/Hooker can let you know what to use.
#9. Most likely Miller Special Tools, supplier of said to Mopar, has it. It's what the dealer techs use for services. At least on older stuff.
#10. BAC and Firm Feel can set you up with upgraded, oe based units.
#11. Yes.
#7. It would be smart thinking to plan on a full, rewire/upgrade to the car. 4 wheeled computers don't get along with sketchy electrical systems.


There are full changeout suspension systems available in the aftermarket. Some really well thought out, others not. A couple of the companies have front and rear systems, but by the time you check off options etc, you're in the realm of full frame systems cost wise. If your floors and inner structures are toast, full frame is a good option. You'll probably want to set a budget and work within that. Also, how mechanically adept are you? Thats another item to contemplate for the budget.

Thanks for all the resources! Pretty decent on Mechanical skills but the ole body has been “rode hard and put up wet”!

 

[70RRgtxb]

Good luck with your road runner, I'll be watching..
You'll find some answers in this thread: New Hemi Engine Swap

Thanks for the thread!

 

[70RRgtxb]

ckessel has it pretty much nailed. I agree that you should go with a new wiring harness because the new engine will require a bigger alternator and cleaner electrics. Lots of companies but I personally like Kwik Wire, not a fan of painless.

You might want to look at Dakota Digital for a new instrument cluster. Not mandatory but will make your life a lot easier plus you can connect it to the Holley system and share data from the handheld to the instrument cluster (thinks like AFR, fuel pressure, etc.)

Source your motor mounts from whomever you source your headers from (TTI, Hooker, etc.)

You will need a new fuel system, look at Tanks Inc. for the tank, pump and sending unit.

Yes you need a full control system such as the Holley Terminator X system. This will take care of the engine. You will need to research how to control the trans although I think Holley has a system for that as well.

Yes, lots to research, thanks for your help!

 

[70RRgtxb]

Good list @ckessel

add Summit Racing
& Mancini Racing to the list too
have a lot of good resto parts too

even Year One has some stuff worthy of getting
nobody else has, but extortion prices on the shipping
& they rarely discount anything of worth for MoPars

lots of aftermarket out there for our MoPars now
TrickFlow 240cc std port/270cc MW port AFR

or a tad bit cheaper & a lil' less power Edelbrock RPMs for heads,
can be ported & improved to almost TF levels
depends really what you want to do, how stock or how fast
or how good it handles, that you want to go

fill your library, before you fill your garage
lots of great books on everything
don't need to reinvent the wheel
it's been done for decades
even the MoPar Performance books are good

QA1 has some great pieces too,
you don't need to do a full tubular or coil over deal
you can piecemeal it, vastly improve the handling

Hellwig for sway bars

Bilstein for shocks

Love your Quote, I’m trying to fill my knowledge bank for sure! Ordered Joe Hinds Hemi Swap book today.

 

[ckessel]

Thanks for all the resources! Pretty decent on Mechanical skills but the ole body has been “rode hard and put up wet”!

Yours or the car?

 

[70RRgtxb]

I am new here and starting a New Project, a 70 Road Runner destined to be a Restomod. Good Donor Car with decent Paint and Upholstery. I Want a weekend warrior & reliable Driver… something that you could take on the “Power Tour”. I sourced a Cleveland Performance 392 w/8 speed auto, 8-3/4” w/3.23 rear. My questions to you and others:

1) Best or recommended vendors that specialize in the “swap kits”.

2) Do I need to replace the whole K member for the swap or can I just upgrade my good original by adding better disc brakes, coil overs, A-arms….?

3) Power steering is a must, is rack N pinion the ideal option? Best method of relocating the steering shaft? Brand of Tilt wheel steering column? Is there a way to integrate the 8 speed shifting action with a aftermarket column shift?

4) Headers or stay with the stock manifolds?

5) Do you have to change the oil pan?

6) The front accessory mounting kits are expensive, are they mandatory for the engine to fit properly in the engine bay?

7)Can you use the factory wiring harness (my engine is set up and running on the shipping pallet) or do you need to buy the aftermarket harness & ECU?

8)What about MDS and VVT?

9) Transmission has NO Dipstick, how do you retrofit for proper fluid fill?

10) Quality of ride is much more important than handling. Are the rear leaf springs good enough as is?

11) Will the 8-3/4” rear with an aftermarket posi-trac section handle the 500 hp?

12) What other potential pitfalls should I be looking for?

Thx

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Engine has arrived in all its Glory!

 

[kreauto]

Randy Bushelon Performance will quote you everything to do the swap. It won’t be cheap but will be corect.

 

[EmitRDetsaw]

Will the 8-3/4” rear with an aftermarket posi-trac section handle the 500 hp?

*pssst* - it's Sure-Grip in the MOPAR world. I'm surprised nobody mentioned it yet. Just a tiny faux pas. Looking forward to watching your progress.

 

[taylor382]

You’re not crazy, but I’d think carefully about ceiling height in the lowest areas. Drop ceilings can make already low spots feel noticeably tighter. One compromise is drywall in areas you won’t need access to and drop ceiling panels where mechanicals actually run. That way you get access without sacrificing height everywhere.

 

[Budnicks]

You’re not crazy, but I’d think carefully about ceiling height in the lowest areas. Drop ceilings can make already low spots feel noticeably tighter. One compromise is drywall in areas you won’t need access to and drop ceiling panels where mechanicals actually run. That way you get access without sacrificing height everywhere.

What are you talking about, construction crap ?
I know all to well...

But;
we're discussing a rest-mod build &/or engine & suspension components
& their worth or weight
how-to's etc. whether they are beneficial or not

some on here, just talking out their asses too

@taylor382
not sure where you're going with that post, it's the wrong thread
but carry on