70 satellite standard to Rallye gauges

[Vertburt]

Hi. I have a 70 satellite with standard gauges. I want to convert just my gauge cluster to Rallye gauges without changing the wiring harness. I can modify my dash frame and retrofit plastic pieces. My light switch , dimmer, windshield wiper are independently operated so not a problem there. I do not have to have everything working in the Rallye cluster. More for looks than function as I can add gauges below my dash for necessity. I would like to know... can u leave the circle ️ of dash wires not hooked up ? Is one a ground ? Can I use the blue wire and hook it directly to the fuel gauge and possibly a ground to make it work. Ohhh the ampmeter should direct fit also. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[70chall440]

I apologize in advance as I cannot answer your questions specifically as I do not have a Satellite harness to look at but I would say this; why would you go through all this work and not have the entire cluster function correctly? You can certainly make it work with a little research and some pretty basic tools. Both clusters essentially do the same thing and provide the same information (generally); meaning that the harness you have can be made to work with the rally cluster, you will probably have to move some wires around, add a wire or 2 but it is not rocket science or all that difficult.

Your car, your money and time but I for one would not be very happy doing all that work to have a cluster that half worked, would piss me off every time I looked at one of the gauges not functioning.

 

[Vertburt]

I just don’t have much money. I have a old superbird replica and I would like it to look more the part inside the car.

 

[JimCoronette]

I would like to know... can u leave the circle ️ of dash wires not hooked up ?

Yes. Only the amp meter wires HAVE to be hooked up (or connected together) for the car to run. The round connector is for all of the dash functionality (lights, turn signals, gauges).

Is one a ground ?

No, ground is through the chassis or sending units.

Can I use the blue wire and hook it directly to the fuel gauge and possibly a ground to make it work.

Yes. No.
The temp, oil, and fuel gauges use 5vdc from the voltage limiter (square metal can) on one side and the sending units on the other. The grounds go to the sending units.

 

[70chall440]

I would think having a Superbird replica would be even more reason to spend the time to get the cluster to work. It won't cost much if anything more than what you are asking to get it to work, a little bit of wiring, perhaps some terminals. You have it apart now, just take a little time to understand the wiring and hook it up.

 

[Vertburt]

I would like to know... can u leave the circle ️ of dash wires not hooked up ?

Yes. Only the amp meter wires HAVE to be hooked up (or connected together) for the car to run. The round connector is for all of the dash functionality (lights, turn signals, gauges).

Is one a ground ?

No, ground is through the chassis or sending units.

Can I use the blue wire and hook it directly to the fuel gauge and possibly a ground to make it work.

Yes. No.
The temp, oil, and fuel gauges use 5vdc from the voltage limiter (square metal can) on one side and the sending units on the other. The grounds go to the sending units.

 

[Vertburt]

Hey I appreciate your reply. So can u explain more about hooking the fuel gauge up independently and also do I know the color wires to make or how to make dash lights work. Thanks again

 

[Vertburt]

I would think having a Superbird replica would be even more reason to spend the time to get the cluster to work. It won't cost much if anything more than what you are asking to get it to work, a little bit of wiring, perhaps some terminals. You have it apart now, just take a little time to understand the wiring and hook it up.

Ok will do.

 

[JimCoronette]

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1970/70BelvedereGTXSatelliteRoad RunnerB.JPG

Print this out, then stare at it until your eyes are bloody red, rest, then repeat.

But seriously. It takes a lot of studying of these diagrams. I've been looking at them for 20 years and still need to reference them when I do wiring work.

What you want to do is a bit complicated, but definitely doable.

The Ralley cluster has the turn signals, high beam, oil light wired directly. You'll also need a different sending unit for oil pressure.

 

[Derwud]

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1970/70ChargerB.JPG

Easy... If you were closer I would do it for you... The only one that would leave you hanging is the Oil Pressure Gauge due to having to swap out the sensor.

You would need the Connector "Housing" for the Rally cluster. Using a terminal tool push the 5 needed pins out of the Non Rally circle connector and put in the Rally connector and then wire up the remaining and done!

 

[Vertburt]

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1970/70ChargerB.JPG

Easy... If you were closer I would do it for you... The only one that would leave you hanging is the Oil Pressure Gauge due to having to swap out the sensor.

You would need the Connector "Housing" for the Rally cluster. Using a terminal tool push the 5 needed pins out of the Non Rally circle connector and put in the Rally connector and then wire up the remaining and done!

Ok I will take mine back out and look at it. I may have more questions....like a lot more. Thank you

 

[Vertburt]

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1970/70ChargerB.JPG
Hey. I looked at the diagram, and shows the dark blue going to fuel gauge. I know that is the same color used on the standard gauges. I wonder if the other wire colors would be the same as well. Also. Does the rally cluster have to be grounded like the standard? Also. My Rallye cluster has just a clock with one terminal. Do u know how I can check to see if it works. Thanks







Easy... If you were closer I would do it for you... The only one that would leave you hanging is the Oil Pressure Gauge due to having to swap out the sensor.

You would need the Connector "Housing" for the Rally cluster. Using a terminal tool push the 5 needed pins out of the Non Rally circle connector and put in the Rally connector and then wire up the remaining and done!

 

[Vertburt]

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1970/70ChargerB.JPG

Easy... If you were closer I would do it for you... The only one that would leave you hanging is the Oil Pressure Gauge due to having to swap out the sensor.

You would need the Connector "Housing" for the Rally cluster. Using a terminal tool push the 5 needed pins out of the Non Rally circle connector and put in the Rally connector and then wire up the remaining and done!

Hey. I noticed the dark blue wire is for the fuel gauge on both standard and Rallye gauges. I wonder if the other colors are the same for both ? My Rallye cluster has a clock. Do u know how to rest it ? Do u know if the Rallye cluster has to be grounded like the standard. Thanks for you help

 

[70chall440]

The colors should be very similar, I haven't done a B body is a long time but I have done lots of E bodies and I know that the wiring is very close (color wise). I am not 100% certain but I am pretty sure that the cluster is grounded and this is usually done via the screws that hold it into the frame.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

cluster is grounded by chassis. Althought E bodies and 71 and lates B bodies got it wired too.

Becarefull with get good grounded the cluster. a failure on chassis ground will keep closed the VL points and this will make feed 12 volts straight to gauges as soon senders are conected and put the key in RUN or ACC, burning gauges

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Oh! and colors codes are the same on most of all the functions since mids 60s up to mids 70s, rallye or standard cluster

 

[Vertburt]

Oh! and colors codes are the same on most of all the functions since mids 60s up to mids 70s, rallye or standard cluster

Ok good points. !! Hey do I know how to bench test a Rallye clock. Thanks

 

[JimCoronette]

Ok good points. !! Hey do I know how to bench test a Rallye clock. Thanks

The clock runs off of 12 volts from the battery. + to the connector, - to the case. The contacts are probably welded closed in it, so if it doesn't tick right away, it has to be rebuilt.

 

[Vertburt]

Ok thanks

 

[Nacho-RT74]

clocks are points winded. When points are closed they get in short, making them open and wind the spring to make the clock spin... they last long around a minute spining or so begining to close untill points meet again and get a short again to wind the spring. This makes to not suck battery because even the electricity makes them wind, they are still mechanical.

You can test it even with a 9 volts batt. - to chassis + to prong. it will short the points and wind the spring, just by a shorter time period