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71 Charger Reborn

I have run into another body issue. It would appear that some number of years ago this spot on the passenger's side quarter panel was damaged and someone tried to repaint it. I don't know if they went a little too hard with the wire wheel or if the driver tried to fight a particularly aggressive bush, but now I have these deep scratches. I'm sure it'll show through the paint if I leave it untreated. That's always an option... just not an ideal one. Does anyone have a remedy for this?

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I'm no body man but I believe there is filler primer that would work well for this....spray it on then sand it smooth, repeat until the scratches are gone.
 
I'd DA that whole section with 80 grit till shiny. Epoxy prime then use filler on top to fix any imperfections. Then 2k primer and block.
 
If you can swing the cost go back to HF or Tractor Supply and buy yourself a Mig Welder (gas is easier than flux core). Not only can you fill those bothersome holes but you can do a ton of other tasks. I agree with you painting your car. Watch some videos, take your time with the prep, possibly see if you can rent a spray booth and do it yourself. You can probably paint the car yourself a dozen times for what a shop will charge you.
 
If it were me, I'd stop spraying or brushing that primer and go to the auto paint store and get some epoxy primer. Here's why I am making this suggestion, in 2 parts.
1: I sprayed small parts during the summer months using a 2' x 3' piece of 1/8" sheet metal on a set of horses. Always put outside when done(it was from a wood furnace so no paint on either side.). Its bn 3 yrs in & out and I can only use the side with epoxy overspray because the other it rusted every square inch.
2: I have a friend that restored a 56' chevy and epoxied primed the entire frame once the body was removed, including the rear end(gm 10 bolt with the rear cover removed) and when it was time to rebuild the rear end, he could not get the primer off the bearing caps in the rear. It was never cleaned up internally before primer, just drained of lube & wiped, then sprayed till things could get done(6 years).
This is just 2 examples of how well todays epoxy primers are, even the value line. Its worth the $ & I'm convinced. If $200 eliminates some future problems, its money well spent.
Also, I have brushed on epoxy in hard to reach areas and had good results with no issues.
You could do it right or you can do it wrong for the cost of $150 more or less...
Good luck whatever you decide.
 
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If it were me, I'd stop spraying or brushing that primer and go to the auto paint store and get some epoxy primer. Here's why I am making this suggestion, in 2 parts.
1: I sprayed small parts during the summer months using a 2' x 3' piece of 1/8" sheet metal on a set of horses. Always put outside when done(it was from a wood furnace so no paint on either side.). Its bn 3 yrs in & out and I can only use the side with epoxy overspray because the other it rusted every square inch.
2: I have a friend that restored a 56' chevy and epoxied primed the entire frame once the body was removed, including the rear end(gm 10 bolt with the rear cover removed) and when it was time to rebuild the rear end, he could not get the primer off the bearing caps in the rear. It was never cleaned up internally before primer, just drained of lube & wiped, then sprayed till things could get done(6 years).
This is just 2 examples of how well todays epoxy primers are, even the value line. Its worth the $ & I'm convinced. If $200 eliminates some future problems, its money well spent.
Also, I have brushed on epoxy in hard to reach areas and had good results with no issues.
You could do it right or you can do it wrong for the cost of $150 more or less...
Good luck whatever you decide.
The only issue I have with this is that I've already primed about 75% of the car. I had planned to do another layer of primer over the whole vehicle after the individual parts were finished. Could I spray the epoxy primer over the existing primer or would there be an issue with it not sticking?
 
Most epoxy primer can be used as a sealer, but not every EP. Refer to the directions of the EP you choose and adhere to the recommendations. Its the only way to be sure your protecting the steel. Its the whole point in using a primer.
Look at things this way, once the earth components are melted together to become the steel our cars are made of, nature is trying separate the compounds and bring them back to the earth. The only thing holding the compounds together is a "sealer" to prolong the deterioration.
Do your homework on what is best to make YOUR steel last a lifetime. No matter what we do, these cars will not be here for eternity. My suggestion is to use the best products available in our age. They're improving every year.
 
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