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72 Satellite Gen III Hemi Restomod

I'm at point where everything takes forever and my progress isn't very visible. I got my power steering hose put together and installed. Probably could have made it a hair shorter, but I didn't want it too short. Much easier to put together than the fuel hose.
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A little more work done on the battery box, but it still looks the same. Tonight I decided to mount my AC controls. It looked pretty bad. I forgot to take a before picture of the clear plastic, but I polished it as well as the knobs. Fitment in the new dash insert is acceptable, but it could be better.
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I've got some time off coming up so hopefully I'll make some good progress. I'm going to miss my goal of cranking the engine by the end of the year, but I'll be decently close.
Great progress, I am right there with you as it relates to things taking forever. I have resisted setting time goals because it makes me rush when I don't want to. A buddy of mine has repeatedly pushed me to get the engine started but I will start it when it is ready to be started.
 
I don't know what brand of rack you're using, but the Mustang II rack I'm using shows the pressure port opposite location where yours is located. Don't want to get them mixed up.

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I don't know what brand of rack you're using, but the Mustang II rack I'm using shows the pressure port opposite location where yours is located. Don't want to get them mixed up.

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I wasn't sure as they aren't marked and I didn't get any instructions with it. I called Flaming River and they said the small threads are the pressure line and the larger threads are the return line. Mine looks a little different from the one you have pictured so maybe that's why they're swapped. Now you've got me paranoid that I mix them up.
 
There can’t be much difference in how each works so it’s worth double & triple checking. If it’s hooked up the wrong way, the seals blow out.
 
There can’t be much difference in how each works so it’s worth double & triple checking. If it’s hooked up the wrong way, the seals blow out.
Yeah, that's why I'm paranoid. It looks like there are different versions depending on whether it has a serpentine belt (w/ pump) or not. Here's an additional link indicating which port is which based on thread size.

Flaming River bleeding procedure
 
On the rack fittings, make sure you get ones to match your rack. Awhile back I made the costly mistake of "assuming" they were the same as long as the threads were correct. Not. The ones I ordered had an o-ring at the fitting tip, not under the hex. I broke the seat down inside the rack and had to pony up for a new one. Some take the o-ring down inside, others up top under the hex. Lesson learned.
 
On the rack fittings, make sure you get ones to match your rack. Awhile back I made the costly mistake of "assuming" they were the same as long as the threads were correct. Not. The ones I ordered had an o-ring at the fitting tip, not under the hex. I broke the seat down inside the rack and had to pony up for a new one. Some take the o-ring down inside, others up top under the hex. Lesson learned.
I understand what you are saying. Lucky for me, RMS sent me a set of adaptor to AN fittings with the rack so I didn't have to figure it out for myself. I really would have liked a set of instructions with the rack though or at least a model number so I can look it up.
 
I got my battery box finished up and grounded and vented underneath.
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I also got some decorations for the engine.
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I worked on my cluster and made good progress.
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Unfortunately the switches are way too long flush with the panel, so I'm going to have to work something out. Right now they're hitting the cowl under the dash. While not ideal, I'm probably going to have them stick out a few inches.
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Unfortunately the switches are way too long flush with the panel, so I'm going to have to work something out. Right now they're hitting the cowl under the dash. While not ideal, I'm probably going to have them stick out a few inches.
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Glad I saw this before I bought one. Will be keeping an eye out to see how you remedy it.

Might be able to 3D print a nice rounded corner box that protrudes from the panel a bit to hold them further forward?
 
Glad I saw this before I bought one. Will be keeping an eye out to see how you remedy it.

Might be able to 3D print a nice rounded corner box that protrudes from the panel a bit to hold them further forward?
A 3d printer could fix it for sure, but the post processing is time consuming. I've got an idea I'm going to try out tomorrow.
 
A Challenger wiper switch may fit if you cut the plastic boss down it has the same thread as the B body unit .
 
I bought some 2" long steel spacers and drilled out the ID to what I needed. Along with some black nylon spacers in the back, this will work. I'm going to paint the rings and spacers black to match and then I'll be good to go.
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Something else I ran across. The guy who restored the car replaced the floor, but I guess he felt like this was good enough for the seatbelt bolts. Need to figure out that thread size now. To think I road around for over a year like this.
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I'm running a terminator x. The oil pressure is optional. I think they make an adapter for the IAT. I need the extra length anyway.
I Found the my 2022 5.7 RAM sensor works & Shows the correct temp just need to find a plug that fits sensor no 05149279AC
The GM sensor was out by 50 F

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I'm doing all the electrical now, so not much in the way of pictures. I did get my distribution blocks mounted. The relay box will mount in between.
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With the exception of my ECU, everything will get power from here.

One oddity I haven't figured out yet: the terminator X instructions say there should be a loose black wire for grounding, but I don't have one. I have the ground wire for the head, but that's different. Anybody run into that?
 
I'm doing all the electrical now, so not much in the way of pictures. I did get my distribution blocks mounted. The relay box will mount in between.
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With the exception of my ECU, everything will get power from here.

One oddity I haven't figured out yet: the terminator X instructions say there should be a loose black wire for grounding, but I don't have one. I have the ground wire for the head, but that's different. Anybody run into that?
Mines all wired 1 x main battery ground 1 x black GND on the rear of head
 
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