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73 340 blue smoke

Randy73

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I have a tick and blue smoke when I step on the gas.

Guessing valve guides and either lifters or stck valve.

So do I rebuild stock heads or aftermarket?

For bad lifter, replace lifters and rods or just lifters?

Mileage unknown, just bought the car.

TIA
 
You have more issues than just guides.Sounds like it do for a rebuild.Usually blue smoke when giving it the gas= worn out engine.
 
Sounds about right but hold off on the ticking diagnosis until you know for sure. Could be a good time for small valve LA-X heads, cam+lifters and an aluminum manifold to go along with your new carb. It would be a shame to get geared up to do all that until you know your short block is in good order and not something to do with the ticking.
 
Get a leak down/compression test done, it will tell you where you stand.Normaly if it only smokes on start up its valve train related but if it smokes all the time its most likely the piston rings.The ticking could be any thing from a bent push rod to a worn out cam.I did have a chev 350 that ran perfect but smoked all the time.I thought I'd pull the heads and send them out for rebuild and then rebuild the bottom end my self but I got lucky.The oil return holes were crusted shut with carbon and sludge and the oil sat all over the top of the heads and worked its way into the cylinders.I just cleaned it all up put it back togather and I've been driving the truck smoke free for 5 years now :)
 
Thanks guys, have not run the car long enough to see if it still smokes when hot.

Was really hoping for guides being the problem, as that was a problem for my 68 charger w/318.
 
Thanks guys, have not run the car long enough to see if it still smokes when hot.

Was really hoping for guides being the problem, as that was a problem for my 68 charger w/318.

Worn guides show up under deceleration (high vacuum), worn rings show up as you describe.
A 'tick' can be a bad/gummed up lifter, or it could also be a worn cam lobe allowing for excess clearance. If the tick is always there I'd be guessing cam lobe or possibly worn pushrod. If the tick goes away after it gets warm then it is likely the lifter.
If the cam is worn then you have junk floating around inside. If the lifter is plugged with crap then too little oil is moving.
You might want to start collecting parts for a rebuild.

.
 
Does anyone make a rebuild kit for the 73?
I see 69-71 all over.

What is the pushrod length on the 73 340?
 
The only difference between 68-71 and 72-73 340's is the 72-73's have cast cranks, small valve heads, 8.5:1 compression, Thermoquad intakes and carbs and lo-po exhaust manifolds.

A complete rebuild kit for a 68-71 340 will have higher compression pistons, bigger valves/heavier springs and a better cam. Find a set of 68-71 X or J heads with the 2.02x1.60 valves and do a complete rebuild to 68-70 spects. This is what I am doing to my 72 340 for my 72 RR.

Joe
 
Ok, thanks.

I am going w/edelbrock heads, but I need to know the pushrod length?

And what headers fit best on Edelbrock heads?
 
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