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74 Satellite Rewire

Rick

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Location
Golden, Illinois
Currently restoring the satellite and based on the condition of the existing wiring going to do some rewiring.

Took our cluster panel and one of the circuit panels had damage which doesn't really bother me since I am considering upgrading the gauges and replacing the ammeter circuit with a voltmeter.

Have used Ron Francis wiring Bare Bonz product for another project and found it to be a good product but didn't like the size of the fuse block and the price.

Thinking of just buying wiring and connectors as some have suggested in other posts but not sure how to tie the circuits into the main fuse block. Also intend to remove the bulk head connector and upgrade the fuse block.

Also this vehicle had the seat beat interlock system which someone had bypassed in the passed but left all the wiring and the relay in place.
Any suggestions of other cheap wiring harnesses and ideas would be appreciated.

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I could say A LOT about this job... I made in fact once a 74 RALLYE HARNESS CONVERSION to a 71 setup, way before I could get a complete 74 correct setup ( I mean that because 74s in Venezuela got 71 harness setup made, without anykind of seatbelt relation, more than the warning light controled by the time delay flasher, and all were standard cluster ). Once I could complete all the USA 74 correct parts talkig about interlock, buzzers, sensors, harnesses, got it back to what it was.

however, to make everything clear, you should be remove the underdash harness from car and show us close up pics. I can try to guide you step by step.

ALL WIRING is easy and cheap to fix, more that you can expect, simply that ppl uses to have not enough patiente. I have being able to do it, and I don't have all the correct materials you do in USA

Printed circuit board is fixable with a jumper wire, HOWEVER, they are available as repro. The volt conversion has nothing to do with the printed circuit board. So will need to fix or replace anyway. That missed track section comes from a ground feed. You can note the circuit board screws attached to that track, with a good ground on cluster chassis, should work the same anyway, but would be good try to fix it.

On a side note, no need for volt conversion... ammeter works very well with the correct upgrades and revisions. Your ammeter seems to be healthy by the stud, nuts and isolator conditions. But at your choice
 
How extensive will your restoration be? How much rust repair?
 
Thanks Nacho

I have some experience with wiring and kind of enjoy that in the end I know how everything is wired. I dont plan to have many add ons. Heater Blower, radio, lights, gauges and etc. So dont need to spend a bundle. I am restoring it just to drive and have fun. Not back to original condition.

DO you suggest using the original fuse block or upgrading??

- - - Updated - - -

It has a couple of rust thru at the bottom rockers surface rust, suspension and brakes need work but frame is good. The floor pan has been replaced but not professionally. I am just wanting to put it back to together, paint and run it maybe on track. The motor is a rebuilt 318 with 360 heads, blueprinted and dyno at 300 hp. The individual I got it from gave me the paper work for the engine rebuild but have to locate it.
 
The biggest issue you wil have to spend some $$ on is the proper crimp tools. People always think they can use a hardware store stripper/crimper and the results always have issues.....
 
Decided to go with a Kit from GEM

In the meantime started working on removal of the old wiring

Old harness out

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Burnt out Main Feed ling into ignition switch connector. Old overload problem wire was spliced around the connector behind the cluster panel

And a picture of the old seat belt inter lock switch. Dash wiring and controllers were long gone but signs of the frustration of getting it out still around. LOL Dumb *** politicians. Nice to know they were also around in 1974 when I was a in high school.

View attachment 209717

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