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75 Charger Hellqueen Project build

jw16

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thornton colorado
So after all my debates and research i feel i am ready to start my build. I know what im gearing for but need help deciding package to go with. FBBO has decades of well experienced mopar fans and racers so i hope this build doesnt go dead due to budget ive seen so many on. Thats why im doing motor (cheapest for me) first then body and interior as those are the most tentative and tedious for me and those im sparing no expense. My current place doesnt consist of a garage so climate and tools factorthe most in how the motor will be done.
Rather than pulling and prepping my 40 year old unrebuilt motor and getting it milled and bored etc, the heads will be pulled, maybe self ported, new valves and possibly upgrade velvetrain for bigger 2.02 valves, new cam and seals all around. Want to update any and all electrical along the way to make way for things like painless wiring kits.
i have a very good 500hp build from a very well known builder and it was on a stock stroke i beam with 318b heads with revised la bolt style.
Biggest problem with build is the extent of the porting he did, IMO was over ported but torque numbers were astounding and they used a lean burn ditsributor with 6al2 ignition. Torque was around 400 plus at just 2500 rpm! And 498 at 4800! This sold me by the sheer streetability and reliabilty of the package.... i mean who doesnt dream of a 515hp stoke stroke iron headed 360! (Actually 371)
ill find the package and link later today after work but i need to also see what needs done to my 727 to take that kind of beating... also what stall to run and differential is best. Would 355 gears be to small or should i go 4s?
it will be expensive around 3k on the cheap side put together my self, 5 if i get porting done at a shop. Trans and rear end are what will set me well passed that but this will be a slow build. I plan to run the motor for a while in between.


So here's the break down,
poor man rebuild with just top end rebuilt (after current damage inspection), new rings and everything cleaned old school... gee not that poor!
throw a cam on top of current set up on with smog heads home ported, install 355 posi or similar auburn unit and run the piss out of it at a show for fun and hopefully return a good block in a year. Then tear its guts out for the HellQueen build (i think thats gonna be her name)
After all said and done would like to strap a blower on that 500hp on that screamer but trying not to dream too big. Mainly want the reliabilty and smaller stroke the combo has so i dont ruin bearings and other horror stories i hear all the time from all these big cranks. A stock crank i rarely hear of bearing and piston failure unless running over 7k.
Sorry im so bad at writing anymore but what ever you understood give me feed back. I know these are high goals but im very tedious and patient. I want to hear motor setups and ideas as i know my set up will change as it always does. Promise to keep updated and picture worthy when work allows, and better use of grammar and writing on track (atleast when on my computer)
Late b bodies need to shine and build on..... more and more of us gone each day due to our older brethren!
 
JW

Sounds like you have a plan, but not sure if you plan to race or run on I-25 during rush hours or just cruise on Sunday. Whatever it is , you will have fun with the thin air in Denver. Not sure how you will achieve the house power, but you will have a really hot 75 Charger. What type of rear end do have or planning to install? Your stock unit is an 8.25 or 9.25. The build is about $1200 to get your gears and assemble. You on a budget good luck with the budget. These parts and labor can get your wallet too
Robert in Aurora
 
Agreed, it will take a while unfortunately. Ill get updated pictures today, its snowing however though...
As far as gearing goes im not sure if its 8.25, i think so but always thought i had 8 3/4 rear?
my unit is a 942 code? Guess i should double check. Unit will be replaced before motor work.
I did price the cost of the motor here in thornton shop..... atleast 10k they said.... about right?
with it that high of a price i may as well buy a damn crate motor and im pretty sure itll have more ponies on top. Whats your suggestions?
O and regarding the air here.... i run really rich here in denver and no problems just as long as choke is adjusted and i warm up for 5 minutes and open up the choke on its own since the electric choke sucks. But i want to dyno current setup because i had fun with an evo and atleast 300 horses i wouldve thought put up more of a fight so i need to know my current numbers first before i tear into it.
Taxes are coming in a couple weeks so thatll help

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Heres the list
block presp; short fill water jackets, main oil feeds enlarged to 9/32 in., clevite rod bearings, eagle 4340 crank external balance, scat i_beams 6.123, kb icon pistons w perfect circle rings, arp hardware
head selection and work; 318b magnum head from enginequest w revised la bolt style, rid 8mm valves for 11/32 to open up aftermarket selection, manley severe duty intake valves 2.08 inch. Diameter and 5.250 length, cnc mill bowl to venturi shape (273cfm), T&D rockers, goal of flow is 300cfm at .600 lift
final combustion chamber measures 59cc
camshaft; custom 246/244 degree duration, aggressive intake lobes and milder HRR lobes on exhaust, intake centerline angle (102) degrees,
weiand xcelerator intake (list better ones if you know of any)
holley 750hp
lean burn distributor (has no mechanical or vaccum advance)
sxhoenfield atepped headers 1 5/8th to 1 3/4 primary
CAT crankshaft damper
billet water pump housing custom fit for moroso electric water pump
515hp w 100 octane race fuel
400lb ft at just 2500rpm and max torque at 4800rpm at 495lb ft
means really quick burn outs and a fast street car with proof hp isnt in all the parts but how wen they come together!

Ps will have a video of my car since in the process of retrieving flickr info but all my numbers and things have changed making doing taxes and recovering accounts nearly impossible. May have to do a new one
 
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8.75 is a drop unit with no hardware in the rear. 8.25 has 10 bolts on the cover, 9.25 has 12 bolts on the cover. you have too much HP for 8.25, the other two should be fine, dependent upon setup and how you launch. You have a 4500 pounds + of heavy metal. Good luck
 
Nvrmnd scratch that plan i have. In my area its gonna cost over 5k and for that price ild rather do and overhaul, cam, home porting and instead of all that into motor go with twin turbos (rarely hear of this)
now i know ignition control needs to be perfectto run these, no intake or exhaust leaks to avoid detonating motor.
cant go to big obviously as it not a motor running 10000 rpm but i am curious as to if its worth two on smaller ones or a bigger spooling ones. How you go about intake manifolds? Im assuming pretty much needs to be custom fabbed as mainly big displacement motors are supercharged (dont want to on go on the easy cheap route commonly done.
i have a pretty unique b body i never see at shows so it would be nice to run a hot setup thats super unique..
i should move this thread since im so indecisive and dont want people to get hopes up.
I promise pics are soon once snow dies down :)
 
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IMAG2850.jpg
 
Check your fender tag for rear end Most common is D51 for a 318 and D52 for a 360/400

Axle Ratio Codes:

D51 - 2.71/2.76 Axle Ratio
D52 - 2.93/2.94 Axle Ratio
D53 - 3.21/3.23 Axle Ratio
D55 - 2.45/2.47 Axle Ratio
D56 - 3.54/3.55 Axle Ratio - Zone/S.O. Only
D57 - 3.91:1 Axle Ratio - Zone/S.O. Only
D58 - 4.10:1 Axle Ratio - Zone/S.O. Only
D69 - Special Order Axle
 
http://www.jegs.com/i/COMP+Cams/249/K20-600-4/10002/-1

thanks that helps a LOT!
Im curious as to what heads i may have. I am doing a cam swap soon to liven motor up (lifters will start compressing too much making noise at low rpms after a good high rpm run or rev) so whats the deal or dispute with max lift on stock springs being .450 or .500? Which is it. I hear ppl running .520 with out issues but im going to be on long trips and stuff so i dont need anything great but i have a higher rpm setup on mine and a nice even power band so want to keep up withthat. 1mph to 45 and 55mph up my car loves from my manifold and i enjoy my power band keeping up with new magnums but i need more lift and i m not surw of my stock cam specs either. Sorry if im not explaining it right.
i was looking at this cam, (its up top as my stupid galaxy tab hates fbbo)
 
We're kind of all over the place so far :)

I can tell you building the 318 to make power N/A....and then going forced induction down the road, is almost two completely different builds, and will require alot of double work, and double spending in my opinion.

If a supercharger is really on the table for your 318...i think you're getting dangerously close to a late model hemi swap $.

thats whats going in my 75 RR clone (79 monaco imoster).lol I'll be your guinea pig if needed.
 
Its a 360. I dont mind the double spending as 1000 bucks spent twice is easier for me than saving 2k due to my life situations.
Let me re center us on subject.
1st i need my cam done.... i know cam is last but my lifters are shot so why spend 80 on lifters when i can get a cam kit for 200 plus gaskets? I like doing things just once but the next 2 years it wont be feasible as i have to help family out and school. This is a backup however it needa to move and be plated often.
next heads will be addressed. Will probably build up used iron heads.
block will be last with final cam selection. This is a very long build but i promise with weather warming up i willget on it once the sucker passes emissions.
just need a cam and lifters to feed the 600cfm carb thats too big for the motor now. Its livened up so it does ok but it needs grunt
i have a parts car lined up for 1500 with 69 x code heads. 355 gears and all that so i may get that but its states away and i have no place for another. (5 cars at my house and 2 have to be parked mile away)
sooo these next two weeks will be cam swap and head gasket since its NEVER been done before :/ by me or any owner.... think its still on original timing chain.
So for now what duration would be good for a torker single plane. I have oversized runners which helps being at high altitude and running rich but i mainly want the biggest cam my head will allow with out a higher stall converter as im not removing transmission yet. Im not worried going a little over .450 dues to 1-4 rocker geometry but i do beat on it so i wouldnt want to go overboard either so thats why i figured the one i suggested above was best but should i go with less intake or exhaust duration since my exhaust valves flow like crap on my heads if im not mistaken due to smog ports and port flow.

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Junkyarding today since its nice. Any suggestions on common later model dodges or chryslers to look for it direct part interchangeability like rams and dakotas, durangos and stuff? May just grab a magnum block but that means more $in parts ..... so thats why im sticking to la blocks
 
"single plane" and "grunt" are about the 2 most opposite directions you could pull a stock CR sb..
"biggest cam without a converter" .. IF you do a cam thats small enough to keep a factory converter, you're hardly going to notice a difference. Now if you NEED one because your lifters are flat. thats another story.

and a parts car for $1500? is it a 69 cuda, or a 70 charger?lol in all seriousness.... there are $500 magnum/cordobas on here with complete, running drivelines.

I'm not trying to take the wind out of your sails, or be a jerk. But you need some direction, and guidance on what is good money to spend...and whats going to result in building a car at double the necessary cost, and then building it one more time without misguided parts like a single plane intake, big cam, and stock CR, bad flowing heads, that performs about the same as the original engine.

please take all that with a grain of salt...i'm a tough love kind of person.lol

I replaced every component on my dart about 3 times before it was "done" all because no one held my hand through it. i wish i had someone stop me at various points and explain to me that buying "this" right now...and then buying "that" at a later point, renders "this" completely useless, and needing replaced again.
 
Performance is a total package. For starter, 318 has limited torque for a 4500 pound vehicle. That's why mother Chrysler installs 440 or at less some sort of big block in a b-body with something on the side like "RT". The motor, transmission (torque converter) and rear end gearing work has a unit to reach high RPM in the shortest distance to provide HP. I'm not sure your ever going to achieve your goal with parts on your small block but good luck
 
Performance is a total package. For starter, 318 has limited torque for a 4500 pound vehicle. That's why mother Chrysler installs 440 or at less some sort of big block in a b-body with something on the side like "RT". The motor, transmission (torque converter) and rear end gearing work has a unit to reach high RPM in the shortest distance to provide HP. I'm not sure your ever going to achieve your goal with parts on your small block but good luck

4500 pounds??? That would be more like a loaded 400ci Town and Country C-body station wagon.
 
Correct TNT, this car in 2 door trim probably weights 3500 ish lbs. still much lighter than todays modern vehicles. 4500 lbs is a bit of a ridiculous statement.

The OP needs to focus on a goal, and choose parts based on function, rather than what i'm gathering to be a million different builds from all over the internet, full of completely contradicting parts. Asking if "rockers will work with this cam" is a pretty clear indication that some serious knowledge and direction is needed. hopefully he finds it here.
 
Sorry on my incorrect statement as i was just reading my fender tag gross weight number for front and rear.
And i agree i should likely move this thread as its now off topic and hiccups in life setting plans back so i apologize guys for the let down
 
To clarify what i meant to ask was if with stock rockers (1-5 ratio, read its closer to 1-4 ratio) if i go with a cam with .468 lift would if be somewhere under .450 lift as i dont want to go over it with my driving style. I dont mind sacrificing some reliabilty but i dont want it to be so tight clearance wise i get a high chance of coil bind. I plan to keep stock shaft rockers
 
SO... in the above scenario....we take a very mildly upgraded cam..and you assume the published lift (which is usually with a factory rocker arm ratio, despite whatever it is), is incorrect...and by theoretically REDUCING published lift with a 1.43 ratio, you create coil bind by REDUCING lift?
100% and completely opposite of the way it works...
I suggest you throw whatever stack of books you're reading abruptly in the trash can. lol

I really don't know how much i can stress seeking some serious accurate mechanical guidance before turning a single bolt on this car. very little of anything i'm reading in this thread is "mechanically accurate" I'm taking this as you're a younger guy, trying to learn as much as you can. But just because you read something somewhere online, or a single plane intake worked for one guy on one thread...it shouldn't take a permanent spot in your build, or your head for that matter.
 
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