Separate names with a comma.
That’s about right
Interest in selling comes and goes. A bit low at the moment as I've gotten back to finishing the other one. Bought it from a consignment lot in Allentown around 98. Previous (original) owner was in Philly.
Has been a pretty productive summer getting "the evil twin" back together. Still a few things to finish up but fired it up this morning. First time in you don't want to know how long and it was very happy about it.
They're both manual windows, manual locks, a/c, vinyl buckets, floor shift and 99% original interior. The survivor was built with slap stick and tuff wheel. Added a slap stick to the twin, almost finished cleaning up a tuff wheel for it and swapped the dash.
They were both built as 360-2, 904, 2.45 8.25 open, 11" drums. The survivor is "as built" right down to the emissions controls and is still running a resonator. The twin has an MP crate 360 LA, 727, headers and cherry bombs. Also swapped in a 2.91 SG 9.25 with disks from a 75 Imperial.
It's a lot louder than it sounds in the video.
Love those cars nice job
I gotta ask...where did you find the Imperial rear rotors? Sheer unobtanium... For the record, I love these Daytonas... Grew up in the 70s in the rust belt and ALL the muscle cars were gone and razor blades and simply not seen on the streets. When all the kids were on about the Smokey & the Bandit Fire-Trans maros and the like, I was drooling over the Cordoba, Charger Magnum cars. Closest thing to a dream car that was practical.
Way back around 1995 I picked up a pair of NOS rotors and NOS calipers through the dealer locator system. Finally got them out of the box about a week ago.
There is a member on FABO (& maybe here as well) that has them for sale.
I saw that and IIRC like $700 or $800 for the setup and not sure he listed the axle adapter as part of the package. Makes me wonder what I could get for my NOS rotors if I had been willing to part with them. Would ya believe the pair cost me like $250 in 1995? Probably didn't need the unique part number rear disc calipers as they're nearly identical to B body front calipers and the B body pads fit perfectly. I had the parking brake shoes relined because trying finding a set of those. The real fun was adapting the brake cables to work and still don't have that 100% dialed in. The C body setup is pretty much like the trucks from the same era. A single pull cable down the length of the body, unequal length axle cables and a bracket arrangement to tie them together. B bodies use an off center front cable to pull the middle of a long cable that runs down each side of the body and equal length axle cables. If I had saved the body cable from any of the C body donors it likely would have been too long and dunno how I could have tied it in to the B body front cable. To add to the fun, the passenger side setup is identical to the drivers side setup so it faces the other way around. Long story short: Original C body axle cable on drivers side, original B body intermediate cable, a 10" intermediate cable from a 2003 Lexus as an extension, passenger side axle cable from a 1980 GMC Van. Been playing around with the parking brake shoe adjusters, which are mostly identical to a drum brake adjuster, and the cable length adjusters to get the foot pedal travel right. The last hang up is the passenger side not releasing 100% and pretty sure that's the body cable binding up in one of the guides but am beginning to wonder if I have enough cable spring on that side.
Have also been putzing with the thermoquad I built and don't have that where I want it yet either. Since making this clip I installed the tuff wheel and took it off the jacks as I intend to mark up the driveway before winter gets here. Near the end you can hear some chirping coming from the rear. It doesn't start until the wheels have been spinning for a few minutes and pretty convinced that's coming from the parking brake.
I might try to give it a bit more timing advance at idle but I think I've got the rods / jets dialed in about as good as it's gonna get. Obviously I'm just tapping it.
I see you're in the factory tach club. I have one in my 77 Fury which I believe was factory as I got the car from auction in 1981. Love the Daytona, especially round headlights and floor console
I had the evil one first and it's kinda why I couldn't resist buying the survivor when I stumbled across it. Before that I put body color matched cop rims and found NOS cop car dog dishes. Trim ring TBD but was ok with the extra polycast ones I had. Now this is happening because if I'm gonna change to steering wheel to make them match....
I think I got the TQ right - this is mat the pedal. Only a 2.91 gear for now.
Dude swap in a 3.55 S/G! She sounds awesum!
BlackJack headers and Cherry Bombs - hey, they're sold as mufflers. Lumpy and loud but idles nice. It's got a S/G and I'd say it's working based on the tail slide and the marks. Gotta put some miles on it before I worry about the gears.
Some months later - finished installing the last of the NOS trim and thereby the last of the trim except the door sills that I'm not done polishing. Also borrowed plates from my other one to take it around the block. Speedo was a bit off, kick down needs a tweak, switched speedo drive gear 27 to 28 teeth after verifying rear was a 2.7. I kinda like because unlike most my survivor Daytona has a 2.7 instead of the 2.45. Or changed before I got it. Haven't looked for build sheet even after all these years. Go figure. Adapting the parking brake on the Imp 9.25 disk to the B-body cables was fun and for awhile I was convinced a weak spring on one end. After going around the block I checked my new relined e-brake shoes:
Thanks for the information on the Imp. disk brake issues. I picked up a 9 1/4 with Imp. disks brakes minus the parking brake hardware. Thought it would be neat, but after your issues and parts finding, I'll be swapping the drums over from the 8 1/4.