8.75 yoke seal replacement

[midnightrider1818]

my lip seal is leaking on my rearend. how do i go about changing that. pull out driveshaft, take big nut off, pull yoke outta seal, pry seal out and reverse for installation. i hope i can get that nut off and does anybody have any suggestions on how to keep my wheels from turning when i try to take the nut off. ill be sure to take pics of this and post on here with each step. :yes:

 

[69HEMICORONETR/TCONV]

got E brakes ? :grin:

 

[midnightrider1818]

no i dont have e brakes but i got hydraulic brakes on it on the back. i just dont have no one to hold the pedal down for me. guess i could cut a piece of wood to hold it down and put it up against my seat. any other suggestions

 

[69HEMICORONETR/TCONV]

You mean you don't have EMERGENCY brakes (e brakes) ? :edgy:

 

[Meep-Meep]

Before you do anything you should find out what third member casting you have. Last three digits are either 741, 742 or 489.

If you have a 741 or 742 then no big deal. Just R&R the yoke.

But if you have a 489 you need to be really careful because it has a crush sleeve to set pinion bearing preload. If you over tighten the yoke on re-installation you may over load the pinion bearings and cause them to fail. The only way to get it right is with an inch pound torque wrench or make a bar that bolts to the yoke and hang weight on it little by little until the pinion just rotates within the backlash. Do this BEFORE you take it apart. When you reinstall the yoke try to duplicate the original force required to move the yoke then add a tiny amount to compensate for worn bearings by tightening the nut ever so slightly more. Use a big pipe wrench to hold the yoke from turning as you tighten the nut. Do not move the nut after you established the proper preload.

 

[midnightrider1818]

well where are the digits located at on the housing. i have been on that shaft about 3 yrs ago because i had to install another yoke. well i will take pics when i start to work on it and you guys can help me through.

 

[midnightrider1818]

well i got my seal today but ended up buying two of them because i was confused. got one for 8.25 and the other for 8.75. i didnt know mopar made a 8.25 i thought it was a 9.25 diff

 

[midnightrider1818]

also shouldnt this be a suregrip rearend. when i rotate 1 tire the other spins in the opposite direction. maybe the clutches are wore out

 

[5.7 hemi]

That would indicate you have a one legger.

 

[midnightrider1818]

alright then. she is a one legger 8.75. if i wanted to though i could always buy the suregrip setup and put in the housing couldnt I.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Hell yes, then both tires could be burned down evenly.

 

[midnightrider1818]

alright. here is the progress i made so far. i got the driveshaft off now i just need to get that big pinion nut off but i will have to buy a socket cause i dont have one big enough. the biggest one i got is a 1 1/4.

 

[midnightrider1818]

more pics of the diff.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Casting numbers should be on the bottom.

 

[midnightrider1818]

alright got my seal changed today. nut is a 1 5/16. took the nut off and pryed the yoke off. got the yoke off and pryed the old seal out. cleaned up the mating surface real good around where it seals to the case. put some rtv sealant around the outside of the seal and knocked a new one in with a hammer and a piece of 2x4. grease the yoke up a little and greased it up where it ride along the seal and put it back together.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Now that wasn't so hard, was it?

 

[pkbenavidez]

is that 489 casting, and how is it working now