A shadetree installs a fresh set of 906's on the ol' 440
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It's this one here:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640720
I did have to pick up an adapter for the back of the gauge because it was a smaller inlet size, though. The part under the hood was a simple pipe nipple I put in so as to get clearance for that end of the deal. I have a thread up on here somewhere where I show some pics of the install.
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Thanks! It's been a long road, both with the car and with my health - almost 6 years now.
Glad one held out long enough to see the other.
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One more brief little video of it idling:
Thanks, I'd been thinking about something like this for a long time, I didn't know that was available. Thanks for the link.It's this one here:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640720
I did have to pick up an adapter for the back of the gauge because it was a smaller inlet size, though. The part under the hood was a simple pipe nipple I put in so as to get clearance for that end of the deal. I have a thread up on here somewhere where I show some pics of the install.
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Yessir.
A lot of folks on here advised me on this and I agree with them - it's worth it for the peace of mind. Lots of horror stories out there of what happens when those plastic lines burst inside the car.
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Much appreciated.
oldbee
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Don't remember the math but if head/block are cut the intake side of head needs cut a little for int.mani. to still line up correctly. Also one little trick to use in holding pushrods when installing rocker shafts was to straighten a coat hanger and lay it on intake side of rocker stands & all the rods are right there.
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Yep, I actually did just that.
I got the idea from a pic in the factory service manual - Chrysler apparently had an "official" tool for this!
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Well, I am honored sir!From one shadetree mechanic to the next, very nice, looks and sounds great. You have now graduated to...???
Senior Shadetree Mechanic?
I thank thee!
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Pleased to report the leaky valve cover gasket has been replaced, as has the AWOL wing nut on the air cleaner.
The loose nut behind the wheel, however, remains maladjusted.
The loose nut behind the wheel, however, remains maladjusted.
A little late but for next time. Carb cleaner cleans the brown baked on stuff much easier than brake clean with little scrubbing. Prefit the intake w/o gaskets. If the bolt holes line up perfect w/o the gasket it may need to be cut. Ovaling the holes slightly towards the top will help if it's not to severe. White Teflon thread sealer will keep oil from wicking up around the intake bolts.
Doug
Doug
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Thanks.
The intake wound up with it wanting the bolt holes to be down a little bit more than they were fitting. If I had not used the "paper" gaskets at all, it might have been borderline OK then - maybe.
I actually considered climbing in there somehow and putting some weight on the intake to squish it down just that little bit more.
I just knew I don't like using just the metal bathtub in there; I'd had leakage in the past doing that.
I even considered doing what I saw a fella do on a rebuild series on youtube, where he cut the metal bathtub totally away from the intake ports and formed it so that it would just be a cover for the lifter valley.
He just used a single "paper" intake gasket between the intake and heads because he was in a similar boat with his 383 as I was with this 440.
Made sense, but it sure was a lot of work for him to form that pan that way.
Oh well, it all worked out in the end. She's got 15HG of vacuum. I'm happy.
Thanks!
Glad you got it back together and running again. I use a cast aluminum Indy valley cover with Felpro intake gaskets.
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Yeah, I think I'm going to do something similar if I ever have to pull the intake off again - and you know I will.
I wonder if any of those valley covers will work with a stock intake?
Not sure about a stock intake, but I'd say probably not. They're made to be used with a single plane manifold. I machined off part of the bottom of my Performer RPM manifold, heat crossover. I'm using Edelbrock heads that don't have the crossover passages so it didn't matter. I've seen a sheet aluminum cover that has a depression to clear a dual plane but I don't remember where. Possibly Mancini.Yeah, I think I'm going to do something similar if I ever have to pull the intake off again - and you know I will.
I wonder if any of those valley covers will work with a stock intake?
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Yep, they have them among others and yep, most of them say "no dual plane intakes". The one you're referring to has that sinkhole looking part in the middle and says it will work with some dual planes, but doesn't mention the factory ones specifically.
Heck, maybe I'll just replace the intake next time.
Wouldn't break my heart not to heft that boat anchor again. Damn thing weighs a TON.
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I quit paying attention to the math formula for milling the intake to compensate for block and head milling a long time ago. That only works in a perfect world and there was nothing perfect in the casting and machining of this stuff 40-50 years ago! Core shift plays a huge role and you need to just do a mock up to see how things fit. Also, you really shouldn't mill the intake since it will then only be useful on that particular engine. Mill the intake side of the heads instead.
On your engine, did the intake sit high even with the thicker Felpro head gaskets and using just the steel intake gasket? Makes me wonder if the block has been decked. The factory intakes etc usually fit reasonably well when you use stock type gaskets even though I've found a few that didn't.
On your engine, did the intake sit high even with the thicker Felpro head gaskets and using just the steel intake gasket? Makes me wonder if the block has been decked. The factory intakes etc usually fit reasonably well when you use stock type gaskets even though I've found a few that didn't.
Nice GTX, love the '68s! Good work and thanks for sharing.
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