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Adding a 220V circuit into a building for air compressor and car lift.

If you are adding it to the same building (not detatched), you will need a spot for a 2 pole breaker to run wire to a sub panel or single 240v outlet. Wire size depends on Amp draw of appliance and length of run.

If the box is full you could go with single pole tandem breaker on some 110v circuits to free up space for 2 pole breaker.

You should wait until you actually have a new place because there are a ton of variables.
 
If you are adding it to the same building (not detatched), you will need a spot for a 2 pole breaker to run wire to a sub panel or single 240v outlet. Wire size depends on Amp draw of appliance and length of run.

If the box is full you could go with single pole tandem breaker on some 110v circuits to free up space for 2 pole breaker.

You should wait until you actually have a new place because there are a ton of variables
I see he has a 200 amp panel already in his building. It "should" have room for a 220 breaker.
 
I thought that I was clear but I'll try again.
My current house and shop are fine. I am not interested in changing anything here. My question here was entirely about how to add a 220V circuit to whatever new place that I buy.
I figured that the Romex connected to two + sources in the fuse panel but could not remember exactly. For some reason, I thought that maybe some panels were only capable of supplying 110V and not 220V.
My plan would be to wire a wall outlet for the air compressor and a ceiling outlet for the car lift, run the Romex wire through the attic and let it hang near the service/fuse panel long enough to fit. I'll hire an electrician to do the connection to the panel, test everything then patch whatever drywall I removed to seal it all up.
In short, I think my main question was answered and Kiwi reinforced my thoughts about letting a qualified person do the hard part.
Thank you Gents!
I understood what you were asking Kern. When shopping for your new home that will be something to remember to check out.
What size of service. The type / gauge of wire ran into the meter box.
Then once in the home what size and type of panel does the home have.
All electric draw has to be taken into consideration.

If you only have 100 or 150 amp feed to the home plus many amps being used like AC, water heater , freezer , fridge , cook stove ,clothes dryer, hot tub , ect
All that has to be figured in.
Then the distance from your new home to the new shop. The longer the run of wire the gauge of wire has to increase.

Aluminum wire vs copper. Copper will carry more amps farther than aluminum size for size.
I'm no electrician I have asked my brother who is. He said many times another disconnect box with its own main breaker is mounted near the property meter Then a run is made from that box to your new shop and panel.
Glad you will get a electrician once all this happens, one other thing I will suggest not electrical but sewer line wise.
Have the sewer line camera inspected before hand or if in the country inspect the septic system.
Good luck on your home search .
 
I thought that I was clear but I'll try again.
My current house and shop are fine. I am not interested in changing anything here. My question here was entirely about how to add a 220V circuit to whatever new place that I buy.
I figured that the Romex connected to two + sources in the fuse panel but could not remember exactly. For some reason, I thought that maybe some panels were only capable of supplying 110V and not 220V.
My plan would be to wire a wall outlet for the air compressor and a ceiling outlet for the car lift, run the Romex wire through the attic and let it hang near the service/fuse panel long enough to fit. I'll hire an electrician to do the connection to the panel, test everything then patch whatever drywall I removed to seal it all up.
In short, I think my main question was answered and Kiwi reinforced my thoughts about letting a qualified person do the hard part.
Thank you Gents!
Wow, that sounds pretty Micky Mouse to me! You'll hire a electrician and get it done right and to code or you won't do it at all. You will never regret doing it once and doing it right.
 
question, but I think I already know.......

a 220 breaker is essentially 2 110 breakers combined....... correct?

so in order to have it connect to both L1 and L2; the spaces in the box are set up like this?

L1 L2
L2 L1
L1 L2
L2 L1
L1 L2
L2 L1
 
question, but I think I already know.......

a 220 breaker is essentially 2 110 breakers combined....... correct?

so in order to have it connect to both L1 and L2; the spaces in the box are set up like this?

L1 L2
L2 L1
L1 L2
L2 L1
L1 L2
L2 L1
Basically, but they either have a single handle with an internal common trip or at the very least a "handle tie" that opens both poles simultaneously to avoid a single phase condition at the load device.
 
question, but I think I already know.......

a 220 breaker is essentially 2 110 breakers combined....... correct?

so in order to have it connect to both L1 and L2; the spaces in the box are set up like this?

L1 L2
L2 L1
L1 L2
L2 L1
L1 L2
L2 L1
From what I understand, the 220 he needs is single phase which both come off the same lug. You electricitians out there correct me if I'm wrong. If you take 110 from each side it will be 220v but will be 2 phase. All the 220 breakers in my service panel are fed off the same side. I need to go downstairs and pull the panel cover and take some pics?
 
question, but I think I already know.......

a 220 breaker is essentially 2 110 breakers combined....... correct?

so in order to have it connect to both L1 and L2; the spaces in the box are set up like this?

L1 L2
L2 L1
L1 L2
L2 L1
L1 L2
L2 L1
Correct. L1 and L2 lugs connect behind a 2 lug breaker.
square-d-main-breaker-boxes-hom4284m200pc-64_600.jpg
 
Usually set up like:
L1-L1
L2-L2
L1-L1
L2-L2
 
my question was about how the box and legs are set up, not about the breaker....... but now I see it gets a little more complicated than what I was thinking?
 
From what I understand, the 220 he needs is single phase which both come off the same lug. You electricitians out there correct me if I'm wrong. If you take 110 from each side it will be 220v but will be 2 phase. All the 220 breakers in my service panel are fed off the same side. I need to go downstairs and pull the panel cover and take some pics?
Residential is single phase from the transformer. If you hooked into two L1 lugs, you still only get 110.
 
It does get a bit confusing:
3 hots and a noodle are called
3 phase, 4 wire.
2 hots and a noodle are called
1 (single) phase, 3 wire.
It was explained to me once a long while ago but I really don't remember the physics.
 
From what I understand, the 220 he needs is single phase which both come off the same lug. You electricitians out there correct me if I'm wrong. If you take 110 from each side it will be 220v but will be 2 phase. All the 220 breakers in my service panel are fed off the same side. I need to go downstairs and pull the panel cover and take some pics?
No.... As Threewood stated... L1 & L2 = 220... L1 & L1 = 110...
 
just woke up, half way through my first cup of coffee; and already learned some good stuff :luvplace:
 
I got really involved with learning this when I was planning to wire my shop. If you really want to be bored, purchase the NEC (National Electric Code) and read through all the codes lol
 
just woke up, half way through my first cup of coffee; and already learned some good stuff :luvplace:
OK, now all you have to do to is offer to replace my lower quarters!
:drinks:
(joking of course but I have seen your work in these posts!)
 
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