Adjust valves after engine/camshaft break-in?

wasco

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I have about ten miles on my fresh 383 now, and took the car into get an alignment done yesterday. Unfortunately, they found a couple front suspension components that need to be replaced first, so I took it back home. I noticed some lifter noise once or twice when I didn't quite get enough gas to it, which is normal for a manual, but I was surprised anyway. I had done the standard 30 minutes above 2000rpm and everything went well.

I started looking into the break-in process instructions for Comp Cams and immediately got concerned. I'm looking at the instructions (Comp Cam CL-23-223-4 flat tappet, hydraulic lifter) and they say "remove the inner valve spring or use low load springs". I looked to see what my Edelbrock Easy Street aluminum heads use for springs and they are Edelbrock 5792 Sure Seat Springs - single coil. Comp Cams says 110-120lbs seat load, 260-270lbs open load. Edelbrock says the 5792 is rated for 120lb installed pressure and 320lbs Open Pressure. Edelbrock also lists the 5792 spring as for "cast iron heads only" but use them on their aluminum heads?

Do I need to adjust valve lash at all after initial break-in or after 500 miles or ?

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wasco

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Well now, that would have been a good thing to think about before posting this! OEM rockers and rocker shafts were used, so I would guess those aren't adjustable. I'm not quite in a Mopar frame of mind yet - still have GM brain and that old '67 396 I used to run in my Camaro. I guess that's the beauty of hydraulic lifters and the rocker shafts - no real adjustment needed/possible? Thanks for your patience with my slow learning.....
 

gtxrt

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what is your preload. might need longer push rods.
 

66Satellite47

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OEM style Mopar hydraulics are not adjustable. You have what you have.
 

wagonman

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Just make sure the lifters and pushrods spin. You can verify when pre oiling and turning the engine over to get oil to the valve train. Lighter springs won't hurt either.
 
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