aftermarket 6pak jets/sqirters

[poppa]

What would be a real close combo? Have no info on motor from former owner. Looks clean/rebuilt. Bored to max ,maybe a cam. 440 4spd. Need info for outer carb jets and all 3 squirters. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm going to try install this weekend. Thanks

 

[lewtot184]

factory 6-paks didn't have jets or squirters in the end carbs. aftermarket mechanical carbs had #80 jets in the rear carbs and #64 jets in the center. all the center carbs had .031 squirters with the white 218 pump cam. i down size the squirter in the center carb to .025 or .028 with tubes and a white pump cam. the little center carb doesn't need a big squirter. if using the mech end carbs a .028 or .031 squirter with the white cam should be plenty. i use #65 main jets in the center carb with headers and #63's or #64's in the center with cast exhaust manifolds.

 

[poppa]

factory 6-paks didn't have jets or squirters in the end carbs. aftermarket mechanical carbs had #80 jets in the rear carbs and #64 jets in the center. all the center carbs had .031 squirters with the white 218 pump cam. i down size the squirter in the center carb to .025 or .028 with tubes and a white pump cam. the little center carb doesn't need a big squirter. if using the mech end carbs a .028 or .031 squirter with the white cam should be plenty. i use #65 main jets in the center carb with headers and #63's or #64's in the center with cast exhaust manifolds.

Thanks for the fast reply. Front same as rear ??

 

[lewtot184]

Thanks for the fast reply. Front same as rear ??

front and rear are the same on mechanical carbs. vacuum carbs are different front and rear from the factory and cast iron manifolds had a stagger on the rear carb.

 

[440+6]

You can get a metering plate from quickfuel and others that allow you to screw in standard Holley jets in the front and rear carbs to fine tune them.

 

[poppa]

front and rear are the same on mechanical carbs. vacuum carbs are different front and rear from the factory and cast iron manifolds had a stagger on the rear carb.

Should I stagger mine then ? It's a cast iron manifold. What would it be then?? Thanks

 

[lewtot184]

Should I stagger mine then ? It's a cast iron manifold. What would it be then?? Thanks

do you have vacuum or mechanical carbs? how stock is the engine?

 

[poppa]

do you have vacuum or mechanical carbs? how stock is the engine?

They are mechanical. I don't really know anything about the engine. The guy I got the car from had nothing. I was going to rebuild it (have a different block for later) but when I started to disassemble everything looks like new. Cam ,bores (at max) ,no signs of sludge (very clean). I'll do the other block when time/cash permits. Thanks

 

[noosacuda]

My mech-secs on a 500 stroker have 67 jets in centre and 72's in the out boards, not sure on shooters though, but all 3 are annular discharge, with 30cc pumps.

 

[lewtot184]

They are mechanical. I don't really know anything about the engine. The guy I got the car from had nothing. I was going to rebuild it (have a different block for later) but when I started to disassemble everything looks like new. Cam ,bores (at max) ,no signs of sludge (very clean). I'll do the other block when time/cash permits. Thanks

if the carbs are list # 4782 and 4783 (i think i'm correct on these numbers) use 80's in the end carbs and 64's in the center. if somebody stuck some 500cfm 2bbls on the ends then probably somewhere between 72-74's. a picture of the carbs would help.

 

[poppa]

Hopefully the pics come up.

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You are correct on the carb numbers.

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I need to know about the vacuum lines too. There is one vacuum source coming from the base of the center carb and two places that need (??) vacuum. The choke pull off and the piece sticking out of the center metering block. Thanks

 

[lewtot184]

use 80's in the end carbs and 64's in the center. pretty sure thats what they came with from the factory. the choke pull off needs a hose to connect to a nipple on the base plate. the nipple on the metering block is for the vacuum advance. i think one of the end carbs float bowls is wrong. look at the placement of the sight hole screws on both bowls.

 

[poppa]

Good catch on the sight hole ,never even noticed that. Should I set the level to that bowl or to the others? I will have to watch for a different bowl. Hopefully it goes on today. Thanks for all your help. I do appreciate it.

 

[lewtot184]

i haven't used those carbs in many years but i'd probably set the float level similar to the back. usually the lower sight plugs are for secondary bowls on a 4bbl carb (vacuum 6-pak carbs use a secondary bowl on the end carbs with the lower setting). i'd set the end carb level to the bottom of the sight hole and the front carb the same plus a 1/4 turn.

 

[poppa]

Thank you for all your help. I just took it for a "test" ride. (insert big smiley face icon here) WOW ! And it is just how we set it up for initial. Unbelieveable difference. Those tires light right up without hardly trying. And ,didn't even try but chirped them going to second. It runs better than it ever did with that Carter on there(was on there when I got it). No bog ,no miss ,just giddy up. I will be "dialing it in" real soon but, I don't know if it really needs it. I'm letting it cool off now and then I will recheck and make sure everything is tight and probably take another "test ride" .
I ended up with a 65 in the center and a 28 shooter ,the outs have 80's all around and 31's for shooters. Remarkable.
Mixture (center metering block) are only about 3/4 out. What a difference. Thanks again....

 

[lewtot184]

Thank you for all your help. I just took it for a "test" ride. (insert big smiley face icon here) WOW ! And it is just how we set it up for initial. Unbelieveable difference. Those tires light right up without hardly trying. And ,didn't even try but chirped them going to second. It runs better than it ever did with that Carter on there(was on there when I got it). No bog ,no miss ,just giddy up. I will be "dialing it in" real soon but, I don't know if it really needs it. I'm letting it cool off now and then I will recheck and make sure everything is tight and probably take another "test ride" .
I ended up with a 65 in the center and a 28 shooter ,the outs have 80's all around and 31's for shooters. Remarkable.
Mixture (center metering block) are only about 3/4 out. What a difference. Thanks again....

the irony to your testimony is that there are still people out there, and on this website, that don't believe multi carb is a better way to go. i've been using 6-paks since 1970 and there isn't anything in a street/strip combo that is better. my '65 coronet with a mildly modified 440+6, 3.23 rear, automatic, will flat blow the tires off in 1st gear from a roll and doesn't chirp the tires in 2nd but squalls them.

 

[poppa]

Thanks again. I still can't believe the difference. My first order of business is to figure out why my idle screw has to be turned in so far. It idles fine and runs great but I initially had the idle set where the butterfly was just cracked a little open ,I had to turn the screw in quite a bit to get it to idle. Starts right up and shuts down right away. I don't think it is idling on just the idle circuit.

 

[lewtot184]

i thought there were some curb idle screws on the end carbs,...? keep in mind that the center carb is basically the same size as a 273 2bbl and you have 440 cubes. the 440 will need more air. ignition timing curves could play a part in how much throttle opening is needed for idle. if the transfer slots are uncovered at idle then the engine will probably run crappy at low rpm. float level will definitely affect A/F ratios.

 

[poppa]

Yes there is a curb idle adj on the outboards. Do all three play a part here? I have to pick up a a/f meter this week also.

 

[lewtot184]

back in the day i used to set the end carbs with a feeler gauge between the throttle blades and base plate. i don't think you need to jump thru those hoops. just crack them open a little.