Aftermarket heads push rod clearance experience

[peabodyracin]

If this question has already been addressed, my apologies. Tried searching here and didn't come up with anything specific. I'll try and be brief:

I'm looking at aftermarket aluminum heads for my fresh 440 (3 passes last fall). I've been running 906's for years and years. Was really interested in the smaller combustion chambers/improved flow offered by aftermarket heads. Looked at Trick Flow and Edelbrock RPMs. Also looked at 440Source and had looked briefly at Speedmaster.

I'd purchased a new set of ProMaxx heads from a private party a year or so back, but was soured on them when I realized how much grinding I was going to need to do for pushrod clearance. I put my trusty 906's back on and traded off the ProMaxx heads.

I'm running 3/8" ball and cup pushrods with a .550" lift solid flat tappet. I don't twist the engine beyond 6700 RPM. 440Source mentions the likelihood of needing to clearance some in their FAQ section. They mention Edelbrock sometimes needing the same. Trick Flow specs indicated they'll take 3/8" push rods but I'm then looking at longer push rods and offset rockers (which they indicate are out of stock at present). I was also concerned about a possible change in overall head height because I'm already very close on the driver's side clearing the master cylinder. I'm intrigued by angle plugs because that would ease a long term clearance issue I've had on #7 cylinder and the steering column. The Edelbrock specs indicate 3/8" push rods. Then there's the question off 7 vs 10 degree valve locks. The RPM's come with 7 degree.

I've also looked at a couple sets of used aluminum heads locally but it seemed every other set I looked at had at least one epoxy repaired runner. I realize core shift can contribute some to this issue, but have to admit I'm not psyched up to spend hours with a die grinder. I seem to keep drifting back to the RPM's. I consider this a low budget exercise. Don't want to tie up $5K in a new top end for a car that typically runs one nostalgia event a year.

So I'm asking what your experience has been with push rod clearance. Thanks in advance!

 

[pnora]

Every combination has its differences. Expect to do grinding. Years back I bought stage VI heads from Muscle Motors for a 71 year 440 block. I found grinding was necessary. I contacted Chuck at MM and his reply was simple. You are building a motor and with performance parts there are modifications needed for them to work. Things are not stock anymore. You are building a motor not just bolting one together. The same heads and valve train had no issues on a 400 block. Most all aftermarket blocks have been CNC machined for a lot of the needed clearances. However you still need to mock up and inspect all clearances.

 

[rickseeman]

Going to aluminum heads is going to cost you. With that in mind, my vote is to get what you want and not think about the money right now. Get the Trick Flow 240's. If you get less and have to come back and buy the 240's later it will end up costing a lot more.

 

[Bird 426]

After installing Edelbrock Jr's on my Hemi, I had to grind the pushrod holes in the block for clearance. Yes, you modify what you have. On my SB stroker with trick flows, I went with 5/16" pushrods, if I went with the 3/8" pushrod, I would probably have had to touch up a few contacts in the cyl head.

 

[PRHeads]

My experience with the Ede heads is that 3/8” pushrods fit with 1.5 rockers, sometimes.

With 1.6 rockers they’ve always needed grinding.

 

[1KoolBee]

With Stealth heads and 1.6 rockers, I had clearance issues until I switched to Harland Sharps for Eddy Heads. Then p-rod clearance and geometry issues magically disappeared.