Aftermarket k frame with stock suspension?

[Squeezy]

71 satellite, /6 to 440 conversion.

I just got the 6 banger out, and after extensive searches I haven’t found specific details on an aftermarket kframe with all other stock components.

I’d like to keep the torsion bars.
Tubular control arms would be nice
Front disk conversion
But would NOT like to do a full $6000 front end coil over swap.

So for mounting the engine I could do Schumacher conversion mounts, but figured if there is a better modern kframe that adds space and will let me use most other stuff it might be worth it.
Any ideas? Just trying to decide if I clean up the old one or convert it to a stronger/lighter modern version and use bigger torsion bars.

 

[pnora]

Just find someone parting out a car with a v-8, and discs. You could get the K-Frame, torsion bars, disc brakes and all the odds and ends. Going to a aftermarket k you will spend lots of money quick.

 

[dvw]

The factory K frame is plenty strong. Check for any cracks arounnd the steering box and torsion bar anchors. Easy to weld a bead there if needed. Check to make sure the drag link isis lparallel to the ground. Sometimes the idler arm bracket needs to be heated and bent up or down to make it prefect. The center of the K rframe can be trimmed quite a but for oil pan access. Some tubuler upper arms offer additional adjustment. But beware; Adding positive caster lowers the outer tie rod. Add to much, and bumpsteer will occur. Also the arm has to be removed to make those adjustments. Then the question is how far do you adjust the arm before reinstalling it? To far or not enough, go to the alignment shop and it will have to be removed if the desirable range can not be achived. The lower arms can be easily gusseted for aditional strength for handling in road race/ auto cross. For most of us the stock stuff will do a good job. The stock stuff weighs nearly the same, and as far as control arms can actually be lighter. This is an example of a maximum trim of a K frame to lightening it for drag racing. Still plenty strong. Car has seen over a 1000 wheel stands.
Doug

 

[6PKRTSE]

If retaining relatively stock suspension. I would not bother with an aftermarket K frame. I would just modify and weld solid the production K frame as DVW has. His car runs good numbers and a good example of how it shows what more you can do with less.

 

[cal30_sniper]

I put a QA1 K-frame (and lower control arms) in my 72 as part of my 6.4L swap.

It’s lighter and stronger than the factory piece, and opens up a ton of space for headers, steering box work, etc. for the price, i think it’s a decent upgrade.

Im sure a stock K could be welded up to an equivalent level of strength, but will then end up even heavier. If you’re a competent fabricator/welder, that is an economical option to consider though.

My only “complaint” was that I had to do some trimming around the motor mounts to get the wide Milodon road race pan to clear. That will require some plates welded back in and touch up paint to be applied before it goes together for the last time. One can hardly fault an aftermarket part for not working with another odd-use-case aftermarket part though.

Find one on sale and do it. If you need to swap Ks anyways, save the hassle on potentially buying a pullout that’s already been abused/bent/etc.

 

[70ChargerRT]

I’d take the advice of finding a V-8 aftermarket K-frame. If you plan on racing it any or just beating it up there’s a few places you can add some strength to them and they’ll take it. I got my hands on a Qa1 K- frame several year ago and it was trash and didn’t realize the horrible sway arm design either. Wouldn’t even line up on my car to bolt it up lol. If someone made a good aftermarket K-frame with torsion bar design I wouldn’t care to buy it. Maybe somebody does by now, IDK.