Air Conditioning & Dynamat

[snakeoil24]

Anyone with knowledge on this subject greatly appreciated. I want to retrofit my 67 coronet with modern rotary compressor, condenser, switch, drier and evaporator into the orignal air box. Also use a version of Dynamat without paying the high price for Dyna mat. I looked at Bouchillion perfoprmance for compressor, brackets and various parts. Any recommendations?

 

[YY1]

If you still have your old stuff, don't sell that RV2 short.

My 73 OEM stuff, converted to 134 will freeze you out.

MUCH colder than my 2000 Dak!

Prior to the sanden style comp coming into widespread use, the Mopar/Airtemp system is what originated the term "ice cold air".

 

[snakeoil24]

I don't have original compressor.

 

[RogerDodger]

I didn't want to pay for the Dynamat either. I used a foil type wrap for a hot water heater tank from the big box store with some good foil type hvac tape. Pretty happy with the results. I only did under and around the back seat.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I don't get it. I'm usually the FIRST to squeal about price, but I don't see dynomat as so expensive for what it does. I plan on even puttin it in my rat rod truck.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I've heard FatMat is the same stuff, but almost half the price...

 

[snakeoil24]

I don't get it. I'm usually the FIRST to squeal about price, but I don't see dynomat as so expensive for what it does. I plan on even puttin it in my rat rod truck.

Let me explain it to you then. Dynamat is way over priced!

 

[RustyRatRod]

Let me explain it to you then. Dynamat is way over priced!

Can you give me an example? Because honestly, what I have found I didn't consider to be all that bad. I don't know that much about it, so I might have been looking at the wrong stuff. I know they have several kits available.

 

[Propwash]

I bought 100 SQ FT of Rattle Trap in a kit for $200. Installed it on the floors, wheelhouses, roof interior, inside doors, inside of quarters forward of the wheelhouses. Probably could have got away with 75 Sq FT. Easy to install/shape. Good luck whatever route you go.

http://www.fatmat.com/bulk/rattletrap/100.html

 

[snakeoil24]

Fat man price is 1/2 i looked last night. Use the 50 square foot role for an example.

 

[RustyRatRod]

That looks like good stuff. Like it conforms real nice.

I bought 100 SQ FT of Rattle Trap in a kit for $200. Installed it on the floors, wheelhouses, roof interior, inside doors, inside of quarters forward of the wheelhouses. Probably could have got away with 75 Sq FT. Easy to install/shape. Good luck whatever route you go.

http://www.fatmat.com/bulk/rattletrap/100.html


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[DWinTX]

I used the Eastwood stuff on my wife's 99 Miata when I installed a new stereo in it. That car is like a tin can, resonance everywhere. The mat quieted it down a lot.

 

[jessipup]

Another vote for the eastwood and if you hit thier ebay site you can get it on sale and they will pick up the shipping. I did all of my nonvisable areas in the roof and floor. And in Texas I actually doubled it up on the floor. It was a lot of work, two things to watch out for 1. don'tbegin to think you are just going to throw down a big sheet and that will be it. You want to make sure it completely conforms to every nook and crannie. Like all of those depressed lines and in the body plugs. I feel the only way to make sure there will be no rust is to make sure there is no trapped air. I would not go near the hardware store flashing type products many of those have an asphalt base in thier backing. Asphalt + heat = stink and poor adhesion. I would only use a product with a buytle rubber backing.
I am extreemly pleased with the product the heat resistance, especally over the hump and above the pipes is fantastic. The sound deadening is killer too, maybe too good. Now I'm thinking about running straight pipes so I can hear em. And the way I did it no one will ever see it, but boy it works.

 

[Propwash]

That looks like good stuff. Like it conforms real nice.

You bet RRR....Easy to cut and form. Sticks real well. Comes with a roller. I'd buy it again.

50SQ FT should get your floors cover and thensome Snakeoil.

 

[Grabinov911]

I used a product called StP on the floor of the car - similar to what Prop did (It's only halfway done in the photo, eventually went all the way up under the dash). I DID use Dynamat on the doors because I found that it was a little easier than the StP to get into the nooks and crannies, and because they have a ready-to-go door kit. Very pleased with both...

 

[RustyRatRod]

Just a question for those who have this on the doors. How do you access the inside of the doors? Do you just have to cuta hole and repair with some left over?

 

[HT413]

Just a question for those who have this on the doors. How do you access the inside of the doors? Do you just have to cuta hole and repair with some left over?

yeah, i was thinking the same thing. I always thought if u did the doors, it was on the back side surface of the door skins.

 

[bluefury]

I've heard FatMat is the same stuff, but almost half the price...

I used the fat mat, (called rattletrap), in my chrysler 300 and it works great. Identical spec's to dynamat and just about 1/2 the price.
I bought a 50 sq ft roll and used almost all of it to cover the entire floor, (69 300 conv). Got it off ebay with free shipping, and they even included a application roller and box knife. All you need is a good heat gun to install.

I'd recommend it to anyone

 

[RustyRatRod]

yeah, i was thinking the same thing. I always thought if u did the doors, it was on the back side surface of the door skins.

That would be a difficult install....but it sure would fix the problem.

 

[Propwash]

Just a question for those who have this on the doors. How do you access the inside of the doors? Do you just have to cuta hole and repair with some left over?

yeah, i was thinking the same thing. I always thought if u did the doors, it was on the back side surface of the door skins.

I put it on the inside of the door skins on mine. Limited as far as the size of pieces that can fit through the openings, but just had to take a little extra time and puzzle together several pieces instead of one or two big ones. Somehow or another I could see having to have access to inside the doors, so didn't want to dabble with removing or cut and repairing to do it. To each their own I guess.