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Aluminum roller upgrade question

I'm sure it would be stronger. But the issue is, it shouldn't have happened unless the adjuster was loose. No way the rocker should be that soft. I guess another possibility is the threads were cut incorrectly to start. How did the adjuster feel? Smooth? Binding? I'd pull them all apart for a good inspection of the threads.
Doug
Actually now you mention it, it seemed like was binding. Had 2 like that. Like the pitch was out a hair??
I have stock stamped on them now, but would like to try these again. Had another post on this deal last fall. Just following up with thoughts in strengthening them.
 
One thing that's most important is torquing the lock nut to the Mfr's. spec's.
Different hardnesses of aluminum would change the torque I would imagine.
As far as the Helicoil, it's alot of labor for an experiment! Head bolt or Main
bolt, yes. Rocker arm? I don't think so. Good luck.
 
One thing that's most important is torquing the lock nut to the Mfr's. spec's.
Different hardnesses of aluminum would change the torque I would imagine.
As far as the Helicoil, it's alot of labor for an experiment! Head bolt or Main
bolt, yes. Rocker arm? I don't think so. Good luck.
These are cheap rockers so I doubt they have a spec. Im sure if it ask, they'll have something. But considering the cost difference more than double for other brands, may not be a crazy experiment. At least its not Speedmaster, but close.....
 
Often the adjusters were never really cleaned/ checked/ finished when they come with new rockers. I go over them very carefully to clean burrs etc, and make sure all adjusters go in and out easily. That's failure 1. Failure 2 is over torquing the lock nut and ripping the threads out. I guess failure 3 would be that the aluminum is too soft, I've never seen that.
As far as aluminum .... all of the best rockers are. For the most demanding applications.
No they’re not ….

Proprietary Alloy Steels are comparable in

Weight with what the valve sees. ….

And removes the chance of work hardening


Question? Why do all the alky racers change

Out their billet aluminum rods after a specific

Number of runs ?

Mopar2ya!

John
 
No they’re not ….

Proprietary Alloy Steels are comparable in

Weight with what the valve sees. ….

And removes the chance of work hardening


Question? Why do all the alky racers change

Out their billet aluminum rods after a specific

Number of runs ?

Mopar2ya!

John
From 12,000lbs force trying to fly off the end of the rod at 130 times per sec? But the rods are still aluminum despite this :lol:
Luckily the rockers in 95% all bracket cars aren't subject to similar strains as a rotating assembly
Merry Christmas to you!
 
Q.

I've had 2 roller rockers on 2 seperate engines already fail with the adjuster bolt stripping in the aluminum. I realize the cheaper brands may have this problem more often.
Can I install SS helicoils in each rocker to stop a potential future problem? Thoughts or experiences?
If enough meat is still OK then a helicoil should work. Many times, I find that the real reason the adjuster threads strip in the rocker is when making a valve adjustment the locking nut get overtightened pulling the threads in the rocker arm. When working on engines in my shop that have wear or a stripped threads anyway, I find the ones not stripped are super tight.
 
One thing that's most important is torquing the lock nut to the Mfr's. spec's.
Different hardnesses of aluminum would change the torque I would imagine.
As far as the Helicoil, it's alot of labor for an experiment! Head bolt or Main
bolt, yes. Rocker arm? I don't think so. Good luck.
A Helicoil is a 5 minute job. I'd try fixing the ones that had bound up threads and let it fly.
Doug
 
Save up and buy a good set. I wouldn't trust any of them after that.
 
I actually was going to do all of them. What the heck...lol.
I just have a tough time spending $1400CAD for rockers. If I could beef up the $400 ones to be better than new, worth a shot.
 
Have a good trip, I’m following this thread to see if it works. I will dig around the garage here and see if I have an extra set of crane gold still. F I still have it I will send you a Pm if you want it.
 
I can't find the aluminum alloy ProForm uses..it just says aluminum which isnt really a great sign? If its not 2024-T6 Aluminum the threads are likely even more vulnerable to being stripped from overtorqueing the jam nut. It looks to me that is likely what happened. You could try a helicoil, but its going to be tough to keep it from not spinning right out. Certainly try the bad ones first, not much to loose on those. My first choice would be buy a single and replace the rocker with one just like it and use a torque wrench on the jam nut to try to prevent it from happening again. I wouldn't spend to much time on them though. Proform's are rated for 500lbs springs max. That is about half the rating of a quality made aluminum roller rocker. It stinks that shaft rockers are pricey..but you get what you pay for in this area.
 
Hum..great catch. That's why im in the forum...lol. never would have looked at that. Seemed pretty easy to get replacements considering we're put if warranty by a year. I just didnt get to the build as you remember last fall post on the fiasco during breakin.
Can't anyone buy decent parts these days without breaking the bank..lol.
Honestly for a street engine, stamped will be just fine. And safe now I think about it. Maybe 425 hp with the package combo.
Thanks.
 
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