Another intake thread

[33 IMP]

If you're gonna keep the 71 intake, save some money and buy the 440 source heads. The benefit of the trick flows over an average aftermarket head will be completely thrown away using a weak intake. Why put a 180cfm intake on a 300cfm head?

 

[RR Fan Dan]

I meant a picture of the air cleaner

See post#19

 

[BSB67]

Surprised that it is so tight against the bulge hood. All 440 cars have a bulge hood?

You could modify the air cleaner base, but it does look like there are other impacts in doing so. Are you keeping the heating duct to the air cleaner snorkel?

Lowering the K-member is an option too.

Modifying the factory intake is an option.

Only you can decide the balance between performance/cost/effort.

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

Looks the CH4B and Performer might work. I say might. Because the Torker II with a 2” filter barely fit. The stock dual snorkel is 3”. The stock OEM gave me the 1” I needed. The difference in the CH4B and performer vs the Torker is ~0.5”. Somebody with a 73/74 bulge hood and stock 3” air cleaner please chime in.

Old school CH4B should be the aluminum version of cast iron factory intake in the day by Mopar and tricked out some (center divider)

 

[BSB67]

Can’t use the dual snorkel

Obviously you wouldn’t

 

[BSB67]

Old school CH4B should be the aluminum version of cast iron factory intake in the day by Mopar and tricked out some (center divider)

The M1 dual plane is the aluminum version of the factory cast iron. The CH4B is considerably different in height, cross sectional area, and naturally, volume than the factory unit.

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

The M1 dual plane is the aluminum version of the factory cast iron. The CH4B is considerably different in height, cross sectional area, and naturally, volume than the factory unit.

Learned something new Personally I’ve liked the old Muscle Hustle catolog recommendations and worked well on the day on the stock cars

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Thinking out of the box here….can you port the 71 intake like the FAST guys do?

 

[Doorkicker]

Well...the main point for the TF heads is airflow. If not using a performance intake, it's kinda a waste. I would think rpm performer would be a min. If you go original iron... you're not going to take any advantage of the heads or cam.

 

[lewtot184]

from my continuing experience with a stock iron intake they quit around 4000rpm with a stock displacement engine. you may rev them higher but they're not doing anything. good off idle/mid-range intake and that's about as good as it gets.

i know the goal says 700hp, but i didn't notice exhaust preferences, specific camshaft, or am i just missing something. BSB67 may have best experience with really wringing the power out of this.

i'm a pretty conservative guy on most stuff if anybody has followed me. i've thought about the big inch stuff more than once. i don't think i'd get to far off the reservation to build a pump gas thumper. if one is to take into consideration that a stock hipo 440 only nets about 325hp and that it's fairly easy to make noticeable gains without losing reliability and spending a lot of cash. if someone was build a 425hp/525lbft of torque 440 that would definitely have a wow effect on the butt dyno over 325hp. just simply putting an "arm" in it would really raise the pucker factor.

this is something i thought about doing; mostly because i do have parts. i was thinking a 498 pump gas engine. i have a 6pak or ch4b but would probably do 6pak. i have a set of stage 5 heads that will flow as good as ootb edelbrocks, some new 5140 i-beam rods (have h-beams too if needed). all i need is crank and pistons. i'd do kb251 pistons (would need to trim the quench domes a little). also a modest flat tappet cam that would work ok with cast manifods. i did a performance trends dyno simulation on this (nothing scientific, just playing around) and got about 460hp/550 or so torque. one of my car's nets about 525lbft of torque/ 450-475hp net (just guessing) and it can be a handful thru 1st gear so what in the world would i do with 600+ anything?

so if i was doing this project i'd just keep it simple. i'd do 440 source heads and maybe send them to PRH racing heads for a tune-up. use a ch4b with 800avs2 to keep stuff looking stock and keep the air cleaner, maybe keep the cast exhaust for stock appearance, and a moderate camshaft. pistons will need to match up to the heads. with almost 500 cubes something like this would have gobs of reliable street power without running the credit cards up.

 

[33 IMP]

Well...the main point for the TF heads is airflow. If not using a performance intake, it's kinda a waste. I would think rpm performer would be a min. If you go original iron... you're not going to take any advantage of the heads or cam.

... or that expensive stroker kit.

 

[33 IMP]

I think that if your determined to build a stroker with good heads, and still HAVE to use the dual snorkel.....
I'd build it on a 400 block, and use a street dominator, and mill the carb pad down a bit till it all fits under the hood.
The 440 deck height will compromise how tall/how good an intake you can use.

 

[BSB67]

... or that expensive stroker kit.

…….or the camshaft capable of the 700 hp….

 

[RemCharger]

…….or the camshaft capable of the 700 hp….

You mean a 509 won't be the hot ticket??

 

[RR Fan Dan]

The benefit of the trick flows over an average aftermarket head will be completely thrown away using a weak intake.

The 71 intake is no slouch.

Old school CH4B should be the aluminum version of cast iron factory intake in the day by Mopar and tricked out some (center divider)

@BSB67 says no it’s not. So maybe someone else can confirm it is or it isn’t.

Obviously you wouldn’t

Well the whole point of this thread is to use the dual snorkel.

The M1 dual plane is the aluminum version of the factory cast iron.

Then the factory cast iron is just as good.

Thinking out of the box here….can you port the 71 intake like the FAST guys do?

I’ve been thinking about this option too. Might just go this route.

I would think rpm performer would be a min. If you go original iron... you're not going to take any advant

The 71 intake flows as good if not better than a performer.

I think a lot of you guys are missing the point that this 71 factory intake is the best flowing 440 intake Chrysler ever built. It ranks in the top 5 when put up against the others mentioned here. I wish I could find that comparison article with the dyno numbers.

 

[496 polara]

I ran the ch4b on my 496 and it had no problems pulling 6000rpm and beyond with a small solid lifter cam. It had been deep port matched by Hughes Engines years ago. I have a street dominator with the same treatment that someone had milled the carb flange a little (maybe for hood clearance as I can't think of any other reason). Milling the carb flange down to stock height of either would get you the clearance without giving up the better flow and lighter weight.

For a stroker I would generally recommend the single plane. I ran the ch4b on mine as it was in a heavy C body. I ran both and it idled better and had more low end with the dual plane in the heavy car with not much stall and 3.55 gears.

Porting the intake will be a huge plus as well in the stroker category.

 

[forphorty]

I have a 73 RR and it has a factory dual snorkel air cleaner on top of a Holley 4150 on a Torker(original not 2) intake ....but it's a 400 not a 440. My advice: build a B instead of an RB and space the K member down if needed. Remember, the 73+ B Bodies have the Iso-crap suspensions and if the bushings are shot the body will sit lower over the engine. I would absolutely NOT run an iron intake on an engine like you plan to build.

 

[RR Fan Dan]

My advice: build a B instead of an RB

I already have the 440, I’m not ditching it

Bodies have the Iso-crap suspensions

My car will have the aluminum solid mounts

 

[RR Fan Dan]

Old school CH4B should be the aluminum version of cast iron factory intake in the day by Mopar and tricked out some (center divider)

The 71 Mopar intake has a center divider. The only difference I see between the 71 OEM and the CH4B is aluminum vs cast iron. The 71 probably flows just as good as the CH4B.

 

[forphorty]

I already have the 440, I’m not ditching it

My car will have the aluminum solid mounts

I agree on the 440 since you already have it. I have the solid K member mounts as well. Maybe some shims added might give you the clearance you need.