Any benefit to a tubular K-frame that retains T-bars ?

[Dave6T4]

Clean it up and repaint it with Krylon Aluminum paint, so it LOOKS lighter. Follow me for more weight reduction tips! LOL.

 

[oldkimmer]

For my 65, I'm using a 70 unit. 3 reasons why I chose that over the 65 one are: double shear mount idler arm[ also easier to source for replacement] as its stronger than the bayonet bolt unit, pass through the frame sway bar mounting, moves the engine back 1.5". I did extensive welding, reinforcing on it. The usual areas like for the lower control arm shaft but even more extensive, steering box mount. I also boxed in the strut rod mount area. On the perimeter spot welds, there were around 30 from the factory. I added 120+ to that. Some of those are in the idler arm mount area. Lots of hole cutting with my Blair Rota Broach cutters. Pieces of metal I have in my stash plus my Lincoln Mig unit. Very little cash outlay, buts lots of time. As Greg and others who are into construction point out about shear walls and nailing patterns for such, my added welding was essentially making a stiffer unit like more nails in the shear wall.
On the tubular ones which are popular, some years back I went by the QA1 booth, while attending the SEMA show, to ask them about their's. I asked the rep a basic Mopar question. What happens when you put a floor jack under the unit to lift the front of the car? He had to ponder that a bit. Then he said, as long as you bridge across both tubes you should be ok. Should be ok is not an answer I wanted to hear.
This may come across as not embracing the current selections available. I'm not. The new stuff may be lighter, but at what cost? What's the gain/benefits compared to the cost/longevity/parts replacement? The oe stuff puts up with massive amounts of abuse on a daily basis. Bad roads, smacking potholes/curbs/Dukes of Hazard etc over 50+ years of use. I personally have not seen any feedback of said questions/concerns over extended, non trailer/non driven time due to season conditions[ ice, snow etc]. As an example of current offerings, although more high end, the units from Heidts look well done. Have seen their units at SEMA. Once you factor in units like these, plus the likely add on for the rear and you haven't done anything in the middle of the car, you're in the realm of just putting in a full frame from Roadster Shop/ Schwartz/ Art Morrison. One common complaint about one the popular tube offerings is that you turning radius increases.

SEMA 2025: Heidts Pro-G IRS, IFS For Mopar E-Bodies

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In pic number 4 it doesn’t look like u left enough room for the lower control arm pin to fit against the K. Kim

 

[ardentind]

Other than cleaning up the welds and stiffening the steering box area. The only other things I would consider is reinforcing the strut rod holes and replacing the press fit pitman arm attachment flange with a 68-70 u shaped yoke style attachment. Much less flex and better pitman arm availability if you want to use the longer pitman arm for faster ratio steering.

Good info. Thanks for mentioning this...I will definitely do this to the factory K-frame.

 

[ardentind]

Thanks all. I think I will take advice from you all and tidy up the factory unit. May be a project for a later date. If I did, I would 3D scan the original unit, then model the new one to mimic the original, all while having a fixture to check throughout the process.

I will be making upper control arms. I used to make them for the A-bodies but never liked the tubular ones with such a small weld contact patch on the upper ball joint threaded bung. This time around, I will be building them similar to what you see in off-road desert racing. Sheet material, laser cut and formed, slots and tabs to align everything, internal bracing, etc. Why? Because I have the equipment to do it AND...to be different.

For reference, heres a build I did back when I lived in CA, before moving to Idaho. Sold it just before finishing it so I could move. Sure wish I could find it to buy it back. I dont wanna hear about it not being a Mopar!!!
Pro Touring Build

Thanks all!

 

[ckessel]

In pic number 4 it doesn’t look like u left enough room for the lower control arm pin to fit against the K. Kim

I made sure the shaft fit. All good. Thanks for the keen eye!