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anybody here using eddy ESTREET heads? 75cc?

Flat Top Pistons with no valve reliefs I would assume ?

What you really need to find out is , pulling your old heads off first and measuring , finding out how far those pistons are in the hole

383 Sealed Power Forged Flat top pistons .015 in the hole , no valve reliefs

.039 Head Gaskets

Mopar 284 - 484 Camshaft that had been running within that 383 / Factory 906 heads for over twenty years

Forward last summer - Installed

Eddy E Street 75 cc heads with a larger intake and exhaust valves over a factory head

Everything else the same

Kissed two intake valves on those flat tops within 200 miles

Bottom line running any flat top piston with no valve reliefs , really limits your camshaft selection with any larger valve head

Now I have a 432 Stroker / 440 Source Kit within that same block , same Eddy E Street 75 cc Heads that has not seen the street yet because of WI Winter
 
What work has to be done with bare castings?

From Edelbrocks web site;

TECH NOTES: Edelbrock heads are sold individually (except Flatheads, E-Street & E-Series small-block applications)- check listings for details. Bare heads will have valve guides and seats installed, but will require final sizing and a valve job to match the valves you will be using. Recommended spark plugs for most street applications are Champion RC12YC.”
 
Flat Top Pistons with no valve reliefs I would assume ?

What you really need to find out is , pulling your old heads off first and measuring , finding out how far those pistons are in the hole

383 Sealed Power Forged Flat top pistons .015 in the hole , no valve reliefs

.039 Head Gaskets

Mopar 284 - 484 Camshaft that had been running within that 383 / Factory 906 heads for over twenty years

Forward last summer - Installed

Eddy E Street 75 cc heads with a larger intake and exhaust valves over a factory head

Everything else the same

Kissed two intake valves on those flat tops within 200 miles

Bottom line running any flat top piston with no valve reliefs , really limits your camshaft selection with any larger valve head

Now I have a 432 Stroker / 440 Source Kit within that same block , same Eddy E Street 75 cc Heads that has not seen the street yet because of WI Winter

Great advise, .....for a 383 with the 2315 piston. And measuring is always the right thing to do.

But, It is a 440. It has less piston dwell time at the top.
Also, at best, the tallest flat top 440 piston w/o valve relief will be 0.060" in the hole. And that's with a 0.020 cut on the block. Uncut block, 0.080" to 0.090" in the hole, again, that's with the tall piston. Otherwise it will be 0.150" to 0.180" in the hole.

If your going through the effort, target the highest compression ratio you think your gas can tolerate with appropriate safety margin.

I tossed your numbers into a calculator. If your pistons are 0.080" in the hole, you use a 0.027 gasket, you'll be at 10:1 CR. If your pistons are 0.100" in the hole, which the Silvolite 1263 piston will probably be, you'll need to mill the heads to 70 cc to get to 10:1.

At 10:1 CR and the Bob K. cam in it and you should be able to get by with premium pump gas. The only thing you'll be missing is a good quench, but you're not going to fix that w/o new pistons.

It should run real nice, IMO
 
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I went with E Street heads on my build from Hughes engine you got a question on your build them guys can help you out
 
just a reminder
do not try the 10:1 with open chamber iron heads
unless a race only- race gas type build
 
What's the line for closed chambers on 93 pump? I was thinking 10.5 but not sure.
Is there an ideal volume for optimum quench?
 
Is there an ideal volume for optimum quench?
Quench? Not more than .050. Running tighter is limited by piston to head contact. How much stretch there is in your rod and such. I limit the tightness of the quench to a .039 gasket unless it have superior rods and etc... I have been as close as .028. A distance I do not recommend with most con-rods.
 
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What's the line for closed chambers on 93 pump? I was thinking 10.5 but not sure.
For an iron head engine with 93 octane available as the highest grade at the pump, I would first say a lot has to do with the cams timing events. Without knowing that, a reasonable and conservative ratio is 9.0-1 max. With street performance cams, 9.5-1 max. Race type cams, 10-1 max.

At least this has enough area to allow for the 93’ovtane to operate with excellence as well as not so excellent 93. AKA, old/bad/lower than advertised octane rated gas.

Understand that there is little improvement in power with 1 or 1-1/2 points of comp ratio worth having on the street. Because when you do get sub par gasoline, you’ll be cringing and crying at your engines pinging and crying for help & mercy to the next gas station with real gas.

True! Others have run higher ratios and moved cam timing events around to help. How far do you want to push the envolope?

Fuel chillers?
Piston and cylinder head coatings?
Coat the valves?
Work the intake and coat it?
Limit timing on the distributor, which is a big power killer!

Work the rest of the system for more power. It’s there and it’s not in a high compression ratio.
 
Of course the OP is talking about aluminum heads. A little confusing all the iron head CR recommendations. The Bob K. Cam is small, but has a little later intake closing, relatively speaking. 10:1 c.r. should be fine w/ alum head, that cam with pump premium at sea level. Have your trusted engine guy confrm before you start spending money
 
yes when i go thru with it, i will have the pistons measured down in the whole. Id want to do it right this time around. As i get closer to that point i will let everyone know, making sure i get the best info

Thanks guys for the input!!
 
I put 75cc Estreet heads on my 440 for the same reason...needed to raise the compression on a motorhome 440 in my altered wheelbase street car...pistons were almost .180 down in the hole. I used early 440 sealed power forged pistons which had a taller compression height, and stock type mopar steel shim head gaskets.....car has been on the street for 3 or so years now and runs good. I don't beat it and don't remember the cam specs but it sounds awesome and runs good with an aluminum intake and a 750 Holley. I don't remember what i ended up with for compression...but was hoping for around 10 to 1.
Ive been told over and over that I'd have to use multi layer steel gaskets when installing aluminum heads on an iron block because of the different heat expansion rates. Have you had any trouble with sealing or leaking? Did you coat the gaskets with anything before installation?
 
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