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Like P-S-T, Horchkiss, Mancini? How do you like them? Any do's or don't's? Thanks BIGS
I have a pair of the Hotchkis in mine. The only issue I had is after you bolt them in and set the rear mount in the lower control arm there is no way to turn the strut to adjust it due to the tapered seat. Looking at the PST one they appear to have a fastener that goes through the LCA and looks like you could loosen/remove the bolt and turn the strut for adjustment. Here is a link to a previous thread http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...ut-rods&highlight=Adjustable+front+strut+rods
They don't have left & right hand threads, like a tie rod end? Just asking.
No, the threads are standard RHT. You have to determine the overall length and install the front end then the rear and lower control arm together. Once the rear mount is set in the control arm it wont turn. Maybe you could get a pipe wrench on it and turn it, but there are no flat spots or hex to get a wrench on it. I set mine for the same length as stock and came out good on the alignment. Check out the pics in the link I posted and you will see the difference between Hotchkis and P-S-T.
Just a question. Why are yall usin adjustable strut rods on a Mopar?
Looks like points for P-S-T right now......
Using the Hotchkiss here as well.... if you need to change the length after install to adjust front end alignment, you have to back of on the nut on backside of lower control arm and break the taper lock...no big deal...had to do it a couple of times , but once front end is set up, you can leave it alone. Splicer
How did you break the "taper Lock" without loosening the LCA and torsion bar?
I did not use them, but I installed pst poly front end parts on my 64 sport & 69 Roadrunner. The lower control arm bushings have a thicker front flange ( for lack of a better word ) and it made my lower control arm set 1/4 farther back. My front end dude said he would like to get more caster in it but he couldn't. I to like more caster than stock, as it is better ( for me ) for highway driving.
Adjustable strut rods allow for more positive caster, helps steering wheel return to center
The problem though, is the LCA should be perpendicular to the pivot pin and torsion bar line. By using adjustable strut rods your LCA bushing is getting jacked. The adjustment is made in the upper a arm. Why not just get aftermarket upper arms that allow for greater adjustability.
Here is what I came up with. You have to loosen the bushing end but you don't have to loosen the control rod end. You can get an inch of adjustment either way but, by that point something is probably wrong. They are also 7/8" thick so they are less likely to bend. Haven't installed them yet, and it will probably be a while. Was going to go with the heim joint but I have heard stories of K members cracking.
That's what I thought and guess what? That's WRONG as all hell for a Mopar front end. The lower control arm is by design limited to be perpendicular to the center line of the lower control arm shaft. Any movement fore or aft of that point results in binding of the bushing. Adjustable strut rods are NOT a correct means of adjusting caster on a Mopar. I don't give a fig how well they're made or who makes them. Like they say....a fool and his money are soon parted. I think some of yall need to learn a bit about alignment before buying stuff. - - - Updated - - - Puzackly. And I am sure some front end parts "salesman" will be along in a jiffy to tell us all how their product does no harm. Yall just keep on buyin it.
I just wanted to fine tune my front end. My strut rod was bent and measured flange to flange was around 17" I think. I just want to make sure I can get the lower control rod on center so the A arm can be properly adjusted. It may not be "17" " it might be 17 1/16". Just want to be able to dial it in right not try to force something that wasn't ment to be.
That's what I thought and guess what? That's WRONG as all hell for a Mopar front end. The lower control arm is by design limited to be perpendicular to the center line of the lower control arm shaft. Any movement fore or aft of that point results in binding of the bushing. Adjustable strut rods are NOT a correct means of adjusting caster on a Mopar. I don't give a fig how well they're made or who makes them. Like they say....a fool and his money are soon parted. I think some of yall need to learn a bit about alignment before buying stuff. Maybe our sponsor P-S-T could throw in 2 cents here ....
What I'm trying to say is that these cars are old and everything is not perfect and parts wear.(especialy old style bushings.) If you have the means to adjust your strut rods to keep the control arms perfectly perpendicular to centerline why not. That way the rest of the suspension can be properly adjusted. Plus, mine like others i've seen are bent so I wanted something a little more stout.
The only thing the adjustment would be used for would be to assure the control arm pivot centerline is perfectly perpendicular with the control arm pivot. My "fool and his money" comment was only meant to say that buying them for caster adjustment is incorrect. Nothing personal. I'm sure the adjustable rods are higher quality than stock stuff.....BUT if the stock rods have the control arms accurately located, then the only real upgrade that needs to be done would be poly strut rod bushings to reduce fore and aft movement even further. I looked on the PST site and nowhere does it say the adjustable strut rods are meant as a caster adjustment. The only way that could be accomplished would be if the LCA pivot was replaced with a ball and socket joint where it could pivot on several different axis at the same time.
You can effect wheel alignment with our adjustable strut and I do agree with rustratrod that it should not be use to correct a extreme caster issues on a mopar as the pivot shaft is a fixed point and would result in binding and premature wear of the lower control bushing. But in some instance (As we are dealing with 40 year k member that may possibly be tweaked or suffer from frame sag) the strut rod offers the ability for slight adjustment that are needed. Don’t get me wrong if your caster is way off this is not the fix all. But the other benefit of the adjustable strut rod is the articulating ends at the k member. Our strut rods eliminate flexing and binding at the k member. The result being free motion up and down which allows for faster weight transfer in corning situations and a smoother ride.
James, thanks for your 2 cents. In this ad here on your site: http://www.p-s-t.com/s.nl/it.A/id.7548/.f?sc=12 Am I correct in assuming that the joint at the front is a heim joint? I cannot tell for sure, but it sure looks like it. Just that one feature alone might make them worthwhile. That would remove an asston of friction from the bushing area and only give the bushings fore and aft, instead of up and down.