Anyone streaming Tidal or Apple Music? Anyone using an app or software to record and playback music from those sources?

[biomedtechguy]

I get Apple Music from Verizon and it's available in "Lossless" format which is CD quality audio. Tidal takes it a few steps higher if you subscribe at the highest level, which I just subscribed to, but at $20/month, I think I may wind up with the Apple Music only, unless I find some "easy" ways to record (keep) the Tidal Music and play it back in the higher resolutions.
I've used a free trial of a 3rd party program with my Microsoft Windows Surface Pro 4 tablet, and it is easy to record music from both Apple Music and Tidal, move the tracks or albums to a flash drive and play back from that. I also have an original Chromecast AUDIO unit on the way that should allow me to stream 96/24 level audio from either service and I'm ok with that resolution.
My home audio equipment has no HDMI audio capabilities, so I have to use either digital optical or digital coax in to my equipment for playback. I can also stream Tidal via my Oppo BDP-105D unit, but it's slow and "clunky" and frustrating, none of those characteristics are something I want to contend with when I'm trying to get my "groove on".
Both my "living room" audio equipment and my Home Theater equipment is high caliber enough for me to hear the difference, especially between MP3 or so level audio and SACD level.
Any comments are welcome!

 

[slepr1]

I subscribe to YouTube Premium and get unlimited downloads. The YouTube Music App supposedly gives better quality playback. I don't know if the quality is what you are looking for. I have a pretty good home theater and it sounds good to me.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I subscribe to YouTube Premium and get unlimited downloads. The YouTube Music App supposedly gives better quality playback. I don't know if the quality is what you are looking for.

Quality is EXACTLY what I am looking for, AND a way to get the high quality digital audio IN to my audio equipment. I selected the absolute best equipment from 1990 to 2015 that I could afford, much of it having passed through my hands over my A/V and Home Theater career.
Sampling rates and Bit depth of 44kHz to 192kHz and Bit depth from 16 to 24.
I will post up here later some of what has worked for me.
Lots of newer equipment has streaming services built in, or a HDMI connection that allows for a high quality HD audio source to connect and pass a streaming audio signal to the D-A converters and then amplifiers.
I have to use an optical or coax digital connection from my source to pass the digital audio signal into my receiver.
I have high hopes for the Chromecast AUDIO unit that is ordered.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Well..no replies so I guess I will post my learning curve since the original post.
I have some of the BEST audio equipment that I either read about or sold/installed in my 20 year career in the business, which ended in 2009.
I have been trying to find out how to get high resolution audio from my streaming services (on my Android phone) IN to my older electronics.
I bought a Chromecast Audio device (2015-2019) and it works great. Digital optical out, IN to either my receiver optical in OR my Oppo BDP-105D multi-disc player/streamer (limited to Pandora and Tidal for music) and it has a great decoder in it, as does my receiver.
I just received a 2nd way of accomplishing my goal, with a brand new device that has greater flexibility and features than the Chromecast Audio device, but it also has the Chromecast function built in. The WiiM mini pro is $149, and it is a hit with "people in the know".
The reason why I am not using the Tidal streaming built in to the Oppo is it's unreliable, and drops out too much.
I discovered that any audio signal above 48kHz will not allow the Sony receiver to play back stereo in 2.1 AFD audio mode, so that means only my 2 front speakers play with 96kHz or 192kHz top quality audio, which was a big reason for my "quest".
HOWEVER
I can play those highest quality audio signals into the Oppo, and using its decoder, play 2.1 on my receiver using the multi-channel Analog inputs from the Oppo.
I find that's too much to go through, and it seems like I lose a bit of bass in my front speakers that way. I may use that for full "albums" by tweaking the relative volume of the front 2 speakers and subwoofer in the Oppo's settings, but the most likely scenario is I will limit the audio to "CD quality" (which is still VERY good) and just play directly into the Sony. I was listening to a Yes Studio mix in CD quality and it was crisp, clear, and noise free.
That's it, I know it seems "geeky" but I do have some killer equipment and love listening to music, and streaming in CD quality or better is like having an unlimited music collection at my fingertips!

 

[YY1]

All that tech stuff goes out the bit bucket after a certain point if I'm not at work.

I rarely even hook up my surround rear speakers any more.

...but I agree that Yes, specifically 90125, is a GREAT audio test piece.

 

[Xp29h]

I get Apple Music from Verizon and it's available in "Lossless" format which is CD quality audio. Tidal takes it a few steps higher if you subscribe at the highest level, which I just subscribed to, but at $20/month, I think I may wind up with the Apple Music only, unless I find some "easy" ways to record (keep) the Tidal Music and play it back in the higher resolutions.
I've used a free trial of a 3rd party program with my Microsoft Windows Surface Pro 4 tablet, and it is easy to record music from both Apple Music and Tidal, move the tracks or albums to a flash drive and play back from that. I also have an original Chromecast AUDIO unit on the way that should allow me to stream 96/24 level audio from either service and I'm ok with that resolution.
My home audio equipment has no HDMI audio capabilities, so I have to use either digital optical or digital coax in to my equipment for playback. I can also stream Tidal via my Oppo BDP-105D unit, but it's slow and "clunky" and frustrating, none of those characteristics are something I want to contend with when I'm trying to get my "groove on".
Both my "living room" audio equipment and my Home Theater equipment is high caliber enough for me to hear the difference, especially between MP3 or so level audio and SACD level.
Any comments are welcome!

Bio,

I’ve got a complete recording studio in my basement. Been doing it for a long time. I’ve used Protools recoding software but currently settled with Cubase pro vers 10.5. The reason I mention this is because when one is setting up the input recording parameters, one has a choice of options. 44, 96 and beyond. Also a choice between 16, 24 or 32 bit float. With the digital world, in recording the music it is very unforgiving unlike the old tape way.

Unfortunately, our human ears are inferior to where the digital music can go. For example, we really can’t hear below 20 hz. We recognize them as infrasounds and they still can certainly affect our hearing. Digital music and its possibilities are fantastic but our ears won’t be able to really keep up.

One thing you could do to really try to fix your issue it to purchase a music recording software such as cubase and take your song(s) and run a few through it with those higher settings that you mentioned just to see. If you don’t wanna spend the cash, I’ll pm you with my email, give me a couple tunes you like, I’ll input them at the settings you want to try and then try to email back. That way you can see if you can hear a difference and go from there. Due to our ears, it may be that rabbit you are chasing and can’t catch cause the little teapot ducks into that hole every time!

 

[biomedtechguy]

I found that my Sony STR-DA 9000ES receiver will not apply any processing to PCM signals above 48kHz/24, but it does play 96/24 and 192/24, but only in 2 channel stereo.
I playback stereo audio in "AFD" Auto Format Decode 2.1 channel so my Trinity SuperCube subwoofer can fill in the lowest frequencies below 32Hz, which is the lower limit of my Klipsch KLF-30 tower speakers. I have the low frequency roll off at 40Hz, the lowest setting, and that makes everything work better. The towers are playing in their range, the amps are not having to power the lowest frequencies, and the sub doesn't get anything over 40Hz.
I also send that " .1" LFE signal to an amp that powers my tactile transducers attached to the theater recliners.
A clarification on the name of the 2nd device I bought. WiiM makes a "Mini" streamer, I bought the "Pro" which has a few more features. There is no "mini pro".
So I have set the limit on the WiiM audio streaming device to 48/24, and I have been enjoying my music again.

 

[Xp29h]

Great to enjoy the music! We have a smart assed saying in the studio, “love the music” of course we said it sarcastically!

 

[440 PHIXX]

I heard Butch Vig talking about editing tape back in the early 90’s… what a pain in the *** that must have been.

 

[Cranky]

My ears are so shot these days that I rarely listen to music anymore. It's been weeks since my ancient Kenwood 5150 and Fisher SR 314 speakers have made any noise and to many, that's most likely what they make....

 

[Budnicks]

more my speed, not quite, I'm in the CD stage
& Cassette/CD in my 99 Dakota, I hate/can't stand the satellite radio
in the new Jeep Gladiator
(my dad doesn't even know how to turn it on too)
I just assume listen to FM radio

sorry Biomed
had to do it

 

[Takoctopus]

I buy CDs as they are dirt cheap now. Can get a whole CD for $3 shipped. Never had the need to go iTunes. Use a Fiio music player and have had great luck with it.