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Archaeological dig into my 413

HT413

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This morning I started to tear down the top end of my motor. Motor is a 1972 truck 413 that the p.o. said the owner before him rebuilt and stroked it to 452 ci., ported 906 heads, etc. this is my 1st rodeo, so I'm sure i'll have tons of stupid questions about just about everything.

So my objectives are:
1) replace the worn / stuck fuel pump pushrod and inspect cam lobe.
2) replace the rockers and shafts which were installed wrong and started wearing the shafts and rockers.
3) find out how the motor was built, tale some measurements and calc the compression ratio, etc.
4) Check out the cam and maybe make a swap.

Question: if i keep the current cam, i'd like to keep the timing unchanged. What steps do i need to take to be sure it's right on when i reassemble?

Thanks,
Dan

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A pic inside the #5 intake port. Maybe later i just might get the head off.
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My step by step as i go
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Here's my filing system for the nuts and bolts.
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I like your filing system. On your timing question. You can mark the distributor where the rotor is pointing and mark the distributor to correspond with the block.
 
someone had fond memories of a yellow jeep :eusa_think:
 
When talking timing, you have camshaft as well as ignition timing. I thought you were referring to cam timing, so just check your tining gear marks and re install at the same alignment. You can also degree in your cam, which requires a few extra tools and knowledge. I used to run a 413 in a 65 Belvedere, ran low 12 s at 5400 feet. Great running engine @13 to 1 C/R. Send us a pic of the piston tops at TDC when you get the heads off. And 452 cubic inches from a 413 block sounds odd. See if you can determine the stroke. It would normally be 3.75" in a 413 with a std bore size of 4.19". A 426 has same stroke but a 4.25" bore, a 451 has 4.375Bore.
 
Thanks for the timing advice. Well... let's just say I always knew it wasnt a stroker, even as the guy was telling me. Just didnt add up. The numbers, like you said, Gary. on top of that, it still has the original truck balancer. if it were a stroker kit i'd think they'd use another. Also, it runs strong, tears up 12" wide ET Streets through 1st and into 2nd but never left the line like a freight train, ya know? Plus the price i got the car at was probably right the high end of a stroker build.

Well what i found... i just have to laugh.

BEHOLD: the only stock RV short block paired with a 4000 stall converter.

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Soup anyone?

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That one intake valve looks like it's sunk into the valve seat a good bit. I bet that guide is bad. Yeah, I'd say she's sittin at like 6.9:1 LOL
 
That one intake valve looks like it's sunk into the valve seat a good bit. I bet that guide is bad. Yeah, I'd say she's sittin at like 6.9:1 LOL

Right about 0.060 in the hole lol. I think I'll be in the market for a solid 440 short block here in a short while.
 
I have an extra pair of 516 heads. They still have the smaller exhaust valve but they are ready to bolt on otherwise.
 
someone had fond memories of a yellow jeep :eusa_think:

Yessir. loved that jeep. Rebuilt it from the ground up, spent an entire summer under her rebuilding the underside. About gave the damn thing away 15 years ago and boy do i regret it.
 
Are you going to change the pistons? If so, you might consider a 440 block. Pistons are more available for that one. There is a place in Denver that has rebuild kits for a 413. You want pistons with a compression height of 2.067 I believe. That will get you to around .015" below deck.
 
Fuel pump pushrod: 2.925" long. Nice. Love to think it's just very old, but with the new cam... prob a new problem.

Measured the cam lift and roughed the duration. Looks like this comp cam or something close. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-cl23-223-4 Looks like its basically brand new, barely any pattern on the lobes and just a faint wear pattern on the lifters, nice and even on em all. Fuel pump lobe looks perfect.

Guess i'll pull the pan and see if there's any metal. Changed the oil recently and there wasnt any but better safe than sorry.

Anyone have a recommendation on the fuel pump pushrod? There appear to be hardened steel ends, bronze ends and even the comp cams blended carbon polymer with a cromoly tip or a bronze tip. Any thoghts?

Was thinkin- that low compression is beggin to be BLOWN. Something to think about anyway.
 
Call Comp on the pushrod. They can tell you for sure which one is right. I like the cam. I would stick with it, even if you get compression raised. It will work good either way. Anyway, along the lines of raising compression, check these out.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Chrys...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27b2b7eeba&vxp=mtr

That's for rings and all. I'm floored. Evidently somebody picked up and ran with an affordable piston for the 413. I'm astonished. If you can plug that compression height into a compression calculator and see how much it would raise it. A good bit I bet. and your cam isn't too radical to worry about valve to piston clearance either.

Nevermind. I did it. If you mill the heads to 80 ccs and run the thin head gasket (.021) you can get 9.3:1 with that piston! That's pretty impressive. You could make some real power there.
 
Huh. I'll be calling them Monday 1st thing. Thank you, rusty, I might just get this thing straightened out after all.

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Apparently they're made by Kanter, which happens to be 30 minutes from me in Boonton, NJ.
 
Well how about that? I never in this world wouldda thought anybody wouldda made an affordable piston for the 413. Whatchyoo reckon? lol
 
What do you think of this? Custom ventilation.

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Damn. They are pretty much all like that under the timing cover.......but that area around the cam bearing looks strange. Did you get the fuel pump rod out?
 
Oh, yeah, forgot to say. Got the fuel pump pushrod out - measured 2.925" in length and was mushroomed and chipped. Pretty roughed up. Cam was perfect. I'm thinking this is a recent problem, because at an OEM length of 3.22", the pushrod was 0.295" too short. with a fuel lobe lift of 0.3" (if i recall), the car wouldnt have run at all, yet all summer it ran fine.

So the metal is in the motor. Agree?
 
Well......sorta. I would be worried if it was higher up say a rocker arm spewin metal or some such. But where it is......I think any metal would fall into the pan. Anything that got sucked up in the pickup would go to the filter first. You might be ok in that respect.
 
Good news is the Comp Cams rep said the cam is a cast cam and is completely compatible with the oem push rod. Maybe it's an old problem after all. Have a new pushrod and those mancini hard chrome rocker shafts and some gaskets arriving here in a few days.
 
I thought that was the case, but I was not sure so I didn't say. And just so you know, I looked at my 383 block in the same area as your front cam bearing area. Mine does not expose as much cam bearing as yours.....BUT, it is VERY similar, so I suspect that's normal. I wouldn't think anything of it. Run the piss out of it.
 
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