Back up light switch operating lever missing- column shift

67 joe dirt

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Is there a way to test the switch out of the car I purchased one from ebay said it tested good but not working I can jump over the plug and the reverse lights come on thanks
 

67 joe dirt

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I tried that with a cheapo meter couldn't read any ohms or continuity when I moved the switch
 

Billccm

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It only closes the circuit at a certain position. Spray some contact cleaner that is safe for plastics to clean the contacts. My personal favorite is DeOxIt.
 

Durandal25

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OMG.....I need a PIN. Holy crap, we need a dude to make some of these suckers.......what a goofy design.
 

closer9

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If somebody has a good original pin, I would be willing to create a CAD model for 3D printing. It could also be machined out of nylon. There are several places online that will print or machine one for you. I could print them on my FDM, but I think STL would be more robust.

That is assuming there are enough folks wanting plastic. I'm happy with my SS carb stud. Easy to install, and fairly certain it would pop out easy enough in an accident if the column collapsed.
 

Billccm

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I'd be interested in a good nylon replacement.
 

closer9

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For those interested, here is what I used.

20210828_154952.jpg 20210828_154843.jpg
 

JonR

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Old thread brought up again................this IS one of my "minor" problems to fix on the 66 Coronet I just bought. The shop manual says "snap it off" during disassembly and "snap it onto the lug" during assembly??????

I was thinking of trying to put a bolt or stud if it could be threaded into the hole I can feel with my finger. I'm amazed to see several people with the problem. So, reading above, I need a 1/4"-28 stud that is 1.5 inches long. If it threads in, I think I can do it without taking out the column - I can reach it pretty well. How was the jam nut used? Could you even use a plain bolt of the right length with the head on it? I'm not exactly clear. I would love to solve this problem but not going to remove the column. Thank you.

Oh, now I see the pic above......missed it earlier. Thank you. Could you screw the stud in until it bottoms or will it interfere with something in the column.

Jon
 
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Durandal25

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The plastic stud that goes in that hole is impossible to find. I actually have a OEM stud….but it’s not worth using it. I made a stud and used a few lock nuts to mount it. You will need to remove the column to make this happen.
 

closer9

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I was able to install a threaded stud without removing the column, but my heater box is out, so that probably helps.
 

JonR

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I was able to install a threaded stud without removing the column, but my heater box is out, so that probably helps.
You mention the heater box but in my 66 Coronet the switch is not down near the firewall but actually about straight up from the bottom edge of the lower dash panel and fairly easy to reach with my left hand. I'll try the stud approach if I can. Are you sure it is a 28 thread stud? That seems awfully fine threaded. Does it actually screw right in? Thank you for the help.
 

closer9

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Yes, you'll need the fine thread since it's fairly thin material. It will not thread right in. I had to use jam nuts and a wrench.
 

JonR

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Yes, you'll need the fine thread since it's fairly thin material. It will not thread right in. I had to use jam nuts and a wrench.
Maybe I could use a bolt with a head on it if I can find one, or the jam nuts. Thanks again. It's worth a try. My back up plan, so to speak, is to just put a small SPST surface mount switch just under the left front dash. Then I can at least make them work manually when I back up.
 

closer9

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My only concern with an actual bolt is whether or not the head will clear the switch housing and then would it align/adjust correctly if the head was hitting the switch vs the shaft.

Just jam two nuts on the top and remove them when done.
 
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