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Ballast Resistor on our 69 GTX - Requesting Feedback

oldchevelle541

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Greetings, i was bored today because it was 15F outside and in the garage but I was curious to check the health of my Ballast Resistor. See photos. It appears with wires removed and multimeter set to 200 on the Ohms dial it was reading 2.2. This is a reading at 15F. Opinions appreciated.

Ballast 1.jpg


Ballast 2.jpg
 
It has resistance, so it’s good….but still carry a spare in your trunk. Someone else might know what the specific resistance “should” be
 
Since it’s an easy removal just remove the resistor from the vehicle and check indoors. I would also recommend using alligator clips instead of probes and ensure you check your leads and then zero out the meter. They do make temperature compensating milli ohm meters, but they are pricey.
 
Measuring low resistance values with a budget multimeter are more challenging. As Dadsbee mentioned, touch the leads of the meter together and make sure you have 0 Ohms for the reading.

I’d also recommend cleaning the terminals of the ballast resistor and the meter wire ends with something like a fine steel wool to ensure there is no oxidation causing resistance you could be measuring. Just a little oxidation can shift things at small resistance values.
 
Verified leads together read 0.0 ?
Totally agree....and by the looks of your multimeter - it was less than $100 ??? (I have a couple that look similar, and they are cheap, but not accurate)

I have a Fluke which is better than most and cost around $1,000 - and even then I don't trust readings of such low values - close but not necessarily accurate. The only comfort you can take from readings in that range is by doing comparisons with other similar resistances.
 
I just removed my B.R. and did an inspection. Car still ran but I had a funny feeling so I took it off. It looks on the back side (right side) something may have been getting hot. Notice dark color. Since I had it off I made a quick trip to Advance Auto and purchased part RUA1036 for $18.00 and installed it. I will keep my eye out for an NOS one in the future. I will keep the old as an emergency spare.

Ballast 3.jpg


Ballast 4.jpg


ballast 5.jpg
 
Yep check it in a warmer environment. Keep in mind that when you start your car, the resistor is electrically bypassed by the ignition switch while cranking. As soon as you release the key to the run position the resistor is in series with the coil and will naturally heat up from the current draw of the coil. And yes, always carry a spare as they do fail.
 
Totally agree....and by the looks of your multimeter - it was less than $100 ??? (I have a couple that look similar, and they are cheap, but not accurate)

I have a Fluke which is better than most and cost around $1,000 - and even then I don't trust readings of such low values - close but not necessarily accurate. The only comfort you can take from readings in that range is by doing comparisons with other similar resistances.
Actually no need for high level multimeter for classics auto use, but measuring the default resistance between leads should be quite enough.

Sometimes spinning the leads inserted on multimeter will give a better measurement.

I have found these kind of multimeters within a 0.4~1 ohm default offset reading. If this is considered, is enough for amateur/non-pro testings
 
Greetings, i was bored today because it was 15F outside and in the garage but I was curious to check the health of my Ballast Resistor. See photos. It appears with wires removed and multimeter set to 200 on the Ohms dial it was reading 2.2. This is a reading at 15F. Opinions appreciated.

View attachment 1987587

View attachment 1987588


As mentioned, test lead resistance or poor probe connection at the terminal is adding to the ballast resistor reading. The "830" based Cen-Tech meter (part number 90899, or similar) in the picture, has adequate measuring ability for a ballast resistor measurement, but the test leads, and their connection to the meter jacks can be problematic high resistance points.

Temperature has an effect on the resistance, and should be measured at 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit (21-27 degrees Celsius). The resistance is lower at lower temperatures than the nominal rating, and increases as the resistor heats up.


The following might be helpful:


Measuring a Ballast Resistor

The following procedures show the basic method of measuring a low resistance value ballast resistor with a digital multimeter (DMM) or analog volt-ohm-milliameter (VOM) using a two wire measurement method.

The ballast resistor being measured is a Chrysler part number 2095501, which was used on 1960 - 1972 point ignition systems. The specification nominal value of this resistor is 0.55 ohm, with an acceptable resistance range of 0.5 - 0.6 ohm at 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit (21-27 degrees Celsius). This resistor is usually referenced as 0.5 ohm, and original Chrysler resistors in good condition typically measure closer to 0.5 ohm than the nominal value.

When measuring low resistances, including ballast resistors, account for the resistance of the test leads connected to the measuring device. This can be done by shorting the leads together, noting the resistance, and subtracting it from the measurement readings, or use the meter's relative setting (if equipped) similarly with the lead shorting, or use a meter that measures conductance and convert accordingly, or use a four wire ohms measurement setup with the appropriate device. An analog meter can also be used but resolution might be lacking on the lower resistance. The same test lead considerations hold true. Also because the analog meter has to drive the needle, a weak battery can hamper the measurement.

The following images show a Fluke 27 DMM and a Simpson 260 Series 7PM VOM being used to measure the Chrysler 2095501 resistor.

Test conditions: Temperature = 72 degrees Fahrenheit, Relative Humidity = 30%.

Resistor to be measured:
1769992308727.jpeg


Checking with a Digital Meter


Checking test lead resistance:

Ensure that all connections are clean and tight, and the test probe tips are making good contact.

NOTE: If lead resistance is over 1 ohm, the test leads should be replaced with better leads.

Set the meter on the lowest resistance scale or allow autoranging if the meter supports it.

Any number measured here is to be subtracted from subsequent measurements, or the meter zeroed to remove it. This meter has a relative function, “REL”, which can be used to “zero” the test leads so subtraction is not required. In this case, my lead resistance is lower than the resolution of the meter (< 0.1 ohm), so no further zero or tracking of the lead resistance is needed.
1769992308741.jpeg


Measuring the resistance:

Ensure that all connections are clean and tight, and the test probe tips are making good contact.

In this case, the resistor is measuring 0.5 ohm, and there is no test lead resistance for which to account.
1769992308753.jpeg





Checking with an Analog Meter


Checking or Setting Meter Zero:

Analog meters must have the mechanical zero checked and set depending on the meter and its position.


Setting mechanical zero:

Position the meter as it will be used for measurements. Test leads are not used for this check/setting.

Ensure the meter needle is on the zero mark at the bottom of the scale. If needed, use the mechanical zero adjustment to center the needle at the bottom of the scale.
1769992308762.jpeg



Checking and zeroing test lead resistance:

Ensure the VOM has a good battery. The meter has to drive the test current through the resistor being tested as well as drive the needle. A weak battery might not allow the meter to electrically zero, leading to erroneous readings.

Ensure that all connections are clean and tight, and the test probe tips are making good contact.

NOTE: If lead resistance cannot be zeroed and the battery is good, the test leads should be replaced with better leads.

Set the meter on the lowest resistance range. In this case, “Rx1”.

Use the “ohms adjust” or “zero adjust” to electrically zero the meter needle at zero with the leads connected together.
1769992308773.jpeg



Measuring the resistance:

Ensure that all connections are clean and tight, and the test probe tips are making good contact.

With the meter still on the lowest resistance range as previously set, measure the resistance.

In this case, the resistor is measuring 0.5 ohm, and there is no test lead resistance for which to account due to the previous zeroing of the meter.

NOTE: The resolution at the far end of the scale is not as good as the digital meter in this case with this meter, but is usable. If using a milliohmmeter, with extended range, a better measurement is possible.

1769992308789.jpeg


1769992308805.jpeg




Optional Checking of the Meter


Checking the Meter with a Higher Standard:

If there is a question of meter accuracy, and if the equipment is available, check the meter against a known standard. In this case, I am double checking my meter at 1.00 ohm as verification, using my General Radio 1433M Decade Resistance:
1769992308820.jpeg


In the absence of a higher standard, the meter can still be cross checked measuring another known resistor or comparison to another known good meter.


With more resolution, the more precise value of the ballast resistor measured here is 0.5277 ohms as measured in my lab using a four-wire method, as shown in the following image:
1769999504045.jpeg



Excerpted from “Measuring Ballast Resistors”, Gary Lewallen, aka. Vaanth

For more information about Chrysler’s electronic ignition, including ballast resistors, and their use with other components, refer to
Chrysler Electronic Ignition


 
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Thanks Vaanth, Good detail and appreciated. I think some believe I should have left things alone but with a 57 year old part I may have been on borrowed time especially seeing that there was discoloring on the backside. Original parts don't last forever. As I said in my posts the original will be kept as a spare and I will see if there is a NOS one out there but unfortunately in many cases sellers over price their NOS.
 
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