Separate names with a comma.
anybody had a serious bell housing run out and what were the effects?
No, it has always been very good for me. But the effects are hard clutch action and possible chatter. If the bell is t straight, then the trans isn’t straight. Then it can move the friction disc over to much. If serious enough and the trans actually still slides in, the inoutshaft is under pressure being bent. Trans failure will happen. But you know that something is really messed up before hand. If it is super bad, you wdon’t lol not get the trans into the pilot bearing and bolt up to the bell.
Just set mine up. I was .010 out. Bought some Robbmac offset dowels in .007 and got it to .003 runout.
I set my runout. I had a bellhousing on it before that was not checked & I had some vibration issues & the block dowels were weirdly worn. I think the vibration may have loosened the bellhousing block bolts, letting the transmission "walk" but I can't swear to it. I had some side-wear on the pilot bushing too. All things you'd expect.
When I did my 4 speed conversion, I bought a used bellhousing that looked perfect. Jamie Passon did the install for me. He checked the bell and said it was so off that he couldn't use it. Had to get another one.
Put a Lakewood blow shield on, .013 out. Offset bushings got it down to .003.
How bout the face? Need to make sure that's good too.
Almost never had one that was perfect. Always have to buy the offset dowels to get it corrected. Those Lakewood scatter shields are the worst that I have seem.
I couldn't get my transmission out of the bell housing without a wedge and a hammer. I am not sure, but I think I was about .012 out. Who knows how the guy befor me even got it together. Offset dowels got me to .003". Clutch effort is noticable less now.
I have a friend with a 383 4spd super b we rebuilt the engine (stock) and everything was running smooth, in fact I was surprised it was so smooth. he took the tranny and bell housing out to repair a trans leak and now it vibrates so bad I wouldn't drive it. got me stumped!
Funny, I had the same problem when I put mine back together. I took the clutch and pressure plate back to Summit for an exchange. I also replaced the flywheel and pressure plate bolts and made sure that they were torqued to the proper spec. It still vibrated like a son of a bitch. My buddy suggested that it might be the flywheel even though it was re-surfaced at a local reputable shop. I reluctantly bought another flywheel and the vibration went away. I don't know?
I know I’m old, but I never heard of this problem 40+yrs ago; course I’m into 727’s. There surely weren’t offset dowels long ago? (are we talking QC in this day and age?)
I've never had an issue either oldbee and been putting them in and out for 40 years. However.. it is in the 1969 service manual about "dialing in" the bellhousing.
this car had the stock flywheel resurfaced and initially drove good. the original bell housing got broke so another '69 bell was found and used during first running. something went goofy when the trans and bell were taken off and then reinstalled.
An automatic trans case should be checked too, especially if you plan on racing the car. I've pulled stuff apart and found plenty of crud between the mounting faces and these things were not that old at the time. There was always someone modifying newer cars back then just like now but back then, there were way more shade tree/junk yard builders. Makes ya wonder sometimes lol. My first rent house had an oversized 1 car garage but the floor was so cracked up that there was no way to make an engine crane roll so a tree was used to pull out a couple of engines until we got the garage braced up good enough to hang a chain fall. Found out pretty fast not to look up to make sure the limb was going to hold without wearing some kind of eye protection!
Worst I've seen was last spring, an iron one that was welded. It was .060 out. Ultimately I got it within .010 and the car drives well. It's smoothness and effort that get worse when things are out. Very common issue and should be done on every stick combo out there. Autos are more forgiving, but as stated - for racing the case you're using should be aligned too.
this poor old car has been thru some crap thru the years. the bell housing this fellow bought to replace the original may have had issues. the thing vibrates terrible as it's revved up. any ideas are appreciated.
When does the vibration come on?
I have always heard that to much run-out will make your transmission jump out of gear...messes up your input shaft alignment. And there was that happening often , before we found out about checking the bell house and offset dowels........................MO
from off idle and gets worse as rpm is raised.